| Author | Message | ||
     nobody (Hywy61) New Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 14 Registered: 02-2003 |
Disco II - replaced pads with Ferodos (sp?) at 24K - now have 44K Dealer said I have 40% left on front and 30% left on rears. No idea how the rears got more wear but.. So......at what percentage should I go down to? I can do the math but just didn't know the lowest threshold. Thanks. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1579 Registered: 02-2002 |
When you're rubbing the backing plate against the rotor, you've gone too far. Anything less, you're wasting money. Peace, Paul | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) New Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 34 Registered: 05-2003 |
paual is right! i wore mine down to scapping the rotor.. and then replaced em! yep, i screwed up my rotors, but at least i got the full use of the pads! and i never replaced my rotors.. the new pads seemed to have made the rotors smooth again! (i am being 30% sarcastic..but seriously, justchange your pad when you add 8k,. do as i say, not as i do.)) | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 400 Registered: 08-2002 |
Rover recommends that you change stock pads at 4mm. Likely you could go to less (i.e. 2mm) but as mentioned above, you do not wish to go backing against rotor. Brian | ||
| todd slater (Toddslater) Senior Member Username: Toddslater Post Number: 299 Registered: 08-2002 |
With the D2 when your pads are done so are your rotors...so take'em down low. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1589 Registered: 02-2002 |
I've heard the same things about the Disco I rotors. At 170K, I see no reason to replace them yet. | ||
| Raf usher (Zonamaya) Member Username: Zonamaya Post Number: 51 Registered: 05-2003 |
welll, since you all r talkin... when do the rotors need replacing? normally the pads go first, then years later the rotors | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1590 Registered: 02-2002 |
Disco one, rotor <12 m/m thick, replace | ||
| Jesse Lessard (Jlessard) Member Username: Jlessard Post Number: 48 Registered: 10-2002 |
so what happens if you dont ever replace your roters? | ||
| Daniel Covaciu (Danielcovaciu) Member Username: Danielcovaciu Post Number: 236 Registered: 10-2002 |
The dealer dosent get any off your money? | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Senior Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 305 Registered: 10-2002 |
Supposebly the Disco rotors are "disposable". I am positive it's just another reason to buy more parts from the dealer (a.k.a stealers). I don't see why you couldn't get at least 200-250k miles out of a set of rotors (front, rear should last forever) before they wore below the minimum thickness [for the caliper to work]. I don't plan on changing mine unless I get the crossdrilled/vented ones for heat dissipation. nobody (Hywy61), the reason your rear pads have less is because they probably were not replaced at 24k since normally rears don't need replacing but once every 2-3 times the fronts are. Most pads have a "squealer" that warns you to change the pads soon. It's just a piece of metal, either in the pad's composite itself or next to it that rubs the rotor when the pad gets down to a certain thickness (maybe 10-20%?). Dirt/debri in the calipers can also cause the same sound. I think the Range Rovers actually have a sensor in the pad to where a dash light comes on. | ||
| nobody (Hywy61) New Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 16 Registered: 02-2003 |
not sure if DII have sensors. Jason, I replaced the rear pads at the same time I did the front ones so......i guess it doesn't really matter why they are more worn - just wondering - you would think the fronts wore out quicker The land rover tech i spoke with said the rotors usually last 100K unless you wear the pads down too low | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1593 Registered: 02-2002 |
I rarely see Rovers that need new rotors, however, when they need them, they need them NOW. I had a '94 Disco in the shop last year with four or five cracks in the rotor! The caliper had frozen and one of the pistons had come out of its bore, requiring replacement (liability...). Barring anything like this, I agree, they should last a good long time. With regular inspections and replaced pads when worn, they will last. | ||
| Erik Geagan (Geagan) Member Username: Geagan Post Number: 110 Registered: 10-2002 |
I need new pads on my 98 Disco and can hear the rubbing (pads to the rotor). So let me get this straight, from what I am reading I can get away with just replacing the pads? I have 105k miles and bought it with 77k and haven't done any break work. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1594 Registered: 02-2002 |
Erik: You might be able to get away with not replacing the rotors, but it is going to be a judgement call on them that you will have to look very carefully at the condition. If you have big grooves around the circumference, you should be very careful as to what you do. You may be able to get away with just replacing the pads and new pads may wear the old rotors more evenly (they don't have the wear patterns so they will only wear on the surfaces where they weren't worn before until they equilibrate). Peace, Paul | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 424 Registered: 02-2003 |
measure the thickness of the rotor, if it is thinner then 12mm then officially you should replace. measure it in many places to get a nice averagethickness. also there is a chance they could be warped, you tend to feel this in the pedal with a pulsing. to check for flatness you would need to measure the rotor with a dial indicator on the rotor's working surface. as you spin the rotor by hand you watch the needle ride on the surface. the distance it moves in and out will tell you the Runout. i dont know how flat they need to be but my guess is within +/-.002" seems right. borderline would be depend on the feel of the pedal. in the real world i would inspect the rotor for gouges and things and if it isn't way below 12 mm , like 8mm and it still feels good (no pulse) i'd probably let it ride. rd | ||
| Erik Geagan (Geagan) Member Username: Geagan Post Number: 111 Registered: 10-2002 |
Cool! I plan on changing my brakes Friday and this will be the first time with Disco. Any suggestions? | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Senior Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 310 Registered: 10-2002 |
I would look for some ceramic pads. They seem to work well and don't have the brake dust like normal carbon pads. | ||
| Matt Williams (Ltmatt007) Member Username: Ltmatt007 Post Number: 45 Registered: 02-2003 |
Rear pads tend to wear faster than the front on the DII. I have 65K and have done pads 3 times same rotors as new. The LR rotors are supposed to be replaced and not re-surfaced I was told that this has something to do with the way they are heat treated to allow for driving through water with a hot rotor and not having it crack on you. Who know that could just be my service rep telling lies. Anyway I am going to replace rotors with Brembos from Discount Rovers for about 200 bucks for all 4. I have been using the Mintex (dusty as hell but also cheap) for the last two changes and they seem to work as well as genuine LR pads.--Matt | ||
| todd slater (Toddslater) Senior Member Username: Toddslater Post Number: 300 Registered: 08-2002 |
Can't speak to D1...just recall reading many posts in the past that their rotors have more meat ie. more usable thickness than the D2. On my D2 (and I do have to pass annual inspections and I have mic'd them (at least the rears)), at 30K the rears (pads done and rotors below min spec. (remembering ~ 16mm thicknessish on rear rotors)). The fronts I pushed to a smidge over 40k. At that point the pads were just coming into the steel and the rotors I didn't even bother to mic. D2 rotors are not (at least in my nape of the wape) aloud to be turned in the most legal and binding way. | ||
| Erik Geagan (Geagan) Member Username: Geagan Post Number: 112 Registered: 10-2002 |
Is there a "how to" with brake pad changes? I should buy the shop manual that's for sure. Money tends to be tight when your getting married, hence me doing the brakes on my own. So I'll have to look at the rotors and take it from there. It would be nice if I can get away with just replacing the pads. | ||
| nobody (Hywy61) New Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 17 Registered: 02-2003 |
for a step by step try www.expeditionexchange.com look in the tech section - DII only | ||
| Erik Geagan (Geagan) Member Username: Geagan Post Number: 114 Registered: 10-2002 |
This is a dumb question, but I have a 1998 LSE Disco. So is that DI or DII. I also saw a tread (can't find it now), where they were talking about brake pad parts from Nappa, Auto Zone, etc.. Should I just keep it simple and buy from Auto Zone? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1599 Registered: 02-2002 |
Erik: You have a DI. Buy your pads wherever you feel most comfortable. That may be somewhere very inexpensive, or it may be the dealer. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 403 Registered: 08-2002 |
There is also a theory that cheap pads that weat faster reduce the wear on the rotor, which might be desired since the rotors are not really thick. My rotors look fine >90k miles and I use standard fast wearing LR pads. | ||
| Erik Geagan (Geagan) Member Username: Geagan Post Number: 115 Registered: 10-2002 |
I just hope the rich old lady who owned the Disco had the rotors changed. I know where she bought it, you think the dealer can give me history on the truck? |
