| Author |
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wags2034
| | Posted on Saturday, March 16, 2002 - 12:24 am: | 
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The Rover used to start first crank, right away. Now, It has to crank excessively to start. And sometimes when I start it the key will be all the way turned to 'crank' ... there is a brief pause... then it cranks. Electrical, fuel or other? Any remedies? Any suggestions? This sort of happened over night. Thanks. |
Disco_Dad
| | Posted on Saturday, March 16, 2002 - 04:04 am: |
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wags2034
Have the battery checked it may be close to its service life and not have the cranking amps needed. On the acid plate batts it can happen as fast as overnight
Are you in a cold climate? Napa has a good spiral wound battery if you need to replace it.
Also check the positive and negative battery connections for corrosion and fit
I had a similar occurrence to what you�re experiencing on my D1. It finally failed to start at all. It was due to the positive cable going bad, it had several bulges in the wire and when I cut it open not much wire was left just green powder.
It used to take several cranks to get the starter to engage before I changed the cable. After it would start on the first click
Some other areas top check down bye the starter it gets real hot in that area and the wire will deteriorate fast.
Hope this helps you
Dee |
bryan
| | Posted on Saturday, March 16, 2002 - 11:39 am: |
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wags2034
My 95 (104K) has the same problem. Changed fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new starter(old one went TU), brand new battery (TU as well). I've got a new fuel pump on the way. The funny thing about my situation is each time I changed one of the above items the rig started fine for a day or two, then went back to the same old cranking problem you describe, until I changed something else. Others on this board (thanks Dave Thomas, Disco Dad and Nathan Crabtree) have been instrumental in helping me narrow this down. It seems like the concensus on the life of a fuel pump is about 100K, that's about when my problem first started. |
wags2034
| | Posted on Saturday, March 16, 2002 - 10:30 pm: |
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I dhould have added, the battery is new, therefore the connections are clean. However, positive battery cable condition under insulation is unknown, I will check on this. The fuel pump is another good lead to check. Thanks for the help. Brad |
Tony Box
| | Posted on Sunday, March 24, 2002 - 10:59 pm: |
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I'm having the same problem with my 95 Disco. Have changed plugs, wires, cap, & rotor but to no avail. Seems like it's not getting enough fuel when cranking. I'm leaning towards a fuel pump too. I'm anxious to see if it works for you guys. |
bryan
| | Posted on Monday, March 25, 2002 - 12:35 am: |
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New pump arrived this week, installed it yesterday....problem solved. |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Monday, March 25, 2002 - 08:00 am: |
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My 95 disco does the same thing with a new pump and battery. Only when it's cold, though. If the car sits for more than 10 hrs, it takes a lot more cranks to start it. |
bryan
| | Posted on Monday, March 25, 2002 - 10:43 am: |
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Kingfish,
My problems seemed to start when I hit 100K in November, about the asme time the temp started to dip below freezing on a regular basis.
I saw a tech post on the rovers north of atlantic british site that suggests using 5-30 in the winter to allow the starter to spin faster. Have you tired that yet? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Another item to check...the fuel pressure regualtor. From what I've read, it's what holds the pressure between the fuel pump and the fuel rail. If it's faulty, your fuel pressure could be bleeding off (not sure of how the cold temp would affect this though). One last item, how long do you wait to start your rig after you turn the key to the on postition (not start). I've heard that on the older discos (like yours and mine) that you should wait 3-5 seconds before turning the key from on to start. |
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