| Author | Message | ||
     Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 5 Registered: 05-2003 |
my 95 disco runs good whilst driving.. but at stop lights it runs light crap! it rpm's a hair above the 2nd line on the tac-OH-meter(pun), and it acts like it wants to stall. plugs and stuff are changed...i am checking the stepper motor as we speak.. what other things should i check for..(no leaks or cloggs. i have a check eng light, but i dont know how to check the codes. i will need step by step guidence on this one. make it easy as 1.2.3.4me.. thanx! | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 123 Registered: 02-2003 |
This has been covered before..so check archives Wires could be loose....start there | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1564 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raf: This is a common problem on these engines. As your truck has high miles, nearly anything could be the culprit. First off, clean everything up. Remove the plumbing from the air flow meter and scrupulously clean the inside of the butterfly and housing (not the airflow meter!). Make sure the timing is spot on (had a Rangie in the shop last week that the timing was so far off, it wouldn't idle at all!). Clean up the IAC valve and the port it fits into, both sides (remove the hose to clean the intake side). Check the ignition, both primary and secondary. Paul | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 248 Registered: 01-2003 |
Check under your passenger side seat for a black box. It will have a led number code on it, mine is so dim I have to read it in the dark to see it. Then refer to; http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/RR/FAQ.Engines.Fault.Codes.html for the code read out. My obd1 code reader was attached to a bracket facing the rear passenger side seat. There is a red relay thing, factory amps if so optioned also under that seat too. Once you get the results post them here, maybe we can help. While your in the stepper motor clean out the tubing and hosing, just pull them off and spray a carb cleaner on them. Also check you for loose wires to the MAF (on the intake pipe), and anywhere else. Check or renew your air filter. Once we know the code maybe we can figure it out. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 7 Registered: 05-2003 |
i'll check on everything this weekend, and write u guys on monday. | ||
| John Pitman (Jp928) New Member Username: Jp928 Post Number: 1 Registered: 04-2003 |
Check for air leaks - damaged vacuum lines etc. These will make for bad idle, response etc. Check the fuel pressure vacuum lead from regulator to rear of plenum is ok and fitted to its nipple. Also line to vac tank for heater controls (near lf corner). | ||
| marc olivares (Pugs) Member Username: Pugs Post Number: 74 Registered: 12-2002 |
"scrupulously clean the inside of the butterfly and housing (not the airflow meter!)" paul, for the record, there no reason why a maf can't be cleaned. i've seen this posted repeatedly and it's unfounded. Selig industries manufactures a product called "lectron 2020" i have used this product to clean MAF's of various makes as well as electronic control cards, ecu's, and computer control boards. a high quality contact cleaner will clean the pickup wires in a maf and will improve air measure readings. Raf, this isn't a maf issue, check vacuum or ignition sources. marc | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 14 Registered: 05-2003 |
ok.. i have a code 44. could that be the problem? the o2 sensor? i have tried to get other codes on my 95.. but i dont think the instructions andy gave will work on my 95 disco 3.9.. how can i get the other codes? or erase this code? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1570 Registered: 02-2002 |
Marc: Whether the MAF can be cleaned or not, is it necessary? It is very likely that there is a huge build up of crud in and around the throat of the intake butterfly that probably should be cleaned. I agree with you that this is likely not an MAF issue, hence my directing him not to clean it. The OBD readouts on these vehicles are only effective in diagnosing certain failures. For all the rest, good old fashioned process of elimination is required. Now, he got a code 44, indicating a right bank oxygen sensor fault. To clear this code and reveal any others that may then be read, under the passenger side bolster, there is a five pin white connector with one wire connecting both sides of the connector. With the key in theon position, disconnect the white connector, wait five-ten seconds, reconnect. Turn key off, wait for relay to drop, turn key back on. If the light remains lit, there are additional codes to be read, if not, the one failure code was the only one appropriate for the running conditions encountered. PEace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 15 Registered: 05-2003 |
pual, i have done all that.. but the 44 code still pops up. what am i doing wrong? i think i may be disconnecting the wrong cable.. there is a cable w/ black connectors to the display, and another cable that plugs into a box. is there another connector that i m missing?? i have followed the process trying with all these cables and 44 still pops up. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 16 Registered: 05-2003 |
where is the MAF? Where is the butterfly?? where is this stuff located that i should clean? it's not in my manuals. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1571 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raf: The cable you should be disconnecting is beneath the glove box. You'll need to pull the cardboard down to gain access to the connector. The mass airflow sensor is the box with wires going to it located between the air filter box and the intake plenum. There is a big-ass rubber hose connecting the two. When you remove the hose clamps at both ends and remove the hose, you'll see the butterfly inside the opening to the plenum. It is very likely pretty nasty looking in there as all manner of crud collects here as the crankcase breather is plumbed up into there. To some extent, this is grabbing at straws as the most common culprit for this is the stepper motor, but you've done that and the rest of your vehicle is in an acceptable state of tune. Next on the list is fuel pressure, fuel filter, and then, we'll see what remains. Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 17 Registered: 05-2003 |
could it be the o2 sensor cuasing my beast to idle bad? | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 250 Registered: 01-2003 |
I agree with Paul, check out your fuel pressure. Changing the filter is also a good idea if you haven't done it in a while. O2 sensor would cause poor fuel economy and probably a high idle. Do as Paul says, reset the reader by the connector he mentioned and see if it reads any other codes. If your fuel pump is failing it could be that your pressure of the fuel is to low at idle. Also check everything on the truck, ignition spark and timing, vacuum lines, crankcase breather lines, plugs, wires. If your confident about all of those, looks like it's time to start replacing things. How many miles does this truck have? What have you done to this point to fix the problems? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1572 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raf: It is unlikely that your Oxygen sensors are causing the rough idle. Usually, failing sensors only cause poor fuel economy. Unfortunately, due to the black-box nature of these vehicles (to those of us lacking testbooks), we are to some extent stuck not knowing if the problem is fuel or ignition related, hence the reliance upon brute-force troubleshooting. Then again, even if the testbook were to indicate a problem, there is no guarantee it isn't something really stupid causing the response the testbook saw as being something else. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 18 Registered: 05-2003 |
so far i have replaced with new: cap, wires, stepper motor. would any of the things you guys mentioned sow up as a code? i'll check the codes when i go home today. so, i bet the black-box test at my lr dealer would be the highly expensive route? (not that i would do that.) | ||
| M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Senior Member Username: Lrover94 Post Number: 819 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raf, i am experencing the same basic problem just minus the OBD code, my truck is at the local LR shop, (LR of Dayton). i will let you know hwat they say. mike w | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1574 Registered: 02-2002 |
OK, Raf, now we are getting somewhere. First off, replace the plugs!!! What about the ignition rotor? Once we get these done, we can then look at the base idle. If I remember, your truck has some mileage on it. But, first let's put some new psark plugs in it and see if that makes a difference. Some will tell you to only use a particular brand/type of plug. The Champion RN11YC are the standard (IIRC), but I have used just about any plug you can think of with not much difference. In fact, about the best luck I've had has been with Autolites (#65) from Wal-Mart where they cost $1.97/2 plugs! Let's see if we can get your truck running better. Peace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 20 Registered: 05-2003 |
the rotor looked as good as the new one. it was still clean, no wear, just slight signs of use. the plugs.. i didnt think would make that big a difference,because it idles good in park, but it idles bad only in drive with the brakes applied. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 21 Registered: 05-2003 |
what about the bosche plugs.. they are $.99 at autozone.. isnt bosche the same company that designed the D2 system? | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 251 Registered: 01-2003 |
I'll vote for ngk-r's, I seem to have good luck with them, cost like $28 for all 8. I would do the plugs and fuel filter and see how it runs. But my guess is check the fuel pressure after you change the fuel filter. I was convinced I had a ignition problem and thought my fuel pressure was good. Turned out my fuel pump went bad and didn't give enough pressure so it caused my idle problems. I could have solved my problem much faster if I had just check my fuel pressure and realized it wasn't high enough. The truck ran, just poorly. | ||
| M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Senior Member Username: Lrover94 Post Number: 820 Registered: 02-2002 |
andy, as i have noted i am experencing the same basic problem ole' Raf is having. one of the questions that was asked of me at the dealership today was, had i checked the fuel pressure, of course no. i really didnt think that a bad fuel pump would cause an idle problem and not show up at highter RPMs. i guess i will see. mike w | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 23 Registered: 05-2003 |
well, how can i check the fuel pressure? i'll replace the filter tonight. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 27 Registered: 05-2003 |
mike, is that your white rover posted in the gallery? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1578 Registered: 02-2002 |
W.W. Grainger sells a pressure gauge that screws right into the fuel rail to allow for continuous monitoring. Cost me about $6.00. 0-60 psi range, 1/8" NPTM, back mount, 1-1/2" diameter. | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 254 Registered: 01-2003 |
Mike, I thought that too, but my truck wouldn't idle, but if you got on the gas it would run fine. I chased what I thought was ignition gremlins for weeks. I gave up took it to a shop and he used one of those $6 gauges and realized the fuel pressure was low. Told me a fuel pump was needed, I still didn't believe him till I got a new pump in and the truck runs great now. I even get 16mpg with a full length roof rack with lights and a ARB bull bar on the front. Made the truck feel like I got 20 extra hp. So I bought a fuel pressure gauge at harbor frieght tools for like $5-$10 and have it with my tool kit now. I have also seen them at Autozone, but they where more expensive. Also my truck ran fine cold, but get to operating temp, it couldn't idle anymore. | ||
| Wes Legaspi (Wes) Member Username: Wes Post Number: 138 Registered: 02-2002 |
Paul, Do you have a part # for the gauge you got at grainger? thanks | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1580 Registered: 02-2002 |
Wes: No, I went in and gave them those specs and the guy behind the counter jumped up and ran away! I was afraid I'd said the secret word... He came back with the gauge:-) They'll know what you need. The only problem I have found is that there isn't really enough room behind the gauge to tighten it up on the rail and I didn't like turning the gauge with channelox. I may buy another one and plumb it up so I can have the schrader valve also. A bottom mount might work better for this, but I was goin' for the Bling! | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 30 Registered: 05-2003 |
ok.. i am the dumb one.. but explain how i would connect the guage.. where what SOS! please KISS! (KEEP IT STRICTLY SIMPLE!) | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 31 Registered: 05-2003 |
w.w. grainger?? who are they, and where can i find them or something similar? | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 32 Registered: 05-2003 |
1.need part #!!!!  2.where can i get a fuel pump CHEAP? (I FEEL LIKE THE MIDDLE CHILD...WWAAAHHHH!! this is my thread...i want my mommy!!!!) | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 33 Registered: 05-2003 |
good lord!!! how long do these fuel pumps last??? got a part number? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1581 Registered: 02-2002 |
Fuel pumps should last the life of the vehicle, but they don't. Mine lasted about 135K. I have a fuel pump to a Mazda pick-up in my truck, check the tech section for how to do the swap. W.W. Grainger is a huge industrial supply house, look in the yellow pages or try google, yahoo, or another search engine. On your '95, there should be a Schrader valve on the passenger (NADA) side of the fuel rail (the pipe that runs around under the intake plenum to each of the injectors). Remove the Schrader valve, apply some thread sealant and screw the gauge in. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 37 Registered: 05-2003 |
pual u are tha man yet again! ok.. i have checked the tech section 4 the fuel pump.. no such luck.. any suggestions? | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 38 Registered: 05-2003 |
i just talkd to ww grainger, and they need a part number!!! can somebody throw out a part number for that stinkin guage?? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1582 Registered: 02-2002 |
OK, here goes. Remove rear carpet, there is a trap door, drill out the rusty sheet metal screws, remove hatch. Depressurize fuel system, disconnect wiring harness running to big-ass ring on top of fuel tank, disconnect compression fittings to fuel pump, unscrew big-ass ring around the outside of the pump assembly, withdraw pump assembly. Remove lower basket of assembly to expose fuel pump proper, break the cheap, nasty hose clamps holding the crinkly plastic tubing, tear tubing trying to pull it off hose barbs. Remove fuel pump. Using your back-up car (you have one, right, you own a Rover after all) drive to favored parts store. Walk boldly up to parts counter and ask for a pump that looks like the one you have. Endure obligatory request of parts counter person as to what vehicle you own. After they look at you dumb-founded, repeat request for pump that looks like the one you have in hand. Now, demand the least expensive one they have that looks like the one in hand. Chances are that the one you buy will have the positive and negative connectors reversed, cut the old connectors off and switch them around, reverse disassembly, check very carefully for leaks and motor off down the trail. This is another of those projects where I either tried to take pics, or was too busy doing the work to document-sorry. Peace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 39 Registered: 05-2003 |
pual, look on your reciept or on the back of your guage and see if you can find a number. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1584 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raf: I buy parts each and every day. If they aren't put on an open account, I rarely can keep track of the receipt for more than day (much to the chagrin of my wife and accountant). I'll see what I can find. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 40 Registered: 05-2003 |
i cant stand that dumb-founded look these goof-offs give at the auto store. if you live in a really big city.. the looks get even more DUMBER! so, if you can find a part number for your guage and your filter, just post it. about the filter, you can call the store, they should have it on file. heck, gimme the number, i'll call em for you. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1585 Registered: 02-2002 |
Standard Pressure Gauge, Range 60 PSI, Dial Size 1 1/2 Inches, Pipe Size NPT 1/8 Inch, Smallest Graduation 2 PSI, Center Back Mount Grainger part number 1X798. Via Grainger.com Peace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 41 Registered: 05-2003 |
even better.. just gimme a foto of the guage! front bottom and back. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 42 Registered: 05-2003 |
oohh.. dude! you are the BOMB! no foto needed! | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1586 Registered: 02-2002 |
I may be able to find the part number for the pump. I have posted it in the past... | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 43 Registered: 05-2003 |
ok.. they have the guage for $5.40!! yaahoooo! now for the pump??? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1587 Registered: 02-2002 |
Fuel pump possibilities: Carter P74006 AC-Delco EP-241 NAPA BK-610-1011 and P74006. I have heard of some having issues with the NAPA parts, but at least there is something to go by. I hope I've helped and this turns out to be your silver bullet. Peace, Paul | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 255 Registered: 01-2003 |
Mine only lasted for 107k, I expected more out of it, oh well. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 45 Registered: 05-2003 |
are there any special wiring instructions for these?? any modifications that i need be made aware of? or can i just replace it as is? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1588 Registered: 02-2002 |
When you get the pump, you will see that the power connections are different sizes, but marked with + and -, if the connectors don't mate correctly, cut them off, solder them back the way they need to be and you're good to go. When you pull your old pump out, you will notice that it has an AC-Delco trademark on it! Peace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 47 Registered: 05-2003 |
i will tell you the results on wednesday. | ||
| Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp) Member Username: Mike_rupp Post Number: 193 Registered: 02-2002 |
If it makes you guys feel any better, I only got about 35K miles out of my fuel filter. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 48 Registered: 05-2003 |
just in case.. where is a cheap site to buy a LR fuel pump? | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 256 Registered: 01-2003 |
Check www.roverconnection.com or discountrovers , both should have a good price. Check you fuel pressure first, check the pressure with the car hot and cold. You still may have another problem and not the pump, no need to spend the money if it's not your pump. Those pumps will be stock LR's. | ||
| M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Senior Member Username: Lrover94 Post Number: 822 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raf, yes that is mine in the gallery, at least one of those white rovers is mine. just an update the dealer is searching out the issue, it appears the the fuel and electrical sytems are working well and the testbook revealed no stored codes so now the boyz at LR are searching out others area of possible cures. sorry Raf no good news for you yet. mike w | ||
| Mark McLain (Mtndisco) New Member Username: Mtndisco Post Number: 8 Registered: 05-2003 |
This sounds exactly like my problem, only I now have a little more info. Mine would actually die while driving, then I could let it sit for a few minutes and it would start back up. This was happening about once a week. NOW FOR THE CATCH - It ONLY does it when the air is on...I know, sounds weird, but I have driven 3000 miles without any problem (except it does run bad) and it hasn't quit yet. It does idle bad when hot, and seems to lose power at operating temp. I was thinking a bad Ingnition Amp Module (mine is the old kind on the dist.), but now I am thinking fuel pump. Any other reason the air conditioner would cause problems??? | ||
| Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover) Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 63 Registered: 02-2003 |
Mine has the same problem....w/ the AC on. I was thinking IAS motor bc it doesn't compensate for the change in RPM's placed by the compressor. I unhooked my IAS & at idle with AC on it almost dies. I'm going to be ordering the new IAS shortly. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 54 Registered: 05-2003 |
hey pual..r u there? i got the guage from ww grainger.. but what connection hose do i need? my injector line has a valve similar to the air valve on a tire.. now what? be specific. the grainger guys gave me the "dumb" look again. what size is that male thread on the MPI test valve? what and where can i buy the connector hose? heck.. just send me yours! | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1601 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raf: Pull the Schrader valve out and just screw the pressure gauge into the hole where the Schrader valve used to be. Funny, Summit sells the same gauge for almost $30. | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 257 Registered: 01-2003 |
If the ac is on it adds a load to the system, a bad stepper motor is usually the culprit there. But a low pressure output from the fuel system from a bad pump or clogged fuel filter or clogged and leaking injectors could cause that ac stall issue. As said before, get a base line first, tune it up, clean the crank case breather filter, new fuel and air filters, new plugs and wires, new cap and rotor, check the timing, check all vacuum and emisson hoses for leaks and check all sensor connections and battery connections. Once thats done how does it run? Then check your fuel pressure. | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 258 Registered: 01-2003 |
Raf- do you have a copy of the dealer service manual? If you don't have it, send me an email, it could help you out, I have a copy of it as a .pdf, I could zip to you. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 59 Registered: 05-2003 |
yep, i have evry book and CD in the world on this thing. so.. that valve can come out? will it be under pressure? any warnings or directions? oh. i put in a new filter.. it runs a tad-bit better, but still same ole problem. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 65 Registered: 05-2003 |
pual.. you said "PULL" the shrader valve out? mine doesnt pull out.. it looks like a screw in piece am i looking at the right valve? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1604 Registered: 02-2002 |
Yes, unscrew it, being careful of the pressure of the fuel. Have you read the codes yet? The codes might give us a lot more to go on. We've been beating this truck for a while now and it isn't running any better. We need to figure it out before you lose interest and Kyle tells us to take the Raf and Paul show elsewhere! Otherwise, there won't be anybody left for you to convert! Peace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 66 Registered: 05-2003 |
ok..gimme a minute and i will pull the codes now. 2:51pm will be back at 3:30pm EST | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 67 Registered: 05-2003 |
ok.. 44 and 45... i am guessing the o2 right? so what do you think? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1605 Registered: 02-2002 |
Yep, both of them. Clear the codes by pulling the serial mating link under the passenger side bolster (white connector, five pins, one wire runs to both sides of the connector). Key on, disconnect connector, wait five-ten seconds, reconnect, turn key off, wait to hear relay drop, turn key back on. Start and run engine-if light comes back on, read codes. If the same codes come up, you probably have dead oxygen sensors. Either oxygensensors.com, or Discount Rovers 1-502-8-rovers. I'm gonna be real shocked if replacingthe sensors fixes your driveability, but also pleased that you'll have fixed your truck and become a die-hard. Peace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 70 Registered: 05-2003 |
can dead o2 sensors cause such a problem?? i thought that o2 problems would make the engine run at a higher RPM. teach me,oh wise one the ways of the O2. i wantto know about these things. also.. are there 02 that are cheaper than the LRNA? i heard that nissan could be used instead. teach me oh great one. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 72 Registered: 05-2003 |
my fuel psi is as follows: hot engine: with ignition on only 32psi fuel line hols at 36psi, then drops to 0 @15min. with engine on in park, 28-30psi (needle bounces super fast) with engine in drive the needle steadies at 31psi what do you think? oh.. can i just leave the guage in the motor all the time, or should i take it out? it looks kinda cool to have it in there. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1609 Registered: 02-2002 |
OK, first question-usually, bad oxygen sensors will cause poor fuel economy and performance. Now, having said that, anything that throws a code can't be ignored when working on such a problem as the default parameters are far from ideal. Replace the sensors and we can go from there. Were you here in the shop with such a code showing, I would not go further with troubleshooting until this was corrected. Second question-your fuel pump is probably ok, but the falling pressure indicates a minor problem, either a bad check valve in the fuel pump, a leaking injector, or a bad pressure regulator (my truck does the same, drives me nuts!). I have left the identical fuel pressure gauge in place, for much the same reason! Bling, Bling! The least expensive oxygen sensors are those from oxygensensors.com, but you must solder the connectors on. Those from Discount Rovers (really nice folks) are plug and play. Swapping the sensors out is a painfully simple job-As Ho would say, Just Do It! Peace, Paul | ||
| Bruce Mac Lennan (Bmac66) Member Username: Bmac66 Post Number: 31 Registered: 06-2002 |
Have you checked the Vacuum Advance unit? I was able to continually suck air through mine (vacuum leak?) replaced it and now it idles great. Bruce. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 73 Registered: 05-2003 |
what is a vacuum advace? and where is it? also, put my schrader valve back in, and it is leaking from the valve. pual, are you saying i can leave my guage in and it wont cause any problems or melt or leak? if u say so, i'll do it. how long has yours been in? oh.. after i put my valve back on, i threw a code 48! and it is a new IAC! explain that. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1613 Registered: 02-2002 |
The vacuum advance is the round looking thing on the side of the distributor with a hose running to the top of the intake plenum. The schrader valves sometimes leak... My gauge has been in place for a several weeks now, I intend to leave it there. I use the same style of valve to monitor far higher pressures of far more dangerous compunds than gasoline in the plant. Grainger lists it as a process monitoring valve, and we are only using it in an application that stresses the valve to half of its range, hence I feel it is more than robust enough for conitnuous use. IAC valve, scrupulously clean the casting where the IAC valve fits, along with both ends of where the hose fits. Could be this is your problem. Some folks will blame the NAPA or other source non-genuine IAC valves, however, I have replaced several of them with the NAPA part with no ill effects. Also, remember that the IAC valve is a part that needs to teach the ECU what it is doing so once you clear the code, you may find that running the truck at extremes of throttle positioning may clear this up. The paperwork that comes with the NAPA valves clearly states that the ECU must re-calibrate itself to the response of the new valve. Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 76 Registered: 05-2003 |
go to grainger's site and seewhich one i should replace it with.. 3gc99 is 1-1/2 1/8MPT or 3gd01 1/4 ?? tell me which would be the better.. and if the HVAC will work well with gas. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 442 Registered: 02-2003 |
paul for whatever reason i hear that the generic Stepper motors dont like the disco. my range rover likes it fine... what have you put the generic ones on? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1614 Registered: 02-2002 |
Rob: I have heard the same, but usually from those who scream the loudest that only Genuine parts will work... I have put NAPA stepper motors on 4.2 and 3.9 Rangies, 3.9 Defenders (a 90 and a 110) and a handful of Discos with no adverse impact. BTW-the steering gearbox went flawlessly, including the splined shaft and the universal joints. Slid right apart and went back just as easily (after I stripped the nut with my impact!). So far, no leaks (just jinxed myself, didn't I?). Raf: I'm not sure which of those valves would work, however, I feel more than comfortable leaving the gauge in place. Being a process-oriented engineer and a laboratory trained scientist, I want to be able to determine operating conditions without having to get a tool. With something as critical as fuel pressure on an injected engine, it is handy to be able to immediately rule out fuel pressure as a problem. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 443 Registered: 02-2003 |
PAUL,, hot off the press my meridian ps box is now pissing oil out of the top seal. they are going to honor the warrenty but i need to cough up the $250 refundable core charge. i dont have the money so i'll keep topping off the oil until pay day. hopefully 3rd time is a charm. i was bitching about the time it takes to do the job and the guy told me he knows someone who can do it in under an hour. i told him he was a lier. i'll give it my best effort, personally i'm trying for under 3 hours. fuck i hate that caustic oil. rd | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 77 Registered: 05-2003 |
pual.. i just replaced the inner stem of the valve. i went to advace auto, and took out the old, and in with the new, and...no more leaks. what is a meridian, amd where can i get one and how much does it cost? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1615 Registered: 02-2002 |
With help, it took me about 20 minutes to drop it out. We ran over to the other shop where I have air, busted the arm off in another 10 minutes, stripped the nut in a heartbeat (the old box had been rebuilt and the nut was questionable), then, my helper had to leave, it took me another 45 minutes to finish up, but, my truck had oil everywhere and the bolts came right out... I'd like to say it was harder, but it just wasn't. What amazes me is the guys who in the magazines talk about swapping blowed up CVs in 15 minutes! That's NASCAR pit speed. Good luck, the bad part is that seal Pinion shaft) is only $6.00 at NAPA. PEace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 78 Registered: 05-2003 |
ohh, i put my old IAC in, and it runs the same. BUT this time i get a 44 and a 48. ? will replacing that stepper motor kill the code 48? | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 80 Registered: 05-2003 |
dude, how will i know if my steering box needs replacing? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1617 Registered: 02-2002 |
Let's get the damned thing running smoothly before we start in on the steering box. If it doesn't leak, don't even consider replacing it. Have you scrupulously cleaned out all of the passages to/from the stepper motor? The 44 is a single oxygen sensor. The rough running is almost certainly the stepper motor. The seat must be cleaned otherwise a new one won't do you a lot fo good. If it doesn't seal/open consistently, the engine doesn't know what to do. My money is on dirty air passages. Clean up the stepper motor nose, the passages, put some blue thread sealant on the threads, put it back in and run with it. Usually, cleaning the stepper seat is an immediately noticable improvement. Peace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 82 Registered: 05-2003 |
ok.. i will do it again..i know more now than when i first did it.. maybe i missed something the first time round. raf | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 446 Registered: 02-2003 |
yall must be sprinting, it takes 25 minutes for me to pull the tools out, jackthe car up and take the tire off. then it's break time.. www.meridianautoparts.com sells remanf boxes with prepay core return shipping for all $300 raf, this has nothing to do with your issue, dont worry about it rd | ||
| M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Senior Member Username: Lrover94 Post Number: 824 Registered: 02-2002 |
Raf, as i pointed out earlier on this thread i was having the same issue, with the exception that mine was getting progressively worse. i took my truck to LR of Dayton and after a completing a computer check they could not find a thing worng. thanks to guys there they kept after it and i am glad to report that it turns out to be a bad dist. cap and rotor. fwiw look real real close there. mike w | ||
| Jared Schnelle (Jared) Member Username: Jared Post Number: 127 Registered: 09-2002 |
Raf, I ended up replacing the IAC valve when I was having poor idle problems. It didnt fix it 100%, but there was a considerable difference in the condition of the spring on the valve. The original just looked bad, and I had some peace of mind after replacing the $35 part. Raf, start your car up, and with the hood open, locate the throttle. You'll notice a thumb wheel that surrounds the throttle cable, and it turns left/right, which in turn pulls or lets go of the throttle. Turn this to the right maybe 1/2 turn. You'll hear the engine throttle up. My 95 wouldnt idle very well, and this turned out to solve the problem. What this tells me is 1 of 2 things. 1) This fixed the problem, great. 2) This pointed out to me that the problem is with the idle screw. I need to pull the plug that covers the idle screw, and adjust the idle the correct way. I think it's number 2, but at least I dont have any issues with low idles. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 83 Registered: 05-2003 |
on your napa iac... which one should i get? Echlin Fuel System Idle Air Control Valve http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results _product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15532010&prmenbr=5806 or Mileage Plus Fuel Idle Air Control Valve http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results _product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15548254&prmenbr=5806 | ||
| Jared Schnelle (Jared) Member Username: Jared Post Number: 128 Registered: 09-2002 |
NAPA part# 2-1738 AC Delco part# 25527077 PepBoys: BorgWarner #21738 | ||
| Jared Schnelle (Jared) Member Username: Jared Post Number: 129 Registered: 09-2002 |
They may have to special order it. If you get there before 2:00 they can have it the next day. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 85 Registered: 05-2003 |
also.. at carparts.com.. has anyone any experience with their o2 sensors for $38 part # SG36 cheap..but are they good, and how long will they last. |
