Author |
Message |
   
Matt (Doc175)
Member Username: Doc175
Post Number: 131 Registered: 11-2002
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2003 - 05:53 pm: |
|
I need to replace the clutch hose. My question is that I have been told two different ways to bleed the clutch after the replacement. 1. Just open the bleeder and let it run until it does not drip any more. 2. Open the bleeder and have someone hold down the clutch petal but not pump until it stops dripping. Which is the better method or is there a better way? Thanks
|
   
Eric Brodis (Broder)
New Member Username: Broder
Post Number: 9 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2003 - 11:37 pm: |
|
I would undo line and plug it, that way there will be less air to bleed. |
   
Neil Flanagan (Electriceel)
Member Username: Electriceel
Post Number: 134 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2003 - 11:52 pm: |
|
The easiest way is with a pressure bleeder, otherwise its a two person job. I also reccomend sticking with the factory reccomended Castrol LMA. I used another DOT 4 brake fluid once and had a hydraulic fluid soaked foot a month later. Was it coincedence and the seals just happened to go bad shortly after a bleed? Perhaps. I know the older rover seals were only approved for Castrol DOT 3&4. Soething about the type of rubber. The clutch master is a Lucas part. I say don't anger the spirit, use the LMA. USE ONLY CLEAN FLUID FROM AN UNOPENED CONTAINER. OK With the Motive Power Bleeder: -Attach bleeder to clutch master as per instructions on the side of bleeder and pump it up to 10 to 15 psi. -Attach clear hose to slave bleed screw and insert other end of hose into suitable receptical to catch old fluid -Open bleed screw -Push in clutch pedal(it should just drop right to the floor) -Slide back under vehicle and check hose to make sure all air bubbles are gone. -Close bleed screw -SLOWLY lift pedal back up -Remove power bleeder -Pump pedal a few times, it should regain firmness after one or two pumps. WITHOUT the power bleeder its a bit of a PITA since you need an assistant -Top of fluid in master -Attach hose to slave bleed screw and other end in suitable receptical -Open bleed screw -Have assistant depress clutch pedal. -Close bleed screw -Have assistant SLOWLY raise clutch pedal. -Top off fluid in clutch master -Repeat till all air is out of system Both methods work on my D90 and the system is essentialy the same on the Disco. Oh, I almost forgot. Disconnect the battery negative lead... Good luck. |