$500 break job? what's up with that?

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Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post Squeaky brakes Pugsly 2  1  01-30-03  01:27 am   Closed: New threads not accepted on this page

Author Message   Monte Blumenfeld (Monteman71) Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 10:09 pm:    00 Disco II in the shop for new transmission. Now there telling me I need a break job and it's 500 bucks! Someone tell me thats not normal.   muskyman Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 10:22 pm:    pretty normal...do it yourself for under 100...its easy...make that simple   Prescottj (Prescottj) Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 10:23 pm:    Warped rotors?   muskyman Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 10:27 pm:    not for $500...not at a dealer   Monte Blumenfeld (Monteman71) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 08:04 am:    $500 at a dealer   Monte Blumenfeld (Monteman71) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 08:34 am:    Dealer just called and told me that is just for the breaks. They dont even turn the rotors or nothing.   perroneford Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 09:09 am:    Monte, You don't turn rotors on our vehicles, they just get replaced. Brakes are not that difficult to do (as others here have mentioned) and you can do them yourself with only a few tools. You'll save yourself a lot of money going this route. -P   Monte Blumenfeld (Monteman71) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 09:28 am:    I usually do my own breaks. Unfortunately I travel for my job so all my tools are in another state and I wont be back there for aleast a few months. But thanks for the Info.   Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 09:45 am:    lol, you almost don't need tools to change the pads... In short, after removing the wheel you pull out the retaining pins, remove old pads, compress the pistons, put in new pads and put in the pins... A leatherman is about all you have to have.... -L   Tom Rowe Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 09:53 am:    Ask them how many miles left on the pads. If you're easy on the brakes (harder to do in an automatic)they may very well last till you get home with your own tools.   Monte Blumenfeld (Monteman71) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:00 am:    last break job I did is on my 71 Chevelle. You need tools for that. I'll take it on if thats all I need. thanks L   muskyman Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:03 am:    I agree with les if you have done brakes before you can change a disco's in a parking lot with a needle nose pliers and use the factory tire iron. the whole job will still take under an hour jack it up remove the wheel use the needle nose to pull the snap pins tap the cross pins out with the tire iron pull the first pad use the tire iron to compress the piston back install the first pad pull the second pad compress the piston install the second pad replace the cross pins and snap pin replace wheel your done, you can do it almost as fast as I typed it...really. any Napa or autozone will have the pads good luck   Jason Vance (Jason) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:20 am:    If they are just replacing pads, $500 is a complete rip off. Read above one post to what Muskyman wrote and do it yourself!   Monte Blumenfeld (Monteman71) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:22 am:    Thanks Muskyman I take back everything I ever said bad about you.   muskyman Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:31 am:    jason , the bad part is thats what dealers get my neighbor just had his done at the dealer $512 for pads and a flush no rotors no doubt its a rip off Monte, sorry forgot...step 1 should be remove the brake resevoir cap to prevent popping it off the master cylinder...my bad thom   sg Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:36 am:    www.expeditionexchange.com - tech section on how to change DII brakes. What was wrong with your transmission?   Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:37 am:    Also, Buying the pads at Advance or wherever: a) they won't come with new pins and springs, so, be careful with 'em if you're going to reinstall them, or, buy some new little cotters... b) they'll probably be Rangie pads, which have a wear sensor on one of the pads.... it'll be a pair of ~4" wires coming out of the top of the pad, that run into a plug... just clip them off as close to the pad as you can, and they'll be fine. Where are you currently located? If someone's near by, they might be able to help.... it's REALLY not hard AT ALL, but, I know that whenever doing something for the first time myself, I like to have someone looking over my shoulder to keep me from doing anything stupid... -L   Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:39 am:    Oh, scratch that about the clipping the wear sensor, I didn't notice that it was a DII instead of a DI.... -L   Jason Vance (Jason) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 10:39 am:    I went down to the dealership the other day to look into getting a y-pipe for my '83 (I need one off a '90 or later for the O2 sensors)... they wanted $2000!!! I told them my truck cost me 2 grand! I can find a new y-pipe for less than $500 http://www.catalyticconverter.net/view_product3.asp?pro=1031 I guess the other $1500 is so I can sleep well at night knowing that their kids are going to college!   Monte Blumenfeld (Monteman71) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 11:12 am:    Last night I was driving and stopped at a red light. When the light changed I pressed the gas, but did not go. I thought that I may have slipped into N but I had not. I then put the truck into park and tried again. This time both the (M) and (S) lights were flashing. Once they stopped flashing the (M) light and the check engine soon light stayed on. The owner’s manual says just to get to the dealership soon.I was able to put the truck into reverse and get off the road. Does anyone have an idea of what had happen? This was a few nights ago. Its at the shop now getting a new ZF transmision(thanks Musky). I will be getting it back by Friday. I will be out of town this weekend but if anyone lives near Boston I will be changing the breaks next weekend. Thanks, Monte   Pugsly (Pugsly) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 11:47 am:    I've also found that LR is very conservative about the timing of those brake jobs. Likely you can go for many more miles before you really need it. [LR told me I needed brakes starting at my 22.5k service. I'm now over 30k and just getting ready to do the job.]   toddslater Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 02:28 pm:    Les and musky's procedure I would suspect is for a D1....The D2 is even easier you'll need to purchase a wrench to unbolt the caliper and the channel locks for retracting the pistons. Really easy. I also agree with Pugsly, you have probably got many miles left on them if youy want to hold off till you get back home and do them in the spring.   Pugsly (Pugsly) Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 03:47 pm:    I think I remember them telling me that they recommend replacement whenever the brakes are below 40% wear - quite a safety margin!   Erik Olson (Jon) Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2003 - 01:13 am:    I'm doing my brakes next week and have two questions: Do you change your rotors out every time or only if they show some telltale sign of wear? Once the tire is off and the brake job done, how difficult is it to install a new ABS sensor? I've found replacements for $75 (1 year guarantee) and have no clue how it goes in. Once it is in, do fault codes reset on their own? Okay, three questions from Mr. Brake Novice! Thanks! e   Pugsly (Pugsly) Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2003 - 01:19 am:    If you have a set of dial calipers you can check to make sure that the rotors have not gone below the minimum thickness. Though I do tend to believe that the minimum thickness has a pretty big safety margin built in. I certainly would not just automatically replace them. If you are getting vibration/pulsing when braking then get them turned or replace. I have no idea on the ABS question.   todd slater (Toddslater) Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2003 - 10:04 am:    Going from memory here, As I recall the rotors (recalling the rears at this point) come from the factory with 17~mm thickness. They are below min thickness at 16~mm. Yes you have a whopping 1~mm of useable rotor girth as it were. Basically, shorty after you leave the lot in your spanking new D2, the rotors are done....well that may be a slight exaggeration but not to far off....and certainly by the time the pads are done you'll have machined of more than the precious little mm. So turning the rotors on a D2 is not a "legal" option. I don't recall the front rotor thicknesses from memory but suffice it to say, the useable thickness is very much the same. LR intended them to be disposable. Fortunately, on the D2 swapping out the rotors is much easier than with a D1. As far as the sensor changeout...I'll just ask why at this point ?