| Author |
Message |
    
brian kluge
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 03:42 pm: | 
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I want the fog lights to work with the high beams (I'm actually using these wires for different aux lights). Anybody know which wires in the relay I need to splice together to make this happen???
Thanks,
Brian |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 04:09 pm: |
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I changed mine 2 -3wks ago. I now have:
1-fog lights with park lamps , and
2-fogs with low beams (per orig)
3-fogs w/ hi beams (non-orig)
As before they turn on/off w/ stalk mounted switch.
How: Remove the fog switch(pull it out, it slides.
Remove the column cowl 2 pieces surround the key area. Run big diam wire from the big red wire of the stalk route out of the way over toward the fog switch. Insert it into the cut wire that is blue w/ grey tracer. Easy and great flexibility ! cheers- doug |
JRoc
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 05:31 pm: |
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Brian, Fog lights with high beams sound a bit out of the ordinary. Fog lights work best when mounted real low, in that the beam stays below the fog. They recommend that in heavy fog or snow you turn your headlights off and run just fogs. It's been my experience that in heavy fog, highbeams actually reflect back at you. I was considering mounting fogs in the grille and decided against it because the grille mounts so high I think it'd be useless. Instead I'm probably going to go with cornering lights on the grille and pencil and/or euro on the roof. If you already know about all this then disregard the info. Good Luck |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Saturday, March 30, 2002 - 05:39 pm: |
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JRoc: you are entirely correct, and I think the issue for him is max lite regardless of fog/snow/ lo vis, etc.
The EXACT reason I rewired mine as mentioned above was to get the fogs on with only the park lamps, as lows + fogs is often too much. So there you go. doug |
Milan
| | Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2002 - 01:26 am: |
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Yeah, I use fogs on regular basis to illuminate the ditches (to see deer and other critters) even when there's no fog. |
Douglas Jones (Ozaukeedoug)
| | Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2002 - 09:30 am: |
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Brian is using the wiring harness from the factory foglights to run some roof-mounted Hellas, they won't be used for fog  . |
brian kluge
| | Posted on Sunday, March 31, 2002 - 08:13 pm: |
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Hey Doug James,
Thanks for the info! But could you explain to me what you mean by "Remove the column cowl 2 pieces surround the key area"? I'm pretty slow so if you could give me more details I'd appreciate it. I slid out the switch and I see no red wire or blue/grey wire coming from the switch.
Milan, yep, I want to do the same thing you're doing -- I want to find those woodland creatures before they find me.
Thanks guys,
Bri |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Monday, April 01, 2002 - 03:01 pm: |
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Brian:
The 95 RR (DI same) has a 2 pc plastic cowl that 'covers' the steering column; starts adjacent to strg wheel, goes forward to the dash instruments.
The ign key is 'surrounded' by it. It has 3-4 small screws you approach from under; remove them, then separate the 2 pc surround. Gives complete accss to the stalks/wiring/ign switch, etc. Cheers- doug |
brian kluge
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 09:52 am: |
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Doug James: THANKS!!!
You're right, that was super simple and works awesome.
(FYI - In case anyone is thinking of doing this, the "blue/grey" wire on my '98 Disco was actually blue/black.)
Thanks again,
Brian Kluge |
SG
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 11:55 am: |
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As long as we are on the subject....
I want to rewire the 'fog light' circuitry to be dipped with the high beams. When the original bumper and fog lights where removed for the Safari Gard front end and three Hellas, I used the existing circuitry to power the driving lamps, but with a suitable relay near the actual point of usage.
Of course, the existing circuitry extinguishes the auxillary lights when the high beams are used - as it should be with true fog lamps. How do I swap this over?
The setup above sounds like you are finding an alternate power source for the switch itself, which is not what I want to do. I simply want to rewire the existing switch to work in conjunction with the high beams.
Cheers |
brian kluge
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 12:38 pm: |
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Mr. Cheers:
What we're talking about here is exactly what you want to do and we ARE using the original switch. My original 'fog light' wiring harness was no longer used after I put my ARB on so I hooked up aux lights to this wiring harness but I wanted them to also work with the high beams. With the modification perscibed above, I now can use these lights with low AND high beams as well as when just the 'running' lights are on.
Make sense? Hit the cute switch on the dash and the "fog lights" stay on with all three different lighting scenarios.
Tks,
Bri |
bakluge
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 12:43 pm: |
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I just read Doug's post above again. When he said "remove the fog light switch" he was only telling me to do that so I could gain access to the blue/grey wire that I need to splice with the red wire. After splicing, just slide the switch back in.
Bri |
SG
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 05:11 pm: |
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...OK, but then won't the auxilary lights stay on when you dip the high beams?
It is my intention to have the aux Hellas work in conjunction with the high beams. I've traced the circuitry through what seems like fourteen pages in the electrical trouble shooting manual - and on the car. Even located the relays for the 'fog' lights which are actually hell-and-gone from the lights themselves - about 8 or 10 wire feet away - which pretty much negates the whole purpose of relays in the first place.
I'll trace the blue/grey wire and see what's what....
Thanks |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 08:40 pm: |
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BK: Glad it worked out. |
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