| Author |
Message |
    
Brad Bradford (Brad)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 12:26 pm: | 
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Lately I have been having to pull my door latch more than once to get the stupid door open. One time i actually had to crawl through the rear and open it from the inside. The only door it happens on is the Driver's door. All the other latches work fine. Any ideas why my unlocked Disco won't let me in?? |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 12:40 pm: |
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On my '95, the plastic piece that is actuated by the outside door handle had started to wear away just enough so that it wouldn't push the metal striker plate far enough to move the rod up in order to open the latch. I made a metal plate to put on the striker in order to make up for the worn plastic. So far it has worked quite well. I know this is very confusing, and it's all difficult to explain, so if I get ambitious I will scan a picture from the workshop manual.
Matt |
Brad Bradford (Brad)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 12:43 pm: |
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Matt,
I have a workshop manual, but i wanted to get an idea of what might be wrong, before i started tearing into the door. Thanks |
Tony (Gremlin)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 12:52 pm: |
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My problem is with rain and freezing temps at night. A couple of time my door handles have been frozen shut ( ice in that little grove between the stationary part and the moving part of the handle is the culprit. And I've needed to get in through the trunk. Any solutions out there (and don't say park it in a garage). |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 12:54 pm: |
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What has happened is that the mechanism has worn to the point that when you actuate the handle, it no longer pushes far enough to make the latch unlock.
To fix, remove the inner door panel and dust cover. There is a rod that comes down from the door handle that is threaded at the end. At the threaded end, there is a fitting that threads onto the threaded rod that interacts with the lock. Disconnect the threaded piece and turn it to make the rod longer. I turned mine a few turns extra to insure that future wear won't cause me to have to do it again right away.
Real easy fix, costs nothing and will have very pleasant results.
Peace,
Paul |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 01:15 pm: |
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Here is the diagram from the manual. I think Paul is talking about the rod labeled 3. I made the plate because I didn't have enough adjustment left.
Matt |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 01:42 pm: |
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Thank you Matt. You know what they say about one picture being valuable.
At the bottom end of rod #3, one will find the threaded piece I was speaking of. Remove its nifty clip and unscrew a few turns. There you have it.
It took me all of about ten minutes to fix mine one lonely afternoon.
FWIW, I'll bet Matt didn't need to make his shims and could have gotten away with adjusting the link. On mine, there was plenty of adjustment available.
Peace,
Paul |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Friday, March 22, 2002 - 03:06 pm: |
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also, on a range rover upper tail gate if you have troubles with the latch not unlocking or always comming open, there is a similar screw style adjustment that can be done,kind of like this.
i did not know the door worked the same way. maybe ho can copy this into the tech section..
thanks
rob |
ButchS
| | Posted on Saturday, March 23, 2002 - 11:20 am: |
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Have done this too and it worked. My driver door latch didnt hesitate to open. Just turn that rod and test. |
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