| Author |
Message |
    
dchrismon
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 12:55 pm: | 
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I have a 1998 Series I. The problem is that the cruise just stopped working. I have checked the vaccum it appeared fine and the switch on the dash to turn it on is lit. Any help with this would be appreciated. |
Steve H
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 01:32 pm: |
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Check the brake pedal cutoff switch. If you look at the metal support that runs in front of (steering wheel side) the brake pedal you will see two plunger type switches, these are activated when you press the brake pedal in. I can't remember which one is the cruise cutout but I think it's the bottom one. pull it out and test with a multimeter. Just remember the switches are "active" when the spring loaded plunger is extended. |
Lloyd Perrin (Lp2906)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 02:37 am: |
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I've got a similar problem...
Problem:
Intermittent Cruise Control failure.
Symptoms:
When driving at highway speeds (or any speed over 40kp/h), and the cruise control is activated, it won't always come on. It's like there is no suction at the actuator.
What's been done:
1. I've replaced the vacuum hose that runs from actuator and tested that the actuator can maintain a good suck! The result was OK. I even tried the same test with a new actuator in place. The result was the same, so my deduction is that the problem is not with the actuator, nor the vacuum hose.
What next?...:
It strikes me that the Vacuum pump is probably the culprit. This is an expensive little part, so I want to eliminate any other logical options before I go out and buy a new one.
Can you suggest any other likely points of failure, or basic checks that should be done to confirm the above? |
dchrismon
| | Posted on Thursday, April 18, 2002 - 04:17 am: |
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Thanks for all of the help. I located the problem, it was the hose comming from the firewall it was split at the end where I couldnt see. I cut off the split end presto fixed problem. I know now what to do if it goes out again and it isnt the vaccum. Thanks again |
Roger Fastring
| | Posted on Thursday, April 18, 2002 - 04:31 am: |
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How hard was it to find that other end of the hose that goes thru the firewall? My CC has never worked (bought my 95 D1 used) and I watch all CC threads closely and try their solution, someday it will work! I've replaced all the lines except for that one. Any tips? |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 18, 2002 - 05:45 pm: |
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That 'other end' terminates at the brake pedal switch-located under the dash, just above the floor; it activates the shift interlock and releases the CC. When you're at speed, and tap the pedal, vacuum is 'dumped' instantly, and CC is deactivated.
Beyond that juction, you could check the 'adjustment' of that switch itself, as it's involved.
Check that you have vacuum in the system; just suck on any terminating end point-not the 't junction'. Should hold vacuum if rubber lines are fine.
After 4-5 yrs in a hot engine bay, the lines basically rot; certainly, the ends split. cheers- doug |
justin
| | Posted on Thursday, April 18, 2002 - 06:00 pm: |
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Just out of curiousity, what would one check if the cruise light itself doesn't even come on... Is the brake the culprit for this as well... just curious.
thanks
justin |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 18, 2002 - 07:51 pm: |
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The lite would be part of an elec circuit, apart from the mechanical part=(that's the vac sys) The lite could come on and the vac be inop. Alternatively, the lite could fail and the system may-probably not, actually-work.
Conjecture: the ECU for the CC would perform a lite check; in the event that a lamp was not working-regardless of causation-it would prohibit the cc from activating. The logic on this being that an operator wouldn't be notified that the cc was working/selected if the lite didn't work. I think the lawyerly types wouldn't be keen that it work with a lamp out....I am far from an elec guy though. cheers-doug |
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