| Author |
Message |
    
BJ Turner (Wturner)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 09:57 am: | 
|
I am starting to see very small specks of what apears to be rust on the surface of my white paint. Mainly on the driver door right by the rubber window seal.
I am told that it is NOT through the paint, but just on the surface, possibly rail dust, from when the car was brand new and transported on the train, the dust settled on the fresh, still soft, paint.
Someone suggested Mothers clay majic or any product of the sort. Just basically a clay brick that you rub on the paint that removes any impurities.
Does anyone have experience with this stuff? Or could anyone suggest another solution? |
Hank (Disco_Tex)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 10:00 am: |
|
Good ol' WD40 is what I would use. If its just surface rust, it should just wipe right off with no harm done to your paint. |
Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 10:17 am: |
|
WTurner i had the same nightmare, or so I thought, on another car. It turned out to be rusty bits from the license plate holder falling onto the bumper and looking exactly like the bumper was rusting. It won't come off, even with much rubbing, although I haven't tried any compound. I'm just happy its not the big R |
BJ Turner (Wturner)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 10:39 am: |
|
I don't know if WD40 would work, because I have a pretty abrasive sponge that I have used while washing as well as my finger nails, and I can't get it off. I will try it though!
BTW the Clay that I am talking about is only $14, so it is not a loss, I just don't want to mar the paint any more... |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 11:01 am: |
|
WD40 is bad for paint. Keep it away! |
David Dryden (David914)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 11:08 am: |
|
You might try using a mild paint polish/glaze like McGuire's. If it's on the surface, it'll come off.
While we're on the nasty subject of rrrrrrust... I have the dreaded C-Pillar and Alpine window rust syndrome. Anybody know what the usual procedure is for getting rid of this problem? I've given up on getting LRNA to fix it (believe me, I've tried!). Is it expensive? What can be done to keep it from coming back, besides keeping it from getting wet? (Shuh...right!) Anyone have any success doing it themselves and getting decent results?
David |
BJ Turner (Wturner)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 11:24 am: |
|
By Alpine windows do you mean these?
If so, I have rust there too (my vehicle was previously owned in Florida). There mine is through the paint though, so I know that it will take a body shop for repair, so I didn't mention it before.
Unless, one of you kind chaps has a quick fix!!! |
BJ Turner (Wturner)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 11:26 am: |
|
I went to a body shop yesterday about this, and they told me about the clay, and for the windows, they said that to be done right the WHOLE roof would need to be repainted after the bondo work is done.  |
David Dryden (David914)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 11:38 am: |
|
Yup, those are the windows. There are small bubbles along the bottom of the window rubber on both sides. I kinda suspected they would have to repaint the whole roof to "do it right". What was the bad news ($$$) for the fix? Have you checked the bottom of your C-pillars where they meet the wheel wells? If not, you might want to have a close look. As I have found out, this is a common problem and LRNA won't help you unless you can prove to them that a dealer has done an "annual corrosion inspection".
David |
BJ Turner (Wturner)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 11:44 am: |
|
Mine is only on one side (far as I can tell). They didn't mention a price, I couldn't even squeze a ballpark out of him (trust me I tried). So I am still in the dark on that.
He actually said that they would repaint just that spot and re-clearcoat the rest of the roof.
I don't know about the spot where the c-pillar meets the wheel well, I am not real clear on where you are describing. I thought all that was aluminium and wont rust. (??) |
David Dryden (David914)
| | Posted on Friday, March 29, 2002 - 02:12 pm: |
|
Au contraire my friend! The entire roof structure is steel and apparently not even galvanized. I guess it's a safety/structural thing. As far as the c-pillar rust goes, open your rear side doors and look down at where the c-pillar (the part the door strike is attached to) stops and the wheel well begins (the curved part). There is a small gap at this joint which I suspect is part of the problem. I believe that water runs down the c-pillar and hits that flat area and wicks up into the joint causing the rust. I would really like to get some feedback from someone who's fixed a number of these to find out the correct way to repair the problem. |
David Dryden (David914)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 07:18 am: |
|
Anyone?... |
SteveCz
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 03:55 pm: |
|
Here's one approach...
(scroll about 33% down the page)
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Discotech.html
SteveCz |
David Dryden (David914)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 04:33 pm: |
|
Thanx for the link! The repair doesn't look as severe as I thought. Is that Willow Green? Nice rig. Can't wait to see when it's done.
David |
|
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page