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Craig Kobayashi (Koby)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 05:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well, I got my RTE sliders back from the powdercoaters today and installed.

it was a 3.5 hour job when it was all said and done. It would have been a half-hour faster, but the cordless drill battery quit on us.

For those of you who installed your own RTE sliders, how in the hell did you drill the forward-most hole in the rear door well?

I can't figure it out, short of removing the door, which I am not inclined to do at this point. Any suggestions?
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 06:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have a D1, but for that hole I had to cut the drill bit down a touch and it still came out just a touch cock-eyed but it made it through and wasn't too much off that the bolt wouldn't make it through.
 

Michael Noe (Noee)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 07:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

D2, I had to use a 90 degree drill, it just fit.
 

Alex Schubow (Alex)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Remove the door. Easy if you have a helper.
 

Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Craig, remove the door. I did the install by myself and had to remove front and rear doors at one point or another. I put my "workmate" table next to the door (with a foam pad to protect the door), removed the two little clips on the hinges, lifted the door just enough to get it off the hinges and laid it flat on the table. This kept the door at roughly the same height as when attached to the truck so I didn't have to disconnect the wiring harness, etc. This worked for front and rear doors.

Rick
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm not sure right off hand what the differences would be, but I had my sliders put on at Rovertym and they used a right angle drill if I remember correctly, without removing the doors.

And, I've helped with installation on both a D1 for Zak Ruck and a D2 for Randy Maynard and neither time did we remove doors. We didn't even have a right angle drill, and if I recall correctly we used both a normal length drill bit and a long bit around 8 to 12 inches. We did have someone push on the door during drilling though.

Greg
 

Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg, it might be a matter of what model of drill you use. On the rear door, it was really close and having someone push the door might have helped. I couldn't push it hard enough with my shoulder to keep it out of the way while drilling though. Since I had already removed the front door, removing the back didn't seem like a big deal. The fronts had to be removed because I was installing a pair of RTE sliders with the reinforcements at the door pillars and you have to pull the front doors to drill those holes.

No one usually mentions removing the rear doors so I assumed it was just an issue with my drill being slightly too long.

Rick
 

Craig Kobayashi (Koby)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks guys!

I'll definitely reevaluate the door situation.

It was really late when we decided not to try the install. Perhaps it won't appear as impossible next time.
 

Paul D. Morgan (V22guy)
Posted on Wednesday, December 11, 2002 - 04:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Craig,

I have helped install three sets of the RTE sliders and each time, another person pushed on the door while I drilled.

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