| Author |
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Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 10:48 pm: | 
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I've upgraded my rear axles to Breat Basin and arb lockers front and rear. I am about to upgreade my front axles and cv joints to Great Basin also. I am still running the stock gears, t-case, drive shafts ect. I will be changing the gears to 411 from Great Basin down the road. (Probably not until next year though)
I am wondering what will be the next thing to break? |
Will Roeder (Will_Roeder)
| | Posted on Monday, December 02, 2002 - 10:54 pm: |
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depending on which CVs...it would probably still be the CVs IMHO...
you may want to consider early D110 CV's if you dont care about ABS...you can convert to 23spline/1.20ish diameter shafts if you go with the D110 CVs...
Will |
Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 11:09 am: |
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Will,
I talked with Bill at Great Basin and after upgrading to his extreem duty front axle and cv I don't think that I will have a breakage problem in that area.
There will always be a week link in the drive line but i want to figure out the logical point of the breakage so I can determine what I need to carry for spare parts.
I am hoping that the weekest link will be something that can be esily changed on the trail...crossing my fingers that it will be a drive shaft or a u-joint.
Other points of breakage could be the stock gears, t-case or diffs, maybe even something as sinister as the transmision. I know that i can not know for sure what will break next but I want to know the odds ahead of time. |
Shane
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 12:52 pm: |
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http://www.cvunlimited.com
lifetime warantee(1 time free replacement) for ANY breakage with any size tires and have the ABS ring. $1200 for complete front chromo shafts and CV's.
Did I mention they have a WARRANTEE? |
Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 01:11 pm: |
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Shane,
Thanks for the link. I am very loyal to Bill at Great Basin Rovers. He has helped me by phone numerous times and has helped me in a pinch with products also. It is possible to break anything but I have put his hd axles through some abuse and they are still going strong, so I will go with his new extreem duty axle and cv joint.
I feel confident that the new axle set up will not break so I am wondering what will break instead. |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 01:25 pm: |
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what year/model Rover? suspension & tire size?
how about upgrading driveshafts or at least the uj's?
still running stock steering links? trailing arms? |
Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 01:54 pm: |
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Blue...
Sorry for lack of info. 97 disco. ome hd, 265/75...arb locker ft and rear. sg drop kit, rovertyme cones.
Stock gears, driveshaft, u joint. stock steering and trailing arms..with slightly bent spares with me at all times. I have learned to feild repair or replace (bend back to almost straight)the steering componants and trailing arms. I am working on retrofitting a reenforcment for those things. I will probably ust lide a strong pipe over the trailing arms, and other steering links.
I should clarify my question better. I am looking for the weak links in the drive train. Currently it is the front axle, cv combination. I have expected for quite some time that I would break something in the front left and sunday afternoon i broke the left side front axle.
After I upgrade to gb the risk of that same breakage will be drasticly diminished.
Not knowing much about science and energy transfer I do know that energy has to go somewhere. When there is a lot of stress on a componant it will break eventuall releasing the energy right? In the past it has been my left rear axle..(broken twice).and my driving style is agressive in the lines I take..I EXPECT to have breakage.
Once I upgrade and I stress the drive line to the breaking point what is the next logical thing to break?
My goal is to estimate where the weak link is and direct it, through upgrading componants, to an inexpensive easy to feild repair part of the driveline. |
bluegill
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 02:12 pm: |
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hmmmm...don't know if I agree with the mindset "I EXPECT to have breakage" but to each his own. If you've upgraded things like you've said, then I'd NOT expect to have breakage. Great Basin's stuff seems to be pretty damn stout (some may argue that someone else's HD axles/cv's may be stouter, but the point is that you've upgraded from stock).
Think about your driveshafts and ujoints. They may be easy to replace/repair in the field, but the damage they can cause to innocent bystanding equipment may not be so easy to repair.
Does Bill's extra HD front setup require any modification to the swivel housing? Can anything go wrong there? |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 02:15 pm: |
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p.s. I know you're concentrating on drivetrain, but don't forget about your steering box/pump if it's stock. Think of that trying to steer those aired-down tires on the rocks on a locked axle... |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 03:02 pm: |
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I'm with Blue, I would want just about anything other than a driveshaft or universal joint failing.
If you do a search on other sites, you will find a plethora of information on the finer points of axle shaft breakage. While I have yet to break one necessitating field repair, I think that the part I would least mind replacing would have to be an axle shaft, mainly due to relatively low cost (compared to CV or third member), relative ease of access, and availability.
My two cents.
Oh yeah, I agree with Blue again, as you break things and replace them with heavier duty, you reduce the likelihood of further breakage, Ceteris parabus (any latin scholars?). If you replace that which you break and don't change anything else (like terrain or driving style) you should be fairly safe...
As for Blue's question-unless you are going to the 110 CVs, there shouldn't be any mods necessary to the swivel housing.
Paul |
Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 04:10 pm: |
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Blue,
I don't like to have breakage but I understand that it is the risk I take when I wheel. I upgrade as I go and as I upgrade I am able to do more challanging lines and i also risk more damage. There is no certanty that any upgrade will never fail. I am trying to plan ahead, knowing that it is a possibility of failure adn I want to take an educated aproach to the possibility. I want to avoide being towed from a trail.
I have not yet upgraded my front axles because I just broke it 12/1 sunday.
Paul makes a good point...
It is very easy to replace a axle on the trail. So if I upgrade and reduce the possibility of that failure do I risk a more catastrophic problem because I have moved "the weekest link" to another part of the drive train? and if so wich element? |
MarkAlbrecht
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 04:27 pm: |
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I see the theory behind Brian's quest: to deliberately create an easily (and inexpensively) repaired weak spot. That way you could carry a couple of spares. Not bad in theory, because regardless of build up, something will eventually break (because you try harder lines/obstacles). Unforetunately, in reality predicting where the breakage will occur may be hard to do given the number of variables unless your weak spot is ridiculously weak and snapping every few feet. Despite seeing Brian's theory, I have no idea what will break first. |
Will Roeder (Will_Roeder)
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 03, 2002 - 04:39 pm: |
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FWIW, i think that the GBR "extreme duty kit" is basically what i listed above...the AEU 2522 CVs(early D110), and 23/24 spline shafts...also has 2 bushings and 2 flanges..
The reason i think this is because on the GBR site, on the front extreme duty axles/cv's page, it says :
"The difference with this kit is that it eliminates the 1.030"/32 CV joint and replaces it with a 1.20"/23 spline CV joint (GBR2522). This eliminates the small 1.030 inch end of the inner axle, the weak point in the front axle assembly. The CV joint supplied with this kit is larger and has 1.20"/23 spline axle input."
Notice that the part number is GBR2522 for the CVs ...which is similar to the early D110 part number(AEU2522)....
So, if i were you, i would buy some genuine D110 CV's elsewhere, then buy Bills inner axles/bushing set/flange set so you can save some money...
Also, FWIW...people are running this set up with 33s,35s,and even 38.5s...and it seems like the CV is still the first thing to break...
Will Roeder |
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