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ScottP
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2002 - 05:24 pm: | 
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If I ever meet the guy in that Honda...
A wonderful fellow decided that he would make a U-Turn directly in from of me today, I got stopped, but not before screwing something up. My brakes were on a short list to get replaced, but this has cranked the schedule up a bit. It seems the jerk of the antilock was enough to dislodge what was left of the pad, and I ended up with steel on steel. It looks as if Pads and Rotors are going to do it though. I'm about to head off to the store to buy the parts, Advance can have them here early tommorow morning. Is there anything else I'm going to need? Any seals or ANYTHING??? I've never had the rotors off the rover before, and I've got to drive out of town Thanksgiving morning.
BTW, any of you in Charlotte... blue 80's honda Civic on Harris Blvd. with a missing left headlight... get him for me. |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2002 - 05:42 pm: |
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pads - from your local parts' store, you will likely end up with semimetallics. they will work okay, but your chances of squealing brakes will go up a lot (in the longer run, with ruined rotors).
it is a piece of cake to do anything on rover's brakes; taking the wheel off and putting it back on comprise about 80% of time it takes to replace the pads. Rotors are a bigger PITA - you'll have to undo the hub nuts (52mm, or 2 1/16"), pull the hubs (trying not to ruin the seals in process), unbolt the rotors from the hubs (1/2" 12-point, IIRC), bolt on new rotors, and put the crap back together. nothing difficult, just more involved.
i'd say, for a quick Thanksgiving run, you can leave your rotors - you may be even lucky enough not to have any brake issues afterwards.
peter |
ed petrush (Exp)
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2002 - 05:49 pm: |
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my advice (worth 2 cents) is to buy LR pads and rotors.. the aftermarket stuff (unless you buy high performance stuff) never lasts.. they basically make the brake pads out of a harder compound than the actual rotors and you will notice yourself eating up rotors and the brake pads are still 100%.
No other parts really needed.. might be good to use some antiseize ont the slides & bolts.
Make sure not to compress the calipers like you might do with a nonabs brake system. To colapse the calipers to fit new pads and rotors, crack the bleeder and do it that way.. will take you another 30 min to rebleed the system but its worth is. the abs system doesn't like the back pressure. |
ScottP
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2002 - 10:13 pm: |
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With the shape my left front rotor is in right now, I'm a little too worried to drive even the 55 miles home for Thansgiving. It's gouged real good, and the black brake dust collecting on the wheel turned to a fine silver powder somewhere on the ride home. Advance had to order anything Rover, so it will be here in the morning. I went ahead and got Bendix parts, for $58 per rotor, and $41.29 for the Bendix pads. I figure these have to be pretty close to OEM. Who actually makes the Rover OEM stuff anyway? |
trevor griffiths (Trevorgriffiths)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 08:55 am: |
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In my opinion, if you are under a time constraint and haven't done the rotors before, it would make sense to just throw in the pads. The new pads will remove the sharp edges from the grooves in the rotor soon enough, but will also transfer that metal to the pads.
If you are going to go ahead,there is a drive member gasket p/n 571752, hub seal FTC4785, bearings are set 37 from most parts stores, don't miss the shim and the thrust washer when you remove the outer circlip, use blue loctite on the bolts securing the drive flange as well as the caliper, and definetly open the bleeders and push the fluid out instead of backwards. look for rust on the caliper pistons-if they are rusty and you push them back in, you could damage caliper seals creating a brake fluid leak. Other than that, Happy Thanksgiving and have a safe trip. |
ScottP
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 02:03 pm: |
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AHHHHHH!
The drivers side rotor was almost cut in two, I'm gonna have to change it. It seems the inner pad lost it's "padding" completely. The is still plenty on the outside pad. It must have broken loose in the "incident".
I've got the rotor/hub off, but can't for the life of me figure out how to seperate the rotor from the hub/bearing housing. The "hub" is on the outside, and the part with the seal is on the inside of the rotor, I removed the bolts that go through the rotor, but can't seem to get the other parts seperated.
Any help??? |
ScottP
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 02:17 pm: |
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I've beat it until I'm blue in the face, but it doesn't seem to want to budge... am I missing something?
I'm in a time crunch, and I'm getting frustrated! |
ScottP
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 03:44 pm: |
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I don't mean to be a pest... but I'm about to start breaking things here!
Anybody? |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 04:05 pm: |
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Dominik Chrzan (Dominik)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 04:11 pm: |
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after removing the 5 bolts, it should come apart.
if not, a large hammer and, as i found, name calling, are very influential.
dom
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Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 04:33 pm: |
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if I were you, I'd beat the living shit out of the rotor since it's already fubared.
CHECK YOUR PADS BEFORE YOU HEAR THE SCREECH! |
ScottP
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 05:35 pm: |
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I don't think I own a big enough hammer, but I've got a friend who specializes in breaking stuff coming over later.
My brakes actually weren't even worn out yet, it seems I broke one. I believe they were cheaper aftermarkets, they were on there when I got the truck a couple of months ago.
Thanks for all the help, it seems the proper course of action here is to HIT IT HARDER!
ScottP |
Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 05:44 pm: |
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Scott,
I know this is a different application, as my truck is a DII, but when my rotors were hard to seperate from the axle (the DII rotor is not behind anything) I hit it with a 12 pound rubber coated lead diving weight. Broke it right off those bolts. Worked like a charm. |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 05:47 pm: |
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don't forget about heat, either. a little torch action applied to the rotor might be the ticket. |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Thursday, November 28, 2002 - 08:55 am: |
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I'm not sure about the Disco since I've not replaced the rotors, but on every other vehicle I've worked on, there usually two pre-threaded holes in either the disk or the hub. These holes are used to push the hub and the disk apart. You thread in one bolt in each hole and then turn one bolt 1/2 turn, and then the other the same amount.
If there are no holes, I'd re-thread two bolts back into the hub. I'd thread them back in to about 90%. I'd heat up the area with a torch and then I'd tap on the bolts with a big punch. The hub has to be driven straight off, not at an angle.
Best of luck in your efforts.
Thanks,
Mike B. |
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