| Author |
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Brian
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 10:17 pm: | 
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I have reviewed the procedures for installing OME springs/shocks on both "Expedition Exchange" and "DISCOWEB" websites. I noted a number of differences or possibly omissions. My main concern is being able to swap the old springs with the new.
One website says to take off sway-bars while the other doesn't. One website says to remove the forward radius arm bolt while the other doesn't. One says you need a spring compressor while the other doesn't need one(maybe because he removed the sway bars?). One mentions removing the brake calipers on the rear while the other doesn't address it at all.
I just want to eliminate the unneccessary procedures but ensure that I will be able to swap the springs without the compressors(ain't got any).
What to (REALLY) do?
Brian |
Crash (Crash)
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 10:24 pm: |
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I have a 2000 Discovery Series 2. Last Saturday, I swapped in new shocks and springs. Here is what I found.
You HAVE to remove the forward radius arm bolt. Without removing it, the suspension won't drop enough to allow the springs to be removed without compressing them.
You do not have to remove the brake calipers, but you do have to release the upper plate that attaches the brake hose to the frame. You will max out the lines to remove the springs, but you won't have to remove the caliper. If you are changing brake pads, then just keep the caliper off and suspended by a coat hanger or something.
I removed ONE side of each sway bar, and that helps too. If you think you want to take off your sway bars, this is THE time to do it. Those bolts were BY FAR the most difficult part of the entire swap.
If you have a DII, feel free to email me with any questions while it is fresh in my mind.
[email protected] |
Kyle
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 10:32 pm: |
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A good spring compressor will allow you to skip all those steps...
Kyle |
Murray (Cdnrvr)
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 10:42 pm: |
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If it's a one timer, rent some spring compressors for 10 - 15 bucks and save yourself alot of aggrevation.
Murray |
Jeff Price
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 26, 2002 - 11:29 pm: |
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On the 97 D1, I just jacked the truck up by the pumpkin using the floorjack, then put the jackstands under the frame about a third of the way back (as far back as I could go without getting tippy). You need real long jackstands. The little bit of compression on the OEM springs I could do by hand. I squeezed the OME HD springs in (almost all the way) by hand and then tapped them the last 1/2" with the deadfall hammer.
The compressor would make it a little easier on the install step.
cheers |
Mateu
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 12:11 am: |
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Man, Jeff, you must have the hands of Superman to get squeeze those HD springs by hand. On the day I put in my OME's while rummaging through the tools boxes to gather the necessities, I actually used the rear springs placed together on the floor as a stool for a couple minutes. I sat on those things (all 200# of me) and they hardly moved at all. I ended up buying compressors from Sears when the loaners at Autozone were found to be MIA.
Brian, if you get compressors, you have to get the ones for strut springs because the ones Autozone tried to give me compress from inside the spring. If you try to do that when you do your install, that compressor will be an unwanted guest inside your new springs. The strut spring compressor does its work on the outside of the springs. Very good thing to know. If you have a D1, go by the Dweb tech, if you have a D2, follow the EE tech. The spring install was fine. I did shocks too and my biggest gripe there is the impossible to crack shock mount nylock nuts. Cracking those little beasts added WAAAY too much time to the whole job. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 12:27 am: |
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Although I have a RR, the spring/shock install is the same as it is for a Disco. I run 3" RTE HD springs. I've had these in and out a few times without using a compressor and a single jack. The long front is a pain without the compressors, but not all that bad.
I actually bought a set of compressors but have only used them once. I don't think you need them or a second jack.
...just my $.02 |
Joe
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 12:38 am: |
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I just replaced the springs and shocks on my D1. I followed Kyles instructions as well as those on Landrovernet.com (I did nothing with the sway bars, radius arms, or brakes).
I borrowed a set of spring compressors (heavy duty) from Autozone. They took a $24 deposit and refunded it when I returned them. If you don't have a half inch socket driver, buy a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter. The 1/2" socket driver will fit in the end of the spring compressor and makes the task much quicker.
"Cracking" the self-locking nylon nuts was indeed a bitch. I was able to grip the lower half of the shock with channel locks between the springs which allowed me to "crack" the front lower shock nuts. The front uppers were a different story. I removed the shock with the turret and ended up having to use my dremel to cut the nut on one of its six sides down to the threads. I was then able to insert a flathead screwdriver into the groove and pry the nut loose. It then came off easily with the wrench.
Hope this helps.
-Joe |
Crash (Crash)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 01:20 am: |
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I agree that a spring compressor is the way to go for garage install. One reason why I did not get one was that I wanted to know as much as possible on the dynamics of shock/spring install for...well, the "unexpected". Boy, though, a spring compressor would have been nice...and to do a second time I sure as hell would use one.
Have fun!
;-) |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 07:43 am: |
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43753
$39 if you want to buy one |
Ron Ward (Ronward)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 08:23 am: |
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Follow the instructions on the D'web for "spring shock install" and you can't go wrong. I've had springs in and out of my D1 and RR Classic a few times each and it is never a fun job, but it is not that hard to do. Just be real careful when messing around with the spring compressors. First time I tried it I "rented" a set from Autozone that were the inside type mentioned above. I ended up using both on the outside which I am sure was a bit dangerous. Those springs store huge amounts of energy when compressed.
I never touched the brakes on the fronts but did remove the bolt from the brake junction on the rear diff to give me an extra couple of inches. When doing the rears, take the time to thoroughly clean the spring perches and retaining strap bolt holes. Make sure they line up too when the new spring goes in.
Ron Ward |
alhang
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 09:03 am: |
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http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=384606&prmenbr=6970
26.99 from northern tool. it's cheap,simple, strong, and the same tool is being used on a 3/4ton dodge cummins spring in the following link. this comes up a lot, but it is under 30 bones for a really nice tool. it will make your life easier and having the right tools for the job are always a good thing. and dean, what the hell is that thing, an alien probe?
http://www.people.vcu.edu/~ahang/Mark/spring1.jpg |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 09:37 am: |
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Al,
LOL kinda looks funny I agree, but we used it to compress the springs on my D2 in about 1 minute flat each, using an impact driver on the bolt. From your photo I can't tell if you managed to get a driver on those bolts? Brian - heed Ron's advice and get the right tools - I think there is an even more substantial compressor from the same company ( and double the price), and just try to think what's gonna happen if something unexpected breaks or fractures.
Dean |
al hang
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 09:49 am: |
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Dean, we used ratchets on those bolts. Did take longer than a minute each, but that tool fits nicely in my tool bag. I wouldn't get that other compressor simply because of the way it looks - i'm sure it's strong and all but Kyle's ridicule would be too much of a deterrent... BTW Brian good luck on your project, if you need a hand or just want somebody to check your work you should post here. There is always a nearby discowebber to help. |
Kyle
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 10:21 am: |
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Actually Al , that is THE spring compressor to use. It reduces the time of the job sbstantially...
Kyle |
Ron Ward (Ronward)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 10:34 am: |
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Kyle, how does that big red unit from Harbor Freight work? I can't tell from the picture or the description...
Ron Ward |
Kyle
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 10:48 am: |
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The big ones work wonderfully. As Dean stated , you just get it situated on the springs right and run the bolt up with an impact. It will squash the spring in a few seconds. No need to remove brake lines and bolts and bars and shit... After all , you just wanna change the springs ,,,,right ??
Kyle |
David Gage (Davidg)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 10:58 am: |
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Ron, it is sitting on it's side in the picture. The hooks go over the coils and you turn the screw which pulls the springs together and you pull the spring out. I have been renting one of these things for the past 15 years...So I just bought one! |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 11:17 am: |
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No doubt - all other styles of spring compressors are garbage compared to this style - assuming you got the room to use it (plenty on a disco)
Bill |
Greg P.
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 11:20 am: |
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Can that harbor freight compressor be used without an impact wrench? ie with a socket or box wrench? Also, is there anywhere in PA to get one or a similar one without ordering it? I would need it tomorrow if I were to get one. |
Jeremy (Highmile)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 11:40 am: |
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Click on 'Retail' at the bottom of the Harbor Freight website. They do have stores throughout the US. |
Greg P.
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 11:43 am: |
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I did. Nearest one is about 270 miles away. That's why I thought someone else may make one, or that someone may stock that product. |
David Gage (Davidg)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 11:44 am: |
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Greg, I have always used it with socket wrench. You have trouble getting the impact wrench in there. |
Neil Flanagan (Electriceel)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 11:49 am: |
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http://www.people.vcu.edu/~ahang/Mark/spring1.jpg
Is that pic distorted or does the compressor really bend that much?!?
Neil
94 D90 #1092
97 Disco |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 11:55 am: |
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Greg, you could use hand tools with no problem, but it'd be slow. An impact even with a long socket fits in there quite well - no problems. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 11:59 am: |
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Neil,
Nothing like cheap threaded rod to give you the scare of your life eh? That picture is not distorted. I'd hate to be around if that thing let go.
-P |
Mateu
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 12:14 pm: |
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Jeez, anybody want to buy new Craftsman compressors? Only used once.
Going back to Joe's post up there... I had to Dremel off that nylock too. PITA. I could not get channel locks or vice grips far up the shock tower enough to grip the top of the old Woodhead shock. The beast just kept turning with every turn of the ratchet.
It's a broken record by now, Brian, but DO have all the right tools on hand. Get the combo wrenches and the sockets that Kyle mentions in the tech section here on Dweb. Offhand, I remember using the 13mm, 19mm, and 11/16 alot. Also, the ratchet extender is a must for the shock tower nuts when doing the front. I didn't worry about buying all the tools I didn't already have, they'll be used again and again I'm sure. |
GP
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 12:31 pm: |
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Just called Harbor. To get one sent overnight would cost an additional $61 in shipping..... yikes. And that would only get it here by Friday.
Oh well, guess we have to go with another option. |
alhang
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 12:40 pm: |
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I'd hate to be around if that thing let go
hehe, yeah me too. that's why i let my friend hold that bastard in place while i snapped the pic. but seriously though, those springs on the dodge are rated at around 550-650ft lbs. if you use that type of compressor on a rover spring they will compress quite easily. The set used there was borrowed from a friend that works on a fleet of dodge trucks, as long as you use common sense you'll be fine. |
Mateu
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 12:41 pm: |
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BTW, the Craftsman compressors DID NOT FLEX at all like these scary things: http://www.people.vcu.edu/~ahang/Mark/spring1.jpg
J/K about selling them. I'll use them again for the spring retainer job.
Any of you in the Chicago area are welcome to borrow them. However, had I seen the harbor freight ones before I did my install, I would have got those. |
Garrett #2
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 01:16 pm: |
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All this talk about having to cut the Nylock of to remove the shock is only necessary if you are changing the shock too right???
I'm new at this and plan to install new springs soon but not shocks.
How much easier is it to just replace springs?? |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 01:25 pm: |
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Right Garrett #2
The front springs are held in by nothing but the weight of the truck so those are easy enough. The rear springs have a steel strap holding them down and they are held by two bolts. Those sometimes rust and cause problems, but once they are off, its just the weight of the truck holding them in so again, pretty easy.
-P |
GP
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 01:25 pm: |
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So the Craftsman version with the safety pins is pretty safe to use on the rover springs? I am doing my install tomorrow and after reading this thread think I should use a spring compressor to save time and to prevent the removal of so many parts. I can probably get my hands on the Craftsman version from a store tonight, but the Harbor ones are a fortune overnighted or take forever to get via normal shipping. |
Mateu
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 01:34 pm: |
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GP,
The Craftsman worked well for me on OME HD's. The hooks are just a tad too small for the girth of the coil, so the pin does not push in. But the shear force of the spring against the hooks holds them in. They aren't going anyplace.
I would add that when doing the compression, carefully plan the position of the spring before placing the compressors on either side, particularly plan where the coil ends will be seated as you decompress, otherwise, the coils might be in the way when you want to put the retainer back on. I had to recompress on both sides to fix this, even though I thought I'd eyeballed position pretty well. Also, don't put the top hook of the compressor too high up on the the top of the springs because when the decompression is almost finished, the room you have to turn the compressor bolts is greatly reduced. At the end, I could barely get a quarter turn.
M |
Greg P.
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 02:13 pm: |
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Is it possible to follow any of the methods and not use a compressor? Does it really work? Just curious. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 02:30 pm: |
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As I mentioned, I don't use a compressor at all. I use the jack under the frame, and the axle stand on it's lowest setting under the axle. Works great.
-P |
Mateu
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 02:59 pm: |
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I wanted to do it without compressors, but the axle was not going to drop far enough to unseat the rears without popping some lines. The fronts were compressor-free. Perrone's method might have worked. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 03:18 pm: |
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What lines got in the way?? I thought your lines in the rear were the same as the RR Classic???
-P |
Mateu
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 03:34 pm: |
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Perrone,
They were in the center of the axle. They weren't in the way, just had no slack. By the time I'd gotten to the rears, I didn't feel like poking around down there to see if I could find a way to give them slack. The swaybar could have come off to give me a few more inches, but those nuts were darn near fused. Tired, grumpy, etc, I let it go. Sears is about three blocks from my house, so I just went and picked up the compressors to be done with it. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 03:44 pm: |
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You're still running swaybars? Now I understand the trouble. I would never try replacing those springs without a compressor if the swaybars were attached. That is a royal pain.
-P |
Mateu
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 03:53 pm: |
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P,
Tell me about it on the difficulty. With the compressors, it was fine though. At this time of year in the Midwest when I'm not likely to be offroading, I don't want to give up the little extra stability on the road. I know that I can drive it fine w/o the swaybar, but I don't want it on my conscience if it's off when my wife's driving. It's just a big car to her. It is still the family car most of the time. I'm shopping for quick disconnects soon. I know some guys get rid of them full time, but I just want both worlds in our case. Until I get disconnects, the thing's staying on. I tested those nuts, not friendly, and like I said, at the time I didn't want to add another time killer to the whole job. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 04:04 pm: |
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I took mine off a couple of years ago and never looked back. With firm OME shocks or Bilstein shocks, the difference in the ride is not that great. With MD shocks the difference is quite noticiable.
Although none of the fasteners on my sway bars were rusty, they were an absolute BEAR to get off. That was the first time I needed a pipe extension. I didn't have one at the time, but a quick trip to Lowes set that right!
I thought about the disconnects, but I really didn't want to be down there fooling with things more than necessary. If you have someone near you with OME HD shocks or Bilsteins, and the swaybar removed, take a ride in their truck. I think you'll be surprised by the handling.
-P |
Mateu
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2002 - 04:20 pm: |
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P-
Sounds logical enough to me. I'd do it if my wife didn't drive it. She never drove a car her entire life until just a couple years ago. She never had the need to drive growing up in an urban metropolis in Europe. Even if there's the slightest indiscernable advantage with the bar on, I want her to have it. The Aedofabs disconnects are a snap, check out the tech section here on the subject. Thanks for the advice BTW.
M |
Brian
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 04:50 pm: |
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Great input guys. I will make another attempt to find a compressor since it seems worth it.
Thanks again. Once I'm done with the install, I'll report back on this thread how many fingers I ended up loosing and how many times I lost my temper.
Brian |
frank williams
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 06:46 pm: |
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i did the cb lift on my d1 & found it to be easy compared to other vehicles such as cherokees. i didn't have to disconnect swaybars or anything else--just used jackstands & let axles droop as far as they could with wheels off. on the front i used a ratchet strap to slightly compress the springs but didn't need them in the rear. |
Greg P.
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 06:51 pm: |
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Well, I got my RTE 2" HD spring and rancho 9000's installed today and didn't end up needing the spring compressor. I ended up using a combination approach from 3 different articles and used a floor jack and landrover bottle jack only.
Now that it's in, I noticed lots of clanking and noises when test driving. I'm not sure if I didn't tighten the shock bolts enough or if something else is making the noise. I'll have to check it out tomorrow. Anyway, the install worked okay without the compressor, but think it would be pushing it with 3" shocks unless you disconnected lots of hardware. I only had to disconnect the front sway bar in the whole install. |
Greg P.
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 06:55 pm: |
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Well, imagine that. I just read the instructions on the ranchos and dummy me just realized I forgot to put the sleaves in the bushing when installing them. Good thing I don't have to pull the springs tomorrow to go back and put them in.
Anyway, hope that fixes things, and I think it definately explains the clanking around I heard during my test ride.
Guess I will have to break that habit of install first, read instructions later. |
Ron Ward (Ronward)
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 08:35 pm: |
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Greg,
I had to use compressors to get my RTE 2" HD shocks in on my D1. I don't have sway bars so they weren't a problem. I found that the length of my brake lines limited me from too much flex to get the springs in and out. I know you can unfasten the retaining clip and gain another inch or so. Is that what you did?
Ron Ward |
Greg P.
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 08:45 pm: |
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Ron,
Yes, I unfastened the brake line retaining clip from the spring bracket. I also detached the rear brake lines from the first plastic clip running along the top of the frame. This gave me just enough extra lenght to rotate the springs in. I used my bottle jack to push the axle down while my floor jack held the frame up. Did one corner at a time. I fully intended to remove the sway bars for install, but on my 4+ month old 2001 DII, I had so much trouble getting the nut off the ball joint. I even presprayed the bolt, but when the first try I almost striped the torx out, I decided to try it with them on. I will eventually add quick disconnects, but want to extend my brake lines first. Anyway, tomorrow I guess I will be undoing shock bolts one at a time and putting the sleeve in.... stupid, stupid, stupid. Hope I can do it without too much trouble, but I dread having to take the damn wheels off again. I'm beat from my 6 hours today.
And, to plug Rovertym, John is a very good dealer and a stand up guy. I had an issue with a missing bolt and bolt length on my bracket, and he very generously provided me with a gift certificate for my trouble. I just ran down to Napa and picked up a replacement, no big deal, but I thought I was very good of him to provide such service. Thanks, John.
Greg |
Brian
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 09:51 pm: |
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Well, UPS dropped off my springs today. I'm a little puzzled- all four springs are tagged with a "PS". I expected two "DS's" and two "PS's". Am I missing something here?
Brian |
Kyle
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 09:56 pm: |
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They match springs so your truck sits level...
Kyle |
Brian
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 10:14 pm: |
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I understand the matching part. I just don't understand why they sent me four passenger side springs.
Brian |
Kyle
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 10:16 pm: |
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Drivers side and passengers side springs are different lengths and make the trucks lean. Therefore they match them ps/ps for one customer and ds/ds for others , that way everyone sits level..
Kyle |
Brian
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 10:58 pm: |
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Well, that makes alot of sense . . . passenger side springs on the drivers side. I should have thought of that earlier. I hope this is the ONLY thing that makes no sense on the install.
Brian |
Kyle
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 11:22 pm: |
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Would make more sense to you had they shipped P/S and D/S and your truck leaned.... 
Kyle |
mateu
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 11:29 pm: |
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Brian,
Mine are all PS. It sits totally level.
M |
Brain
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 11:46 pm: |
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No Kyle . . .it would have made sense to ship PS springs that went on the passenger side and DS springs that went on the drivers side- and while they're at it . . . design'em to fit that way so it wouldn't lean.
Am I the only one drinking from filtered water? |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 08:40 am: |
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Ah, Grasshopper....
But you're driving an English vehicle now...
They are designed for a RHD world, so when brought into a LHD world, things don't work out quite right w/ spring labelling.
It just happens that by using two of the same springs, PS/PS or DS/DS instead of DS/PS, that on a LHD it comes out to as close to level as you could hope for on a vehicle that has had its springs swapped.
Clear it up, Brian (or is it Brain??  )?
-L |
Greg P.
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 12:14 pm: |
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OKAY, HERE IT IS. THE BEST WAY TO PUT 2" SPRINGS/SHOCKS ON A 2001 DII:
What you really need:
18mm combination wrench
1/2 or 13mm combination wrench (if installing rovertym lower shock mounts)
T-30 torx "super Hard" bit - if removing lower sway bar ball joint.
Floor jack (SUV 3 ton jack with 21" lift $49 at sears)
Bottle Jack - use the rover one
Lug wrench - use the rover one
wheel chocks - use the rover ones
1 small socket (forget size but to undo bracket holding brake lines to rear spring bracket)
THAT'S IT. That's all you need. I've done this twice now, as I stupidly forgot to put the metal sleeves inside my shock bushings.
Basically, lift one corner at a time with the floor jack under the frame to around 3/4 of the height. Loosen the lug nuts and lift the axle with the bottle jack. remove the tire. lower the axle. remove the shock bolts. Take bottle jack and put over axle to push further down. watch the brake lines for overstretch and thats about it.
On the front, I did have to undo the sway bar, but found it is better to remove at the upper bolt if you are not taking it off, as you wont have to mess with the torx part of it. I'm leaving my sway's on until my next project is complete which involves extending brake and abs arms.
Anyway, the point of my post is to let anyone doing a DII by themselves know, it is easy to do if you combine a few of the different methods listed on the internet. As well, I have yet to see anyone say that the bolts primarily use 18mm. Most everyone keeps putting 3/4 or 19mm which is too large on my DII. As well, I recommend a 12 point wrench to reduce rounding.
This is not a complete write up or instruction listing, but hopefully it gives the next person an idea of the easiest way and keeps you from buying too many unneeded things, per all the other instructions floating around. I ended up returning an unused set of jack stands and spring compressors, as well as a second floor jack.
Sorry for the long post.
Greg
[email protected] |
Greg P.
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 12:19 pm: |
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oops, should have read brake and abs lines.
Also, don't forget to undo the brake lines on the rear springs before jacking the axle down. I was able to loosen the lines out of the first clip holding them on the frame as well for an additional inch of stretch.
I did not have to remove all sway bars, or the forward cross member or the radius arm bolts. I could see removing the front cross member if you really want so the front drive shaft doesn't hit it during the axle articulation, but I didn't remove mine and it worked just fine. For 3" shocks, I think it could be done the same way as above, but you would have to remove the front cross memeber and the brake clamshells before pushing down. At anyrate, hope this helps some other lost sole like myself.
Greg |
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