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Message |
    
Anonymous
| | Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2002 - 10:39 pm: | 
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Could some of you knowledgeable types out there help me work out a checklist of stuff to have a really nice drivetrain setup with big (34" - 35") tires?
My beginners list is below..
-New driveshafts front and rear (double cardon?)
-Lockers front and rear (what spline? 30? for hd axels?)
-Ashcroft 4.11 gears front and rear
HD axels front (30 spline?)
HD axels rear (24 - 30 spline? must match locker?)
Tires.....
Any help is appreciated.. im trying to not forget anything here.. Also if anyone knows anything about the process of whats involved in moving the rear axle back a little that would seem a neccesarry thing as well..
thanks |
Ron
| | Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2002 - 11:00 pm: |
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to make 34-35s hang you will need some beef
the front axle (imho) cannot be made to handle them reliabley
But here is what I would recommend (I have most of it and am working on the rest):
23 spline cvs (what you really want are the "one ton" cvs PN AEU2522 and the flanges/swivel balls/ and spindles to go with them and to do it really right you want to kryo them however this is trying to make a purse out of a sow's ear IMHO)
24 spline HD inners ashcroft or GBR
24 spline GBR rears
4.10 gears ashcroft or GBR (discount rovers has ashcroft gears for $328)
lockers or your choice, personally I would run a TT in front to reduce stress on the axles/cvs.
IMHO you gain very little going to 30spline over the GBR 24 splines in the rear.
The front axle is the weak link. Even 1 ton cvs die. There is another option which is to fit D44 size u joints in place of the cvs with custom warn 4340 inners. However it is an 1800 set up plus to do it right you need to shell out a few hundred more for CTM u joints which seem to be the best thing going at the moment.
No lets say you have 2000 for your front axle shafts you then are going to be POed from all the vibes from the front end so throw in a couple hundred more for a part time kit for the LT230 plus some time.
Rovertym will get you set up with moving the axle back with some trailing arms and some a frame spacers. Unless you are running major lift you should be ok with a standard DS in the back and if you do the part time conversion you will be ok with a standard shaft in front.
Personally I have the non-1 ton 23 spline cvs (suffix A range rover) a part time lt230 standard drive shafts front and rear. I have a salisbury rear so I am sticking with the stock shafts in that at least for a bit. I have not decided what I am doing with the front but for the time being I have spares. Hopefully I can get the truck out of the garage soon and see how it all works.
My working theory is that if you accept the fact you have crap front axles, don't run them on the street (ie part time your T-case) and don't run a solid locker or do so sparingly you can get by with cvs on 35s.
Ron |
Troy
| | Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2002 - 11:06 pm: |
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1.Tom Woods driveshafts
2. there should be a ton of stuff in the archives, but I like ARBs front and rear since you can turn them on and off (they'll also handle more axle breaks than a Detroit)
3. check out Great Basin Rovers for gear sets as an alternative to Ashcroft
4. for axles, cost no object and assuming you're wanting to stick with the stock rover housings as opposed to a Dana 44/60 etc., go 30 spline rear from Great Basin Rovers and have them gun-bored, and HD front from GBR as well -- including the Birfields
5. Tires? What type of wheeling do you do? MTRs are a good all-around tire ... highway, mud, & rocks
Troy |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2002 - 11:13 pm: |
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Thanks for the great info..
I am going to run MTR's for tires as I use them now, and they truly are flawless and wear on them is amazing.
The part im getting lost on from Ron's post is the part time full time stuff. Is that referring to if I have the CDL in or out? It was also my impression that the front half shafts were the most prone to snapping with big meats, if so, would you want to run 30 spline up front and 24 rear |
Ron
| | Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2002 - 11:23 pm: |
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Part time is a new thing sort of. Basically you trade the center diff for a traditional 2wd/4wd set up. The idea being that you don't stress the front axle and you can run a greater angle on your stock front driveshaft (which gets you some other bonuses like being able to run a lot of castor correction which is would give you a problem angle with a cv front shaft).
The front cvs (in my experience) are the weak link. If you go to an ashcroft innner (which is EN25) IMHO you have gone to something stronger than ANY rover cv. GBR shafts are hy-tuff chromo which are way stronger. No need for 30 spline with them.
Ron |
Lance
| | Posted on Thursday, March 21, 2002 - 11:36 pm: |
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dana 60 |
Ron
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 12:41 am: |
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Yes, that is the right answer. But some people insist on rover crap
Ron |
al hang
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 09:31 am: |
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hmm... it amazes me the amount of postings for big tires in the last 2 weeks. yes i do think it can be done but at great expense and with a hack saw. Once it's all said and done then what? the bigger you go the harder it is to find a good challenging trail, especially on the east coast. i also want to point out the weight problem. you will quickly approach 3 tons of weight being pushed by what? 4 liters of ancient V8 with a K&N? yes you can regear but new gears don't come with the power to push an extra 500-1000lbs of weight easily. every newbie should definitely view the moab video, what you'll see is simple bolt ons working great. tires under 33" doing amazing things. not saying it's advice for everyone, i just had a feeling a lot of stock discos were going to see a hacksaw in the near future. |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 10:58 am: |
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Al -
It's unavoidable. I think one of the things that kept our Rovers out of 35's in the past was the cost of the "base" vehicle. You would have to shell out 15K or more just a couple short years ago to get started. Now, with Disco's popping up all over the place for $5K or less, they are becoming great candidates for "build up" vehicles. Of course, the Defender crowd never had this problem, but that's at least my theory, anyway.
Tom |
Ho Chung (Ho)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 03:26 pm: |
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al, what amazes me even more is that i havne't received one pic of a disco with biggie tire doing something fun out on the trail.
so, if my guess is correct, a stock drivetrain should handle the 35s just fine.  |
p m
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 03:44 pm: |
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LOL
sure
Ron, for $2k you can have Currie high-pinion 9", or custom D60 from Dynatrac. An added bonus is the front driveshaft clearance problem; 35" meats with 5" of wheel travel are on the funny side.
If i ever went up that far with my poor lil disco, i wouldn't even bother with the stock axle.
peter |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 04:53 pm: |
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Ho,
Yeah, this looks pretty boring...
http://www.discoweb.org/brianjackson/Acura1_.jpg |
Ho Chung (Ho)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 05:13 pm: |
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yeah, all i see is ramping and driveway shots.
cmon guys, get me some fun pics to post here. |
Milan
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 09:20 pm: |
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I think 4.77 gears would be much better with 35's unless they are much weaker than 4.10s. Anybody have real info on the strength of the 2 gear sets? |
Ron
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 11:20 pm: |
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PM,
Why don't you look at some of the dana installs out there and then get back to me.
Humm try a nice offset D60 out of a E250 van and any DS offset front 60 or 44. No need for currie or dynarape. The front 60 will cost ya but the rear you can get for under $100.
No clearance problems if you are lifting enough to use the tires.
Ron |
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