| Author |
Message |
    
danieltyates
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 05:17 pm: | 
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Does any one have any advise, on how I change my brake pads. I have a D2, and I've never done it. Is it self explanitory, or will I need any special tools or instrucitons. |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 07:08 pm: |
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Very easy to do.
<-----If you do a search here you'll find lots of good information on it. |
ema
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 07:16 pm: |
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EE had a terrific write-up on changing brake pads on the D2.
http://expeditionexchange.com/disco2brakes/ |
Ed Petrush (Exp3)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 07:38 pm: |
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I would not follow EE directions in using channel locks to compress the pistons... You should NEVER push fluid backwards into an ABS system... the system can fail prematurely.. if you need to compress the pistons at all.. loosed up the bleeder values and then use the channel locks..this will of course let some air into the system so you will have to bleed the system but it is better than messing up the abs pump by forcing dirty (possibly contaminated fluid) into the value block & pump... all in all the task should only take you about an hour & 20 minutes... GOOD LUCK |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 09:49 pm: |
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Head to Peep Boys and pick up a piston compressor...it's very cheap and you won't mangle your pistons when compressing them. Unless you have a power bleeder, i would refrain from opening the bleeder valves when you compress the pistons. Your D2 fluid hasn't been around in the world all that long to become so radically contamninated to FU your valve block and ABS pump. IMHO. Did mine w/o opening the bleeder valves and was no worse for the wear. |
Jack (Jack)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 10:01 pm: |
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Have not changed my D2 pads yet, but I've always used a C-clamp w/ a block of wood over the caliper piston to compress. I've never opened the bleeders on an ABS system - so far no damage. But I think the theory is interesting regarding ABS not liking the back-pressure.
What condition are your rotors in? I've heard that D2's have a pretty tight spec. regarding replacement, with too little material to turn them.
-Jack |
Ed Petrush (Exp3)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 10:28 pm: |
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I would just stress that it is possible to ruin the value block & pump whether you have brand new fluid or 150k on the truck.. the abs system has check valves in the valve block to limit back flow...(the contaminated fluid is a secondary issue) I guess its not worth my gamble to save 15 minutes and not bleed the system... I would certainly stay away from any mechanic that does this.. if he is taking this short cut.. where else might he be taking short cuts that could cost you $$ & your safety.. |
Alex Cabrera (Alexcabrera)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 11:10 pm: |
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Would disabling ABS neutralize the valves? |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 11:10 pm: |
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Not trying to be difficult Ed, but help me out here. Each time you let off the pedal you have "some" back flow induced into the system. These check valves you speak of, how do the differentiate between foot off the pedal back flow versus backflow when doing a pad replacement ? |
Kyle Beckman (Kbeckman)
| | Posted on Thursday, December 19, 2002 - 11:47 pm: |
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Ed,
I would have to beg to differ. I have the shop manual, and their procedure is to compress the piston. They obviously have a special tool to do it, but the result is the same. They do not state anything about bleeding the system. I'll be doing mine this weekend.
Kyle |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 12:00 am: |
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Just be sure to open the top of the resevoir so the fuild has a place to go. And be ready to recover the excess fluid. |
Ed Petrush (Exp3)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 08:14 am: |
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while you are right about pressing on the brake pedal and letting your foot off, there is some back flow, the amount is a fraction of an inch.. but when you compress all the pistons to the stops, you are forcing a relative huge amount of fluid back thru the value block & abs pump... as you might have guessed, the LR shop manual is not the best in the world and is lacking in several areas.. one of those being braking system. Obviously you will do what you want with your own truck but I would guess to say 9 of 10 professional mechanics would not do the caliper compression without opening the bleeder value (abs systems only)
No matter if you open bleeder or not, certainly make sure the pistons in the caliper is compressed evenly.. if you get the piston going in crooked.. you will damage the seals and require a caliper rebuild or replacement.. using a large c-clamp with a piece of wood over piston opening is best (Channel locks usually don't do such a great job, they will only compress one side...)
Best of luck.... |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 08:44 am: |
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At $9.99 and availible at sears or any auto parts store...treat yourself to an early xmas present...and yet another new tool !
Ed, I think we are back to the fact that the act of pushing fluid back is not by itself going to damage anything. I believe the problem occurs if your fluid is contaminated with water/rust/scale and this material gets pushed back, all the way back up to the ABS, therein a problem could develop. |
Rick Lindgren (Slacker)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 12:39 pm: |
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Todd, you said not to open the bleeder valves unless you have a power bleeder. Was that just because it requires two people to properly bleed the system without a power bleeder or is the general task of bleeding the DII brakes such a pain in the butt. Just curious.
Also, How often should brake fluid be replaced? I know it doesn't last forever.
Thanks,
Rick |
Greggo
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 03:40 pm: |
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My experience has been to use the Large 'C' Channel Locks...
The ones that look like they could have one end go in each ear of someone you don't like and then twist and clamp, twist and clamp, he he heeeeee...
Actually, this sets the end of the grip in the center of the piston and the other side goes around to the body and it works really, really well.
No slant cause you are not compressing on the edge of the piston and the problem with a C clamp is that you have to twist the entire thing in... while the Channel Locks are a loosen, twist to tighten and cramp down... clean and easy...
Also, for keeping the operation clean, I use a kids liquid medicine suction dropper (like a small turkey baster) to remove the extra fluid and it works like a charm... put the fluid in a CLEAN plastic cup and if you take too much out... you can recycle it.
And... my brakes have only failed a few times ;) |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 03:50 pm: |
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damn... and i've always been using BMF screwdriver or lug wrench to push the pads apart 
compared to that, channel locks is sheer elegance.
peter |
Brent Lemons
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 06:07 pm: |
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Does anyone know how to get the rotors off? |
Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 07:30 pm: |
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get the brake caliper off first,
pop the rubber condom off the hub nut,
use a BMF flathead screwdriver or tool of preference to unbend the ear of that washer so the nut can come off,
using a 52mm or 2-1/16" socket, undo the hub nut,
take out this nut and the washer,
using a 52mm or 2-1/16" socket, undo the second hub nut, and then
carefully slide out the rotor, trying not to scrape the hub seal on the threads.
and the beauty is in your hands. don't drop the MoFo on your toes - it hurts.
if (like me) you don't posess the sacred 52mm socket (you can buy it from Atlantic British for $19.95, or from 4WD Hardware for $9.95, or order it at Napa for $10 or so), you can use a chisel or BMF flathead screwdriver to take off the hub nuts.
peter |
Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
| | Posted on Saturday, December 21, 2002 - 09:22 am: |
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Brent - If you have a D1 Peters directions might work but not on a D2. On a D2 just pull the caliper off you need a 12 point socket. And then if you're lucky you can use #4 philips or the biggest philips you can find and undo the one set screw on the rotor. In my case I had to use a dremel to cut a slot into the screw and hammer in a big screw driver into the slot and unscrew the thing. The old rotor should then come off with a little help from a mallet. |
sg
| | Posted on Monday, December 23, 2002 - 09:56 am: |
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any more opinions out there on compressing the caliper pistons without bleeding on a DII????? - my brakes are due here soon. First time I did it I didn't bother to bleed and have had no problems but....in light of this thread. |
greggo
| | Posted on Monday, December 23, 2002 - 01:05 pm: |
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OK... I'm a little confused about a BMF Screwdriver... Does BMF stand for BIG MO FO? |
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