| Author |
Message |
    
Ojia
| | Posted on Thursday, November 28, 2002 - 11:08 pm: | 
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I have a '01 with ACE with 38,000 miles. Is this the right time to have it replaced? What signs should I be looking for? |
Eric Pena (Evalp)
| | Posted on Friday, November 29, 2002 - 12:47 am: |
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Well, you would need to have a look at the pads. If you have got 38k on them I would probably say there close to being do. I have 39 on mine and replaced them last summer. Some brake shops will look at them for you for free. I would say 1/8th of an inch left is gettin low. |
streak
| | Posted on Friday, November 29, 2002 - 11:46 am: |
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38000 miles is doing really well, specially for the fronts. We never get anywhere close to that in our DII V8 Auto. Maybe diferent compounds used in this part of the world.
Have them checked, the last thing you want is to have them scratch the discs (I think you guys call them rotors).
I check them in place with the wheels on, you get used to how they look when new comapred to replacement time.
First signs are a grinding type noise coming from one of the wheels, you really want to try and avoid this situation.
www.worst4x4.freeservers.com |
mongo
| | Posted on Friday, November 29, 2002 - 12:13 pm: |
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I've got 38k on mine and they are fine...just checked them when I changed to my new tires...
Frank
2001 SD
not even close to stock |
Greggo
| | Posted on Friday, November 29, 2002 - 05:23 pm: |
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Not fair....
24K on the fronts
30K on the backs....
And just changed the backs yesterday. Drivers side was just scraping the rivet on the tension spring and pass. side was 1mm off.
Timed it JUST RIGHT...
LR told me on my 22K service that I needed to change out my rotors because they were undersized... you know... 'cause the pads wore out the rotors... right...... They say that the rotors cannot be turned.
I've heard from some brake shop guys that the rotors don't need turning unless there are deep gouges from metal/metal contact or if they are warped... I had none of the above, so I just put the pads on and away we gooooo....
BTW... it is true, the rears take more time to lift the truck and r/r the tires than the brake operation... very cool! |
Steve Fesperman
| | Posted on Sunday, December 01, 2002 - 12:08 pm: |
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Posted awhile back for DII:
Rotor Min Thickness: 22.0mm front, 11.7mm rear
Minimum pad: 2.0mm
I replaced rear pads at 32K and fronts at 38K. Both had 2.5mm of pad at the time of replacment.
--Steve |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Sunday, December 01, 2002 - 03:51 pm: |
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Replaced my front and rear pads and rotors at 40k. It's easy to do yourself and it will save you a bundle. |
phil
| | Posted on Sunday, December 01, 2002 - 09:20 pm: |
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I just turned 50k in my 99 disco II, did rears at 44k, fronts still ok. Dealer recommended them be changed at 35k as they were worn out. |
greggo
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 02:13 pm: |
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I guess I drive a little harder...
Al, why did you change your rotors?
Did you go a little too far??? |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 02:23 pm: |
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The front rotors were okay but since I was at it I figured I would change them anyway. I could have pulled another 8k (give or take) out of them. The rear rotors were shot. Brakes are something I don't like to take chances on and for the record I also run 265/75's. |
Greg Davis (Gregdavis)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 02:42 pm: |
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I got 39K out of mine. Replaced with pads from Nathan @ Discount Rovers. No squeaks and hardly any dust. Holding up very well after 13K miles. |
Greggo
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 04:57 pm: |
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Al...
You changed the pads AND the rotors?
Or just the Pads? it sounds by your last post that it was a 'Pad' job on the front... but why were the rear rotors shot? |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 05:01 pm: |
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I did both pads and rotors all at the same time on all four corners at 40k miles. I changed the front rotors since I was already messing with it and didn't feel like doing the same job again in a few thousand miles. As I said, I don't like to play around and take chances with the brakes. The rear rotors were very grouved and there isn't much meat on them to turn them. Many cars out there are putting in rotors that need to be changed almost as often as the pads. My guess is to lower unsprung weight, save a little on gas or just to make a few extra dollars on parts. |
Greggo
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 05:20 pm: |
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Can't even imagine changing rotors at each (or every other) pad change....
Changing the pads is so simple on the rears... How tough is it to change the rotors (both front and rears)? Is it 'as easy'?
I've heard that the groving is no big deal and that the brake shops have you turn the rotors because it makes a wear item out of them.... |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 06:03 pm: |
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Greg - Here's some information on the rotor thickness for the Disco II
Rear New -- 12.5 - 12.7 mm
Rear service limit -- 11.7 mm
As you can see it won't take much in the rear to require new rotors.
The Front are...
Front New -- 24.9 - 25.1 mm
Front service limit -- 22.0 mm
Now add some bigger tires and sand/mud and heavy loads and you have rotors that wear quick.
But I'm sure Kyle will have his 2 cents  |
Rich Lee
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 10:34 pm: |
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I just replaced all four pad sets on our recently-purchased used 2000 D2 that had about 26,000 miles of Flatland driving on it. The pads had 3mm to 5mm of material left on them. I suspect the rear pads wear faster on the ETC cars because they are also applied during hard accelleration. They are also smaller than the Rear pads on a D1, which usually last about twice as long as the fronts.
The car is now driven 1 to 3 times a day up and down some of the steepest curvy roads in the SF bay area (2500' to 3000'of elevation change with each trip). I don't expect these pads to last more than a year in our situation.
Unlike the D1, replacing the front rotors on a D2 do not require taking apart the outer hub bearing and re-greasing/re-adjusting it. Simply a large impact phillips screwdriver does the job. That is also why these vented rotors are les expensive than the solid ones for the D1.
The life of your pads and rotors is really a function of how often and how hard you apply your brakes. Most of you "flatlanders" will get twice the life out of yours that I will out of mine.
BTW, for my situation, Kevlar pads suck! They are noisy, stink to high heaven when hot and lasted less than half as long as the OEM pads (still the best). They took too long to "bed-in" and only briefly rewardeded with slightly less pedal effort during repeated hard braking. They didn't stop any faster and did not "fade" any less than the OEM in severe braking (which is to say, no significant fade at all) they just smelled horrible in the process. As always, YMMV.
Happy stopping,
Rich |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 10:51 pm: |
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"I suspect the rear pads wear faster on the ETC cars because they are also applied during hard accelleration."
The ETC shouldn't kick in under hard accelleration. |
Rich Lee
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 04, 2002 - 01:11 am: |
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Al,
My ETC light comes on, and I can feel it working every time I have to exit my gravel driveway in a hurry to keep from getting "centerpunched" by idiots racing around the nearby blind curve on their rice rockets. I know it is limiting rear wheelspin, as the D2 is the only Land Rover that doesn't "scratch out" during this manouver. The worst offender is the 69' Mercedes 300 SEL 6.3 with 434 ft.lbs of torque, "Stuttgart Locker" diff and non-sticky tires. To aptly quote Jim Carey...."ssssmokin!"
PS. Anyone want to buy this car? A real sleeper for not a lot of money. |
Ojia
| | Posted on Thursday, December 05, 2002 - 05:22 pm: |
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I dont know why you guys replace them rotors so soon. Just had mine checked at the local LR dealer yesterday. At 38,000 miles, the pads have 60-70% remaining. Amazing heh?
I asked the guy why the HP tires wear so funny, they're cupping unevenly and makes loud noise on the road. He recommends rotating them at every 7,000 miles - and recommend a set of Michellins for my next replacement. I asked him about the Pirellis, he told me to go with the Michelins - anyone have any opinions on this? |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 05, 2002 - 08:04 pm: |
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second the Michelins.
Rich,
have you considered downshifting manually when you go downhill?
peter |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 05, 2002 - 08:30 pm: |
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Just put Scorpion AT's on my D2 and FJ 40 two weeks ago...that makes three sets of Pirelli's counting the FJ 62. Thanks to mother nature today dumping 8 or so inches of snow on me, I was able to do the test of tests...will the D2 slide sideways off the driveway (long, steep and slightly off camber) as it did consistently with those wonderful noisy Michelins that come on it ? Well, it came straight down the driveway no ABS fluttering, no sideways slide, no sitting there helplessly watching and listening to all this wonderous technology crash and burn...re your brakes do you do a lot of highway driving ? My rear pads and rotors were toast at 30K. |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 05, 2002 - 08:35 pm: |
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how old were your michelins?
peter |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Friday, December 06, 2002 - 12:22 pm: |
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Peter,
Picked the truck up new in Sept. 99. After @ 10k the noise arrived. Never did hold on the driveway in winter. I suppose a more aggresive treaded Michelin would have kept it on the driveway. But the FJ 62 is on its second set of scorpion AT's was happy with them so thats why the D2 and FJ 40 got them on. |
Greg P. (Gparrish)
| | Posted on Friday, December 06, 2002 - 12:30 pm: |
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I actually replaced my pads at 14k miles. They were squeeling, so I went ahead and swapped in new LR pads. I estimate they were about 3/5's worn. Probably could have gone further, but the squeeling was bad. I will probably be doing them and rotors again at 30k, but I brake hard.
gp |
Rich Lee
| | Posted on Saturday, December 07, 2002 - 02:02 pm: |
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Peter,
I DO use lower gears (manually) downhill. My driveway requires 1st gear and much of the paved descent is in 2nd and occasionally 1st (sport mode up n' down). The hills average 7 to 8.5% with sections as steep as 25%.
I agree as well on the Michelin XPCs For someone who does 80% or more on road OR little deep mud. They are better than the Goodyear HPs on-road, and do extremely well in rock & sand. I used the 255/65-16s on our D1 for several years until I needed a more Mongo tire.
The main reason I went with the Yokohama Geolander AT+ IIs on our D2 is cost ($80 each vs. $165 for the XPCs) and I wanted a slightly larger tire with a little better mud performance. I hope they do as well as the Pirelli Scorpion ATs would.
PS. If you are buying OEM pads from the dealer, bring by a small plastic container (or doubled zip-loc bags) and ask them if you could have a shot of their anti-squeal grease (I think it is actually a Mercedes benz product). Rub a little on the back of the pads and it significantly reduces squeal, some times for the life of the pad (which isn't very long in our case).
Any takers on the Mercedes? |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Saturday, December 07, 2002 - 02:27 pm: |
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Rich, the D2 OEM pads have an anti-squeal pad on the back of the brake pads. I didn't use any grease and I've been squeal free for the last 8k miles. |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Monday, December 09, 2002 - 12:15 pm: |
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Rich,
I bought a tube of this grease from a Mercedes shop (was $24 or so) to fight the bad squeal on my range rover. Guess what, it didn't help. Genuine pads did.
peter |
Rich Lee
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2002 - 04:32 am: |
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Peter,
That's interesting. OEM (AP Lockheed) pads have always been my favorite, for all our Rovers.
Better than Mintex
Better than Beck Arnley
Better than Ferodo
Better than Raybestos
Better than the Kevlars I bought from DAP.
However, the OEMs were always squeelers, especially the rears, on the 91 Rangie (which usually got OEM pads). All other pads squealed even worse. Then I went with the greasy MB stuff. Now they squeal no more.
I would agree that the best place to start is with OEM pads, then go with the grease, if need-be. |
Greggo
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2002 - 11:17 am: |
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Hey...
Aren't the Ferodo's OEM's in a plain box?
That is what I've always heard....
And... with the anti-squeal on the rear of the pads, are you still greasing them up? |
Greg P. (Gparrish)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 10, 2002 - 11:22 am: |
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Greggo,
I recently replaced my pads with original pads ordered from Rover Connection. They came in plain white boxes with the Land Rover part sticker on the box, as well as some Green Land Rover printing on the boxes. The pads had a part number on them that started with FER something or another.
I didn't write the number down, but the part number made me immediately think that the Land Rover original pads could be made by Ferodo. May be wrong though. Could just have been coincidence. |
Rich Lee
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 01:51 am: |
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Greggo,
I believe both AP Lockheed and Ferodo are considered by several suppliers to be OEM, and are possibly sold as OEM through some LR dealers. All the pads I have bought from dealers in N. Calif have been AP Lockheed. The Ferodos probably come closest to the AP Lockheeds in terms of good, no-fade, minimal squeal braking, and are a damn sight better than Mintex, which some mail order places also refer to as "OEM". If they come boxed with all of the retaining hardware (springs, clips, pins, bolts or whatever), then they are more likely to be "OEM". If they work well for you, then that is all that really matters.
All of the OEM pads I have bought have come with anti-squeal "padding" on the back of them. It will do, but sometimes it is just not enough and then I get out the "grease". |
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