| Author |
Message |
    
Randall Phelps (Randall1411)
| | Posted on Monday, April 08, 2002 - 11:22 pm: | 
|
Welp, here we go again. If anyone has encountered a similar problem, please let me know. i'm running out of common sense solutions. i've got a 96 DI with ~85,000 miles on it. About a week ago, it started having problems starting after it had been sitting for a while. Now, if i let it sit for more than 15-20 minutes, it takes about 30+ seconds of cranking and pumping the gas to start. once it does start, it idles rough for about a minute. (the tach is relatively stable, but it causes a bit of cabin jitter). after that, it runs fine. and if i turn it off, it will crank fine, so long as i don't let it sit for more than 15 minutes. i replaced the plugs this weekend to no avail. got to thinking tonight, and checked the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel rail...was EXTREMELY pressurized a few moments after turning the engine off (spewed gas everywhere), but had NO PRESSURE after sitting for about 15 minutes. this isn't right, is it? shouldnt there still be fuel pressure? if i just move the key to the on position without cranking, i can hear the fuel pump pressurize the system. but if i go to crank it after letting it sit (even if i give the pump a few moments to pressurize in the on position), it takes quite a bit of cranking, and won't start unless i press the gas pedal a few times. any ideas? somehow it seems as if the fuel pressure is backing away from the engine. i've NEVER replaced the fuel filter (shame on me..i bought one tonite, will change tomorrow)...any ideas BESIDES the pressure regulator? and if it is the regulator, has any one changed one of these out? this is nerving....having such a great truck and looking like an idiot when it doesnt want to start...not to mention the wear its making on my starter... |
Curtis C.
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 12:04 am: |
|
Hey Randall, you have just described the EXACT problem I am having with my 95'(EXACT). I have changed all the plugs,plug wires,distributor cap and even my fuel filter (no change). I have came to the conclusion that it is my fuel regulator and plan to replace it when I have time/$ to do so, unless anyone out there has any other ideas.
Curtis |
Randall Phelps (Randall1411)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 12:16 am: |
|
hey curtis, read this post: im going to check mine in the morning, you might want to double check yours as well....
../2/2268.html"#444444"> |
jp
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 06:41 am: |
|
Randall,
The pressure reg is easy to do on a 3.9, b@stard on a 3.5l. I would get a gauge on the rail first though - 30 at idle with vacuum connected, 37psi without vacuum connected (but plug the lead into the back of the plenum). check the hose on the regulator for gasoline smell - if any there, the regulator is leaking, replace it asap. Mine improved with a filter change also, so do that if you dont know when it was last done? Also check ALL hoses into plenum for air leaks, and breathers for clear.
jp |
JMcD
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 08:34 am: |
|
Sounds to me like you have leaky fuel injectors. The fuel rail starts to 'rust' small sand like granules and they can cut or damage the seats where the needle sits on the fuel injectors. It happened to my 96 and seems to be a VERY common ailment. I did the same things as described above, replace plugs,wires,ECTS,battery,etc. to no avail.
It could be the fuel pressure regulator but it is probably the injectors. There is an easy way to tell which one. Test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Turn the engine off and see how quickly the pressure drops. I don't know what rate is acceptable but on mine it was very obvious, it dropped rapidly!!
NEXT, repressurize the system and this time when you shut off engine CLAMP off the fuel line BEHIND the fuel pressure regulator, use something that wont cut or damage the fuel line.
If the pressure still drops rapidly with the fuel line clamped it is most likely bad injectors. They leak into the cylinder causing a 'flooded' condition, which is why it takes so long to start, and when it does one or more of the plugs are likely fouled which is why it idles erraticaly.
It may be something else, but do that test and that should tell you what it is. Good Luck....
JMcD
ps. If it is the injectors I found www.atlaticbritish had the best price when I did mine, I paid $450 for all eight. Also you can have them rebuilt as some people have said on previous threads. I would have done that if I didn't get them for so cheap. |
JMcD
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 10:10 am: |
|
ps. If you do replace the injectors you must remove the fuel rail and intake plenum. Might be wise to replace the valve cover gaskets at that time if they are leaking. Takes 5 minutes once the plenum is off. JMcD |
bryan
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 10:24 am: |
|
Randall,
I had the same symptoms you describe on my 95 100K. I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter but nothing helped. I bought a new fuel pump from discountrovers.com a month ago....problem solved. |
Rossie
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 09, 2002 - 08:50 pm: |
|
Randall,
I just posted a message with exactly the same problem and had the LR do all the tests as described in previuos messages. It is definately your injectors and at the mileage is right on.
Nathan at [email protected] sells them for $59 new - made by same company that makes the genuine LR part or there is a place that will recondition them for $23 but for the price difference I'm going to put new ones on and not take a chance. I was going to replace the fauly one only but once the rail's off might as well do them all.
I'm looking for help doing it myself so if you have any ideas, let me know how to do it. I don't have LR manual since this is the first thing to go wrong |
Randall Phelps (Randall1411)
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2002 - 12:19 am: |
|
Welp, replaced the fuel filter today, and the problem disappeared. Looks like it was the original filter, with 86,000 miles on it. guess i got lucky it wasn't the injectors! |
jp
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 10, 2002 - 02:04 am: |
|
To check it is or is not injectors leaking down, you would need to eliminate the non-return valve in the pump as a cause, probably by clamping the incoming fuel line to the rail, just as you turn it off. If the pressure still drops fast, then its probably injectors.
jp |
Curtis Couch (Couch)
| | Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 12:02 am: |
|
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you guys, but I have been pretty busy. Anyway, I have (to the best of my ability) checked the injectors, per JP's instructions, and now - I do not think that the injectors are the problem. To add to my above comments (Curtis C.) I will elaborate on the fuel pump pressurizing or lack-there-of. As I turn the key, the fuel pump does not pressurize like any I have heard before. After turning the key to the first aux. position, I do not get the "ticking" noise that I have heard from my other vehicles - as the fuel pump pressurizes the fuel rail. Instead I get more of a "jolt" that sounds/feels more like I turned the key slightly - to start the ignition. I am pretty sure that this would have something to do with the fuel pump being/going bad, but seeing as I do not have the TIME/$$$ to waste on a hunch, I would like some "insurance" on my thoughts. You guys/gals have saved my butt many times in the past and any feed back would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Curtis. C |
|
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page