| Author |
Message |
    
st
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 10:17 am: | 
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The less I have to go to the dealer the better. I can easily do the jobs mentioned above but what else - I only plan on taking to the dealer every 30K or so. What else needs lubed on a regular basis and how do you do it? Disco II 40K
PS - I haven't gotten a rust inspection from the dealer recently - I have to pratically beg them to do it even though I take my rig to regularly serviced there(maintenance is included up to 45K).
So at the 37K they tell me they can't do it until the 45K even though it has been well over a year since the last inspection. total BS |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 11:02 am: |
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a novice can do just about anything that needs to be done provided they take the time to research the project. these are truley simple vehicles.
make them log that you are requesting the rust inspection,if you need to have something done a buncha years from now your eaerly diligeance will look good to LRNA when it gets put in front of them.
FWIW |
Pugsly (Pugsly)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 11:34 am: |
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There's a lot of inspection, tightening, greasing, etc that can be done very easily.
Get to know the underside really well, so that you will notice damage/changes.
For some real experience, commit to changing ALL the fluids - it is easy, but will take a little while the first time you do it. (including things like pulling the coolant drain plugs from the block, etc) |
Alex Cabrera (Alexcabrera)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 01:56 pm: |
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If you bust your diff... (like moi (grin)). It was pretty easy. Remove the axles then pop that baby out. I have changed the cat, driveshaft and the belt.
Get the manual and everything is easy!!
:-)
A little elbow grease and its a snap.
Alex Cabrera |
Kirk Thibault (Kirkt)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 01:59 pm: |
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You can also lube most of the elements of the front and rear drive shafts with a grease gun equipped for grease fittings - look for the grease nipples. Installing grease fitted ujoints (e.g., from Great Basin Rovers) in the CV portion of the front driveshaft will allow lubing of these elements as well. Especially good to do after wheeling in water, mud, etc. Just pump in the grease until the dirty stuff comes out. Get a driveshaft shop to fit the new ujoints and lube away! Remember to inspect the roto-flex element for cracking and wear (the rubber coupling disc between the rear drive shaft and the rear pinion).
Like Pugsly said, get to know the underside of your vehicle and inspect for changes, damage, leaks, etc. You can also extend the breather tubes fairly easily (I think there are DIY instructions floating around on the web) if you find signs of water in the diff fluid, trans fluid, etc. when you change those fluids.
The range of maintenance stuff you find yourself doing will probably depend upon how much wheeling you do and under what kind of conditions. Don't forget little things like tire pressure and rotation - easy but overlooked.
have fun - kirk |
Ramsay (3toedsloth)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 04:20 pm: |
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Fuel filter is an easy project too.
But as previously mentioned, with a workbook and the advice of some of the grease monkeys around here, just about anything can be an easy project.
Have fun.
JR |
Robbie (Robbie)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 04:58 pm: |
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let's see, no real experience working on cars besides spark plugs before I picked up my 95 Disco 3 years ago. I have now done, myself:
plugs
wires
cap
rotor
brakes f/r
suspension (spring lift, shocks, steering damper)
fuel filter
change oil/filter
diff/transfer case fluids
swivel fluids
p/s pump
serpentine belt
coolant and hose replacement
stepper motor replacement
rotoflex
other stuff I can't think of right now
not too mention non-engine/drive train modifications. just get some good jack stands, good set of socket and wrenches and most definitely the manual and Dweb. |
Matt La Frenz (Doc175)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 06:46 pm: |
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What is the cheapest way to get a manual? |
Steve (Scrover)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 12, 2002 - 07:01 pm: |
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ebay! |
Frode H�bertz Haaland (Discofrode)
| | Posted on Friday, December 13, 2002 - 01:46 am: |
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Chk Ottos site to see what an academic in the presidential office of Ten Thumbs Land Rover Club can do...: http://home.halden.net/discovery |
Corey (Discobro)
| | Posted on Saturday, December 14, 2002 - 01:34 pm: |
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I have ordered a Haynes manual. Is this pretty basic like a Chilton? Will it at least give me an idea of what I'm doing? Those manuals are $100+ and the Haynes are $30ish. I've also heard that the manuals are most of the time photocopied versions of originals. Is that true and isn't that a copyright infringement? If I'm going to buy one of those I'd better get an original! |
Pugsly (Pugsly)
| | Posted on Saturday, December 14, 2002 - 02:18 pm: |
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All the paper LR manuals (4) that I have bought off of ebay were originals, don't know who told you they were all photocopies but my experience is the opposite.
Now most of the CDs are illegal copies, but then what do you expect for $5?
I'm not aware of people having great success with the Haynes/Chilton manuals, but YMMV. |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Saturday, December 14, 2002 - 02:38 pm: |
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" Fuel filter is an easy project too. "
Not on a D2 it's not  Neither is removing axles but with a big enough breaker bar it can be I guess. |
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