| Author |
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Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 10:14 pm: | 
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Surfing the web, found this, hadn't read it before. Thought that you all could appreciate it:
"The V8's are good engines but helplessly outdated. They accept a lot of abuse but are very sensitive to oil change intervals. If you miss them or use cheap oil a black sludge will quickly build up. This starts to block oil passages so some components will no longer get enough lubrication.
First to go are the hydraulic followers (lifters) and they wear immediately the camshaft. This is hard to detect at first but once the wear starts it can't be repaired. Once the Polished surfaces are worn the process will go faster and faster. All you hear is a slight ticking noise as the followers won't pump up so giving a ticking. It can be seen when you remove the intake plane. There's a great power loss but as it comes very slowly you can only feel it when comparing to another Rover V8. Idle will not change much, it even may run smoother. And you must change the cam and the followers together as the hardened surfaces work on each other and will not accept a used counterpart.
Also the V8's are more sensitive to overheating. Look at the special page for this. (http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Overheating.htm)
Another design "fault" is the outer row of cylinder head bolts. If you torque them down as described in the repair manual they will exert enough leverage to slightly push up the middle side of the head. This is only measured in 1000th of an inch but if you push the throttle high pressures in the cylinders will push a very slight amount of burning gasses into the water/oil galleries. This makes for a very hot running engine if you push it but it behaves normal under standard situations. Also oil gets burned and turns into a sort of tarmac, covering the internal surfaces and blocking oil galleries. Make sure you always have antifreeze in the coolant, even for short tests."
Interesting.... it could explain a lot...
FWIW....
-L |
Brad Russell (Bradnc)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 02, 2002 - 11:19 pm: |
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I don't know about other people on here but my last car was a 96 Isuzu Trooper, and when i bought it used it was tickin' like a maniac. My dad and i rebuilt the upper half of the engine, replace the upper cam shafts and the intake valves, lifters, etc...Talk about a job...At least that car led me to my rover though....it was totalled one night (the other guy's fault) which allowed me to get my 97 SE, which i've had now for half a year and am in love with...
Brad |
jp
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 04:08 am: |
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Most of these comments relate to the early engines - especially the oiling supply. The top end (pre 76) was poorly oiled, and rocker shafts and rockers died, and the metal didnt help any. When the oil pump and galleries were improved in the SD1 engines, a lot of these problems went away. The stuff about outer head bolts seems to be true - if you have them, current recommendation is only do them up to ~ 20ft/lb. I have seen old engines with the valley cover blown upwards badly due to pressure from gas leaks into the valley from the head gaskets - front and rear crank seals then follow, and leak like a sod. Alternative is to use later composite gaskets, and skim head to retain CR level. Bumping oil pressure relief valve upwards is not recommended, as the system needs volume delivery, not pressure to do its job - 15psi idle, 30-40 hot running is fine. I have a 74 with 125K mi up, still gives me 45psi, but it gets regular oil changes - 3000mi/5k km
jp |
tenacstud
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 12:03 pm: |
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Thanks for posting this hopefully it will help me resolve my over heating problems. |
Dee Cantrell (Disco_Dad)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 07:23 pm: |
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Bilstein makes an excellent process to remove the sludge and varnishes that build up on the internals of an internal combustion engine and also remove the fine swarf (Ultra Fine Metallic Particles) that is the real killer of an engine. You can read more about it here.
http://www.motorlife.com/
I had it done a year ago it did make a noticeable difference and not to confuse this process with a can of gunk before an oil change it apples and oranges. |
Neal Glessner (Nealg)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 11:20 pm: |
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Nice to see you back Dee. |
muskyman
| | Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 12:46 am: |
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hey dee
watch it dude your sounding helpful...lol
nice to see you here |
Ron
| | Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 01:22 am: |
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welcome back!
Here is some free advertising
BUY STUFF FROM DEE and NATHEN
www.discountrovers.com
They are less expensive and have top quality parts
Ron
PS I have a weird parts order in with your partner |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 08:49 am: |
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Ron,
Would we expect any less from you?? lol.... 
Speaking of, Dee, I've decided I need the other exhaust gasket, too.... thought it'd be better to swap 'em as a pair.... I'll email you or Nathan about it later... maybe today maybe tomorrow, depends on how the day goes...
-L |
Dee Cantrell (Disco_Dad)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 01:33 pm: |
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Sounds like i might be getting baited as a "Parts Whore" if i answer that one" LOL |
Dee Cantrell (Disco_Dad)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 04, 2002 - 01:36 pm: |
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Ron,
Weird parts orders for LR's naw no such thing. LOL |
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