| Author |
Message |
    
Greg Davis (Gregdavis)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 01:17 pm: | 
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Well, as luck would have it, seven weeks after my warranty has expired my DII has developed its first leak. It's a very slow seeping leak, so it's not REAL urgent, but will need addressing. The leak appears to be coming from behind the crank pulley. Can this be repaired at home(driveway), or is it best left to the "pros" (dealer)? Can you get to it by just removing the crank pulley, or does the pan and front cover have to come off as well? |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 02:05 pm: |
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No big deal-I'm preparing to do it myself in the days to come.
I thought I had a bigger problem and when I discovered it was the front crank seal, I thought to myself, that it ought to be possible to replace without much disassembly. Lo and behold, the workshop manual even gives instructions on doing it wihtout much disassembly beyond removing the dampener.
In the shadow of my idol, Bluegill, I will endeavor to take many photos (if he hasn't already) for the edification of all!
Peace,
Paul |
Greg Davis (Gregdavis)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 02:40 pm: |
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Paul, if we ever meet the next round's on me!  |
Jason Johnson (Discomojo)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 05:53 pm: |
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Did my front crank seal this summer. A few things to help before you get started (FWIW). Make sure you have the right sized socket as it's a little larger than some sets include. Also, remove the transmission drain plate and get the longest and thickest screwdriver you can to brace against the flywheel weights since there is really no other way that I know of to stop the crank from turning while you are loosening/tightening the nut (get someone to hold the screwdriver). I didn't have to remove anything to get to the nut but I did have to "massage" the 1/2" ratchet/socket between the radiator shroud and the pulley to get it inside to the nut. After the pulley and nut are off there are two ways to get the seal out. I used a seal remover which was quick and easy and only cost about $5. According to the Haynes you can also screw two small screws into the seal and then pull on them. If I recall correctly the seal has a font and back with the back showing the spring. Once inserted everything else is the reverse order. While I was down there I did remove my pan to examine it and clean it out. Could have saved a lot of time if I had just started with gasket dissolver from the get go instead of screwing around with a utility knife. The seal only took about an hour to replace and I had no experience with it before. |
Greg Davis (Gregdavis)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 10:27 am: |
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Thanks Jason, that will help alot. I appreciate the info. |
Jason Johnson (Discomojo)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 11:33 am: |
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No problem, let me know how you make out. |
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