| Author | Message | ||
     Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) New Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 26 Registered: 05-2003 |
Alright no haters in this thread regarding the overseas thing (PLEASE  ) Anyway, I know to stay away from the 95-96 Disco's but how much should I worry about say the 97-99. I'm looking from a cost perspective a little bit to get an idea of what would be the better bargain. Using ebay as my example here let's say 1999-2000 Disco II's with about 40-50K seem to go anywhere around $20K or so, some a little more some a little less but they seem to hover around that range. (I'm okay with that) Now a 97-99 Disco one with similar mileage (obviously should be more but around that same mileage) might go anywhere from under 10K to around 15K or so.... Obviously it is on a car by car basis, but is there really much of a problem if someone is lucky enoguh to come across a low mileage Disco I for about 5K less than a year later disco? I know about the the road handling and improvements (especially electrical if I'm correct) but I'm wondering the other advantages. Warranty is not much of an issue with me either since it will only be valid no matter what until about January February when I leave. So a short warranty would be good but not too essential. | ||
| Peter J. Kelly (Pjkbrit) New Member Username: Pjkbrit Post Number: 6 Registered: 05-2003 |
Night and day....the Disco2 is that much better in every way. I loved my Disco1....but there is really NO comparison, more power, smoother, more refined, MUCH better handling, MUCH better built, Bosch injection that actually works reliably....spend the extra $5K Pete | ||
| gp (Garrett) Senior Member Username: Garrett Post Number: 2094 Registered: 10-2001 |
i would not say night and day. i have a '96 D1 with 86k and my girlfriend has a '00 D2 with 50K. the D2 certainly has a little more pickup and is a bit more civilized. has more room as well. what are you using the truck for? all highway use? hell don't ask me i am too partial. but then again eventually we will all be driving D2's and Exploders. i will be buying another Discovery in the next year or so and will be getting a '99 D1. i just like them more. some things with them are just more simple and are better suited for being a good wheeling truck. i don't agree with the "MUCH better built" statement. even jen misses her '96 D1 and wishes she had it back over her D2. D2 might be a better choice as a family car, but the D2 can't match the D1's abilities off road and ease of being trail maintained. and i just don't like all the extra "fluff" the D2's have.....ETC, TC, HDC, etc. just more shit you don't need that will eventually break and cost you $$. i would look for a cherry '99 D1 with low mileage. they are going very cheap just about anywhere and are quite abundant. | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) New Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 30 Registered: 05-2003 |
Yeah well it definitely wouldn't be a complete wheelin vehicle. It would be more of the family vehicle but with a family who likes the outdoors. Camping, hunting things like that but not necessarily just off roading. I've been looking both ways and I've found some good deals (damn misprints, knew they were too good to be true) | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 342 Registered: 04-2002 |
99D1 would be the choice! Of course I'm biased. My friend has a 99D2 and it's nice. Like stated above, what are you using it for? The D2 has a big arse and more plastic to break. CDL anyone? Save the 5k. Purchase goodies and begin a "non-dealership" fund for repairs. You will need it regardless of model! | ||
| Dan Armbruster (Dan_armbruster) Member Username: Dan_armbruster Post Number: 148 Registered: 04-2003 |
Peter, you have some very intersting views on the disco. I have driven a D2 and own a D1. Handling and cargo room are obvious benefits in a D2, but I'm not sure about being built better. For the same mileage and an extra $5k in my pocket, i'd go with a pristine D1 (97-99). My friend's D2 has had many more problems than my 98, but I guess it is a disco to disco basis. | ||
| Roland Kutasi (Disco1) Member Username: Disco1 Post Number: 156 Registered: 10-2002 |
I'm with you D1 guys because I am biased! I don't like the old "Brownie box camera" effect(idiot proof), that is, just point and click (the computer will do every thing for you). I like to have some input which unfortunately is rapidly disappearing. Basically, the more equipment/functions that become computerised, the more helpless you become when something goes wrong. It is interesting to note (in regards to Idiot proof cars) that manufacturers are already intergrating their wiring into circuits. What this means is that in the not too distant future, you won't be able to hook into it to run your aftermarket driving lights, radio etc. The latest model Range Rover, has I believe done away with some of the fuses and has a system where if the current surges, the wire shrinks. What this means is you cannot change the fuse and it becomes a dealer thing. It will only be a matter of time before the Disco inherits it. Frightening stuff! | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) New Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 32 Registered: 05-2003 |
ALright well I'm looking into D1's now but should I really avoid 96's? There is a guy actually about a mile from my house selling a 96 disco, 5 speed, for like 9-10K I believe...Only 56K on it... | ||
| gp (Garrett) Senior Member Username: Garrett Post Number: 2095 Registered: 10-2001 |
10K is still very high for a '96 regardless of mileage. if you can afford it stick with a '99 D1. you will have fewer issues in the long run, as well as, a truck that is 3 years younger. in my opinion just get the newest (mileage and condition as well) D1 you can find for the $$$. then tweak it accordingly. check www.lrx.com for pricing. | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) New Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 33 Registered: 05-2003 |
What would you think is a good price for that 96? Also what would be a good price for a 99 D1. I see a lot where people are trying to get d2 money just because of the year. | ||
| gp (Garrett) Senior Member Username: Garrett Post Number: 2096 Registered: 10-2001 |
location, condition, mileage and options all determine the cost of course. for a '96 i would pay from $7-9K for one. depending on the variables above. and for a nice '99 D1 i would think between $14-16k is average. least from what i am seeing. these are not asking prices, but prices you should be getting the truck for. i have seen them cheaper and more expensive than the prices i have listed. gives you an idea. like i said.....check other sites for listings and shop around. lots to choose from. | ||
| Chad Mayes (Cmayes) New Member Username: Cmayes Post Number: 28 Registered: 04-2003 |
The 9-10k for a 96 is high, unless it has lots, and lots of offroad goodies. And even then goodies only add value if they're valued by the buyer, and never at full price. I have a 95 and have loved it. No major problems (knock on wood). Like mentioned above, there doesn't seem to be one right answer. As these trucks get older the reliability, value, etc seems to be quite truck specific. Just something to consider; on any vehicle purchase, where one year is not that different from the next, a older truck with comparable mileage has depreciated more in dollars than in useable life (doesn't apply in all cases). So, if you find a good truck that happens to be a few years older save yourself the depreciation. Whatever your decision, invest in a pre-purchase inspection from a good, trusted, independent Land Rover mechanic. There are certain quirks that Rover’s possess that a good mechanic will acknowledge is part of life with a Rover (leaky power-steering) that the dealer might say needs replacement at huge dollars. There is a fine line to what’s normal and what needs fixing that’s where a good LR mechanic really adds value. I’m sure a D-Weber can point you to a good mechanic in your area. Just my 2-cents. | ||
| Will Weatherford (Wweatherford) New Member Username: Wweatherford Post Number: 12 Registered: 02-2003 |
FWIW - I got my 99 DI back in Jan for @$16K w/ 45K mi on it. Immaculent inside and out. She's equipped with all the safari gear, incl. the adventure rack, which has yet to have been used. I immediately put a yamika roof fairing to silence the incredible wind howling. Some slight wear on the alloy rear rims, indicating prev. owner may have had some spinning in the dirt! Issues to date have only been an overheat problem, which was corrected (t-stat and rad flush) and a P1316 fault code, which was cleared after replacing plugs. Was not purchased from LR, but they remembered outfitting the safari gear. Had the OME HD springs added, cut the rear quater panels, twin airlockers, compressor, antisway bars, etc. She's tough enuf - parts for D1 are more available for off-roading than D2 it seems. Depends what you want to do w/ it. I feel I got a good buy on it | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) New Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 34 Registered: 05-2003 |
Well the timing issue looks like I'll be shopping in the N. VA. area for the next few weeks. So if anybody has any recommendations for that area I would love to hear them. Anything 95-up is game the way I look at it. My wife is almost leaning towards an older (possibly 97) so we can beat it, and not have to worry about losing our asses if we sell it a few years from now. Gotta look at where the most depreciation is ... Like I said, any ideas I appreciate. I'll be in the Herndon, Dulles Airport area so I'll start in that section first I guess.. | ||
| Craig Caruthers (Pbilt) New Member Username: Pbilt Post Number: 1 Registered: 05-2003 |
Hey, guys.....My vote is for the D1 as well. Especially if you plan on trail use. I bought a super low mileage '99 D1 lease return about two months ago and love it! I talked with the local Rover shop beforehand so I knew that's what I wanted for trail use. As stated in other posts, the D2 has a lot of fluff that's pointless for good off-roading and expensive to fix when it breaks (and it will.) Look for the newest D1 and enjoy! | ||
| Robert Smith (Robsmith) New Member Username: Robsmith Post Number: 12 Registered: 12-2002 |
I would soundly endorse looking for a 99 DI. We looked at both 99 DI's and DII's when we were buying about a year ago. The DII was a little nicer and cushier, but the DI to me had a more solid feel (less gadgets between you and road/trail), and the CDL which we wanted. For a few $K less it was a clear choice for us. The bigger issue I suppose, was an end of line vs. start of line arguement. The 99 DI was the last of its kind, with most all of the bugs worked out in preceeding years. The 99 DII was the first of its kinds, with lots of bugs yet to be worked out. We wanted a truck we could hang onto for a long time, so grabbing a DI at the apex of its refinement seemed to make sense. I would also highly recommend looking for a factory certified truck at a dealership. We probably paid a few thousand more, but we're warrantied to 100K and the dealer has already put a few thousand into it in repairs in our first year. If you don't have the time/skill to do most of your own work these trucks can be pricey to maintain. I plan to do my own work, but this way I've got a few years to ease into it Good luck in your hunt! Rob | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) New Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 35 Registered: 05-2003 |
Yeah but the problem with me and factory warranties (already called LR NA) is that they will only honor them in the US and Canada. I will be overseas starting in Jan, so the warranty and cost with it would be wasted. A nice 6 month warranty would be perfect, just to make sure everything is on the up and up before I leave. | ||
| Chad Mayes (Cmayes) New Member Username: Cmayes Post Number: 35 Registered: 04-2003 |
Kevin - Try to negotiate that into your purchase. Most dealers will give you at least 90-day warranty. | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) New Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 36 Registered: 05-2003 |
Man I need to start reading but the time off with packing and getting ready for the move, leaves with doing way too much research regarding this purchase. Now I'm looking that 96+ discos basically will all need valve jobs no matter what. It's just a matter of time. Is this true, or do some of those tricks (water/seaform and vacuum hoses do the trick to keep it running right) | ||
| Kevin Fedyk (Kovert) New Member Username: Kovert Post Number: 39 Registered: 05-2003 |
I think I might look into a high mileage Disco I and just pay cash for it. Then no payment, and just repair bills I guess Hopefully not too many... Only problem is my wife doesn't want WHITE or BLACK | ||
| Christopher Dynak (Adtoolco) Member Username: Adtoolco Post Number: 244 Registered: 08-2002 |
Hey all...not flaming just bringing up a point for the sake of argument. "Fluff" has been brought up a few times as a con for the D2. Could anyone elaborate on the term. Am I assuming that D1 ABS is better or more stought. Or are ETC and Hill decent being indicted. Anyway I can shut off both ABS and ETC if I start mt D2 with the CDL engaged. So if thats a concern there is a remedy, at least for early D2's with the CDL mod. Is there anymore "fluff" that I am unaware of? -Chris | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Senior Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 265 Registered: 10-2002 |
D2 is longer behind the rear wheels...I removed the rear bumper on my DI and still scrape the corners on steep inclines. I hope the lift and new bumper I am designing will solve that problem though. | ||
| Christopher Dynak (Adtoolco) Member Username: Adtoolco Post Number: 246 Registered: 08-2002 |
The big ass is a given con...nothing to do there but replace plastic with a beefy steel bumper and do as much trimming as necessary. I wouldn't call the big ass "fluff". | ||
| Peter J. Kelly (Pjkbrit) New Member Username: Pjkbrit Post Number: 7 Registered: 05-2003 |
I never meant to say the D1 ain't a cracin' motor....mine was, and it was 'simpler'....but for highway/family use I think the d2 is waaaay better. And frankly, off road it's pretty good too....limited by the rear overhang, yes....and more expensive to fix....yes....flaky electrics like the d1....well yes....comes as standard. I still think the D2 is better assembled and the design work in the overall chasis is better...more rust resistance, fewer water traps, definitely more solid construction... Finally, Bosch injection beats out Lucas every time and is reason enough to go with the D2 IMHO. Pete | ||
| david summers (Texmoto) Member Username: Texmoto Post Number: 48 Registered: 12-2002 |
I have to agree with Pete. The big butt can be a limiting factor. However, CDL vs CDL w/ETC is no contest. I just got back from Moab (apprently just missing Axel & company) and the D2s consistantly had an easier time than the D1s, especially when there was sand on or around the rocks. I would go for a 99 or 00 D2 and add a CDL handle. That's my $0.02. David | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 11 Registered: 05-2003 |
well, i just got a 95 D1 3.9, for $4,065 w/ 145k. it is in darn near perfect condition. i am just fixing little things like the low irratic idle problem. evrything other than that on it seems to work fine, and drives fine. i have the front guard and rear step and lugage rack on top. we too will be going 3,000 miles into the mayan jungle of mexico, and we didnt want to get something too new or too posche b/c we know it will take a heck-a-va beatin,getting parts dented or broken. PLUS we think that since we are 15min away from belize LR, that parts may be cheaper b/c it is part of the UK..no import taxes ?? right?? if you guys think this is bad thinking, SAY SO NOW! and i will sell the darn thing for $7k!! (but then you'll have to tell me what else o buy..b/c i have no clue on what would b-able-2 handle the rough roads of central america..do you?? |
