| Author |
Message |
    
Matt M
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 04:40 pm: | 
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I've only ever done this on a motorbike before -
Anyone got any tips / hints to help.
Thanks
Matt. |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2002 - 08:01 pm: |
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Here is the quickie version:
Pull the wheel off. Generally, clean the area around the brake with brake cleaning fluid. Release the bleeder screw just enough to allow the brake cylinders to slide back in, push the pads back into the caliper (so the new pads will fit). Be careful not to scratch the rotor (I used a piece of wood). Be sure to push both cylinders back in evenly. Remove the retainer pins, remove the old pads and drop the new shoes back in. I usually rough up the pads by scraping them them on concrete before installing them. If you don't have the anti-squeal pads on the back of the brake pads, be sure to add some anti-squeal to the back of the pads and let it setup for 30 to 45 minutes.
Bleed the brakes when you are done. There is more information on brake bleeding on the Spanish Trail Land Rover Site. You don't need to bleed the ABS components if you are careful. I'd recommend that you go out and get a cheap brake bleeder kit to make the bleeding easier (about $10.00 at Sears, Pep Boys, etc.). If you can find a short section of hose that fits tightly over the bleeder screw nipples, then you don't really need the bleeder kit. Also, bleeding the brakes is much easier with two people (one pumps the brakes while the other opens and closes the brake bleeder screw).
Thanks,
Mike B. |
Matt M
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 10:07 am: |
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Cheers
I've got it done now.
Most of my time was spent getting those damn wheel nut covers off ! (I've got a set of locking wheel nuts) Is there an easy way of doing this ?
The drivers side disc (rotor) has got a band of scraping around it on the outerside - will this go with wear, or should I replace the disc ?
Matt |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 10:18 am: |
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What?? Nut covers?? NO!!!
You leave the covers IN-PLACE!!!! Just put the tire-iron over them, then turn. They're not supposed to come off!
Sounds like you needed to change your rotors, too.
-L |
bob
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 11:28 pm: |
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DUDE> THE NUT COVERS STAY ON. DONT TAKE THEM OFF. |
Roger Fastring
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 08:47 am: |
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I dont bleed the brakes for discs. When you remove the caliper, just open the top of the brake fluid resevoir, the take a C-Clamp and using the old brake pads, clamp the caliper to the old brake pad and screw in, making the caliper piston go in, making room for the pads to come out and new in. When you put the caliper back on, screw the cap back on the resevoir and pump the brakes once when you start her up. Never have done the brakes on the rover (bought in Dec) but should work just like all other disc brakes I've done. Saves the bleeding issue. |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 05:34 pm: |
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Roger: knock off the LR lazy rover owner approach. It doesn't suit brit iron. And brit iron doesn't reward neglect. At 30-40k, replace the brake fluid. Period. LR spec is 30k.
Note to you: Leavin' it in there is no virtue !
doug james |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 07:09 pm: |
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Leaving old brake fluid in is false economy. Not only does it give you brakes that fade under heavy use, but as it takes on water, it begins to rust all the lines from the inside out. I mean, buying enough fluid to completely flush the brakes is under $20. Why risk your safety?
-P |
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