| Author |
Message |
    
L_Tilly
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 07:57 am: | 
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Hello, fellow DWebers.
I had planned on replacing my rotors, brake pads and rear clipers (I was warned they were "going"), along with some swivel seals, etc, on my 96 D1 in Feb. Well, this week I got a little surprise. I had a grinding noise (not a good thing) coming from the rear of my vehicle. I thought it seemed to come from the rear DS brake so I took it into a local shop for a quick check. They confirmed that the caliper was bad and needed to be replaced (it's not releasing the brake any more). It's very cooroded and I'm much happier replacing than trying a field repair.
I still have to wait another couple months to do the full brake job ($), but I really need to put on a new caliper ASAP since the Disco is a primary vehicle for us. Especially in winter weather. I have never tackled brake work before so I would greatly appreciate some advise.
I do own a shop manual, but the section on brake work is not very "friendly" for first timers and assumes a certain amount of familiarity. I thought I'd have more time to study it and collect other info before tackling this project but fate didn't agree. I hope I can fill in the gaps from here. I have done an archive search and after reading almost a dozen threads I got some more info but not enough to feel prepared. The tech sections also seemed to lack this.
I'm going to order a replacement caliper, but are there any other parts / tools I need for this immediate fix? Also, does someone have an easy step-by-step about how to bleed brakes? Any equipment needed for that assuming my wife can mash the peddle for me when needed? Even some scanned pages out of a Haynes manual may cover many of these questions since they often deal with projects in a more hand-held manner. I realize some of this work may be duplicated when I tear back into it to replace the rotors & pads, but that's acceptable at this point.
As an incentive, I'll document and photograph this project and I'll write up a short tech for here and/or EE (assuming I don't kill myself or my rig in the process) so this info will be out there.
As always, "Thanks in advance!"
Lawrence [email protected]
96 Disco - Beowulf - NH, USA |
Alex Schubow (Alex)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 08:39 am: |
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Its about as simple as removing the old one, installing the new one, and bleeding the brakes. Use locktite on the caliper bolts. You need a 12 point 13 (or 14mm?) socket for the caliper bolts. An 11mm wrench is needed for the bleed screws.
Brakes can be bled without any extra equipment. Buy a couple quarts of LMA and bleed all 4 wheels as long as you're at it.
pretty easy job. |
John Cinquegrana (Johnc)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 08:40 am: |
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Why replace the caliper? It's probably the piston seal that's bad. I might be wrong but that's what happened to me. |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 09:01 am: |
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Just be sure that when you commence the bleeding process that you start at the caliper you just replaced and then proceed to furthest one from the master cylinder and work your way back to the closest.
You have basically two options when dealt with a frozen/locked up caliper. By far the easiest road is to replace it with a new unit. The second road requires more knowledge and skill to rebuild the unit. True the seal is an automatic replacement on a rebuild. You also need to inspect and may need to replace the piston...and if the bore cannot be resurfaced with a light honing, then your back to buying a new one or re-sleeving the bore.
From what I read above, it would be better for L Tilly to just go the new caliper route. |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 09:49 am: |
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http://www.northeastbritishparts.com/
has various rebuild kits. i've had my eye on them for a while but have yet to need to rebuild mine.
just a thought.
rd |
John Cinquegrana (Johnc)
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 11:43 am: |
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I've rebuilt the calipers on my 88 RR and on a 95 D90 w/o a problem. Plus, it's a good way to get to know the inner workings of your LR. |
L_Tilly
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2002 - 11:50 am: |
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Thanks for the notes so far. I'm a little more comfortable with the project when I don't get a dozen replies starting with something like "the eight things you need to be worried about are..." 
I appreciate the suggestions to rebuild, and I normally don't mind diving into most projects, especially to save a significant amount of money. But in this case I can get a new caliper for under $200 and it has a 1 year warranty. It can be put on and have me back on the road in an afternoon with more peace-of-mind. Plus I can still hold onto the old one and clean and rebuild at a later date to add to my spares-kit.
What about bleeding the brakes? I planned on bleeding the entire system in Feb with the full rotor / pad replacement, but I don't mind doing it twice (kind of like flushing it, if that makes any sense). What's the easiest / proper method to bleed the brakes on a Disco? Do I just open the resevoir cap, open the bleed screw and have someone mash the pedal? Would it be "mash x-number of times" or "mash repeatedly until no more fluid comes out"? Sorry if this is a pretty low-level question. I've done engine and electrical shade-tree work since I was 17, but I've never done brakes before. 
-Lawrence |
BMac66
| | Posted on Sunday, December 22, 2002 - 09:04 pm: |
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Lawrence, the trick is to not introduce air in to the system, and to force any air that is in the system, out.
Putting a clear hose over the bleeder valve and run it upwards for a bit will show you if air is being sucked back into the brakes ( tighten the valve now ), and also if air and fluid is coming out.
The method I use is three smooth/steady pumps to build up preasure and hold - release the bleeder valve until fluid stops flowing then tighten - check reservoir level - repeat.
Putting 1 litre through the wheel furtherest from the master cylinder, then 1/2 litre through each of the other three should be heaps, but I could be wrong.
Also note that you must use the correct fluid - dot3 or dot4 - can't remember which.
Have fun,
Bruce. |
Lawrence Tilly (L_Tilly)
| | Posted on Monday, December 23, 2002 - 06:07 pm: |
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Thanks for the walk-thru, Bruce. Especially the estimate on the amount to put thru. That'll help me gauge how much to pick up. Merry Christmas!!
-Lawrence |
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