| Author | Message | ||
     Chad Mayes (Cmayes) New Member Username: Cmayes Post Number: 40 Registered: 04-2003 |
I've got a 95 D1 that is starting to show the slightest signs of rust around the alpine lights. I want to pull the windows and treat the area before it gets too bad. I know this is common but when doing a search I couldn't find a thread on removing the windows. Has anyone done this? Any tricks? Any good tricks or products to use when resealing the windows? Thanks. | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 115 Registered: 02-2003 |
Remove the center section of the rubber gasket and that will allow you to remove the glass. If you have rear a/c then there is more work to do. At this age gaskets arre beginning to get hard and loose flexibility and replacement will not be a bad idea. To reinstall, place gasket in window aperture, and using dishwashing liquid carefully reinstall the glass. | ||
| Jonathan Hensel (Nanoscale) Member Username: Nanoscale Post Number: 65 Registered: 03-2003 |
I did it, couldn't find any help either. And I was going to document it, but had left the digicam in the motor home 150 miles away. Sorry that was stupid. Suffice it to say, it's not difficult, but getting it back in is tricky and messy as all hell if you are sealing the whole thing with silicone as I did. It took a weekend down just to let the multiple coats dry. Got it out, ground off all affected metal, sanded it down and painted it with 3 coats of rust inhibitor, then 2 coats of primer, and two coats of matched touch up paint. Then ran a fat bead of clear silicone all inside the channel in the rubber seal and somehow got it back in. The "rope around the lip trick" didn't help much, I ended up with a gooey string sitting in the back of the thing. Took two of us pressing and feeding rubber in and around the lip to get it worked back in, then 2 hours to clean off the excess silicone. Seems to be holding up and can't tell a thing. And mine was pretty far gone starting to bulge the rubber. Oh I forgot, it had eaten through metal at one part underneath the rubber seal so between the rust inhibitor and the primer I filled it with Bondo. Then sanded. And sanded. | ||
| M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Senior Member Username: Lrover94 Post Number: 810 Registered: 02-2002 |
i understand that there is a speical LR tool that is used to re-insert the bead on the rubber seal for that window. mike w | ||
| Chad Mayes (Cmayes) Member Username: Cmayes Post Number: 43 Registered: 04-2003 |
M.K. - I used on of theses tools on a 1990 BMW windshield. The special tool does help, like most "special" tools it's not absolutely critical it just makes the job a whole lot easier. The one I bought was like $10-$15 through an after market Bimmer catalog. I'm sure you could find one at a good auto parts store. | ||
| Ron Poole (Pooley) New Member Username: Pooley Post Number: 2 Registered: 05-2003 |
In also had the problem and also found replacing the insertion rubber really difficult. Lots of detergent and an occassional beer coupled with some mild swearing also helped. I managed to do both sides in one day. The quote for one side was $300.00 Australian, (about 3 days work for an average worker) I was told not to use silastic as it often has an acid base and can affect paint, in particular new paint. I used the old gooey black windscreen sealer. Finish looks god , lets hope it stays that way. A question,,, has anyone any pictures of where the rust apears in the rear door panels or sils? |
