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A. W.
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 03:46 am: | 
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Hi everyone, wondering if someone can help. The engine on my 95 disco is producing loud ticking noise, I took it to a regular mechanic, he told me that the oil pump is bad and that there was very little oil circulation, that damaged an important metal component (can't remember exactly what, a new one costs about $120, possibly the hydraulic followers (lifters)). He said that I also need a new oil pump, and a few extra parts.
My question is, is it common for the oil pump to fail in the disco (mine is 1995 with a lot of miles on it), is there anyway to know if the pump is really bad or not. Maybe the problem is not with the pump, I'm doubtful that it is after I read the next article here on DWeb, the cause could be missing oil changes (I just bought the car a couple months ago) ../2/2269.html"#444444"> |
Curtis Couch
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 04:47 am: |
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Hey A.W.,
I also have a 95' Disco with 118k on the odometer. I have the same ticking noise, I read in one of D-Web discussion groups that there is a thing called a "cam button" that was used in a recall for our models. I have not checked into it, but was told that this causes a ticking noise as well. This is probably not much help, but at lest you now know your not alone (if it�s any consolation). So if anyone can help, there are now two Disco brothers in need of advice.
Thanks in advance,
Couch |
charles
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 10:13 am: |
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Mine is a 97 disco. Over 190K my noise started at 40K. It only lasts for a few minutes until warm then goes away. I was concerned at first but It became a PART OF LIFE.
Charles
SATX |
A. W.
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 02:26 pm: |
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Thanks for your input guys. The ticking noise in my case by the way doesn't happen when the car is cold only. |
derek (Vortrex)
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 02:42 pm: |
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hey my '95 with 67k on it does it too. I'm probably going to have my mechanic listen to it this week, I will let you know what he says. |
Norm
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 02:52 pm: |
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Is there a "B" at the end of your engine serial #? If you have the "B" suffix motor with the serpentine belt and oil pump integral with the front cover, cam knock probably isn't the problem. The "B" suffix motors have a cam shaft thrust plate plus a peg on the inside of the front cover that supposedly eliminated cam walk.
It may be a bad rocker arm or a sticking valve. You can have your mechanic remove the valve covers and run the motor (for a short time) to see if the problem is in the upper valve gear.
What's the mileage? Has it ever been run out of oil or overheated? |
A. W.
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 08:52 pm: |
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Thanks guys. I will check my engine serial #, but my mechanic told me that there was very little oil when he opened the engine and that a bad oil pump caused this mess and damage, in his opinion. And yes, the car overheated once recently because there was little water in the radiator. |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2002 - 09:01 pm: |
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the "ticking" noise may also be caused by bad exhaust gaslets..... |
Norm
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 12:19 am: |
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AW --
Get yourself a factory workshop manual and have your mechanic go through the "engine noises" section. If he can't find the source of the noise easily, your motor may be cooked. Running out of oil is bad enough, but overheating can be fatal to aluminum block engines. The ticking sound will just get worse and worse until it either blows up or drives you nuts, whichever occurs first. Unfortunately, there's no guarantee that rebuilding your old 3.9 from the bottom up will eliminate the ticking noise -- especially if its been overheated AND run out of oil -- take it from someone who's been that route!!!
On the bright side, if your motor is truly cooked, consider it an opportunity to drop in a new 4.6 motor (with a fuel map chip). In the long run, it's probably cheaper and more successful than trying to rebuild your old 3.9 and you'll be much happier with the power increase.
Check out the RPi website.
---Norm |
Joel Dorfan
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 10:34 am: |
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We have had ticking noises in both a 95 Disco and our current DII. In both instances it was a leaking exhaust manifold gasket. Cant really hear it at idle but if you rev slightly then you can.
Also, at idle, cover the exhaust pipe (careful not to burn yourself), if there is a leak it should get more obvious.
Good luck.
www.worst4x4.freeservers.com |
grant
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 11:13 am: |
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ticking that goes away? check exhauats manifolds for cracks top and bottom. as the engine warms up the manifold expands and cracks seal up.
my mechanic takes them off and welds them, no replacing required depending on where the crack(s) are. left one has been replaced, right one os starting to tick louder. |
A. W.
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 04:17 pm: |
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Thanks guys for your help. Norm, the mechanic claims he knows exactly what the ticking noise is and he said he will fix it, also the car only overheated once because of lack of coolant in the radiator, and never did it again.
Also, I will have to check the exhaust gaskets that everyone is talking about, I don't know much about them. Thanks again. |
Stephen Lincoln
| | Posted on Sunday, April 14, 2002 - 05:45 am: |
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I have a 95 Disco that has had a ticking rumbling noise since basically new. It has now done some 155000 km. I have learnt to live with it since it has allways been there. I thought it was a faulty lifter or cam thrust problem but have let it go
I would not worry about it. |
Rob Sanders
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 12:53 pm: |
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I took my 95 Disco to a Land Rover dealer with the same ticking noise. He said it was in need of a cam button. Cost for the button, $32, cost for labor was $416!!! For that price. i'm learning to live with the noise. |
Mike J. (Mudd)
| | Posted on Friday, April 19, 2002 - 05:48 pm: |
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I had an exhaust manifold bolt back out and... It made the ticking noise. Check to see if all those bolts are actually in place. $3.99 for the bolt from the dealer. rip off but at least I didn't get fooled into the engine rebuild B.S. |
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