| Author | Message | ||
     Jason Pyles (Jpyles911) New Member Username: Jpyles911 Post Number: 2 Registered: 06-2003 |
I'm getting ready to do my first oil change since dealer services ended at 50K. Are there any gotchas I should be aware of? Any recommendations for filter/oil? I'd like to avoid a trip to dealer for parts if possible. Thanks! - Jason '00 DII | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 71 Registered: 03-2003 |
wix, change fuel filter also. also check all fluids in drive train, ie cv joint. | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Senior Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 308 Registered: 10-2002 |
You should not have to put anything in the CV joint. In the swivel ball housing is a special mixture of axle grease and gear oil that should last until it needs to be rebuilt: new gaskets, bearings, etc. I think the older DI's used just gear oil and it would constantly leak out of the seal on the swivel ball. The axle grease & gear oil mixture (LR #STC3435) is about $17 a tube (one per side) at the dealer but I think some places online sell it for $8-10. You can mix it yourself too but I don't know what the correct ratio of is and it's really a pain. As for the changing oil you will need 6-7 quarts (good to have an extra quart) and a filter. The oil filter is about $15 at the dealer and the copper crush washer is $1.10 I believe. Not sure if the washer really needs to be replaced each time and I have not done it and have had no leaks out of the drain plug using Mobil 1 Synthetic. Some places online sell the OEM LR oil filter for $10 but a K&N, Wix, Napa Gold, etc. is suitable. If you get an aftermarket oil filter make sure it's as long or longer than the original, never shorter. Should check to make sure your air filter is clean also. Doesn't hurt to spray it off with compressed air every once in a while anyways. A vacuum cleaner might work well too. I could probably keep going and going all night long on little things to check. | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 290 Registered: 11-2002 |
most important tip always prefill the filter with oil before you replace it. | ||
| Mike Bauer (Mikeb) New Member Username: Mikeb Post Number: 31 Registered: 02-2003 |
Be sure to use a good filter (genuine, Wix, or NAPA). A good backflow checkvalve is requried to help get the oil pressure up quickly. Also, partially fill the oil filter before putting on a new one. This will also help get the oil pressure up after changing the oil. Thanks, Mike B. | ||
| Jason T. Barker (Speedminded) Senior Member Username: Speedminded Post Number: 312 Registered: 10-2002 |
Oil will go in the filter when pouring. Just need to smear a little bit of fresh oil on the new oil filters rubber gasket before installing. Also do no tighten the filter, just turn it until it makes contact then just a 1/4 of a turn and no more. If you get a Napa filter get the Napa Gold and not the Napa Silver (much shorter). | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 76 Registered: 03-2003 |
"You should not have to put anything in the CV joint. In the swivel ball housing is a special mixture of axle grease and gear oil that should last until it needs to be rebuilt: new gaskets, bearings, etc." What I should have said was, "You need to check and make sure that the seals on your CV joint are not leaking and there is not water in it." I also pull the plug and get a small sample of grease out to make sure that no water has gotten in. If you get water in there you'll be rebuilding much sooner. I look at all the places that have some where to fill with oil. If the grease was good untill it needs to be rebuilt, then why would they have plugs installed? Also, fill the oil filter before installing it. One, the Land Rover says to. Two, it does not go in from pouring from the fill hole on the valve cover. When you pour oil in it goes from the valves to the oil pan, via drains on the valves. The check valve, that is so important in these filters, keeps oil from flowing from the top side of the engine back into the pan from the oil supply (pump) side. So no oil back flowing into the filter. I'm not trying to be pissy. It's like this. Spend the 10 minutes on the CV joint, looking at the seal and grease. Spend 30 seconds and fill the oil filter. If I'm wrong and talking out my ass, you have wasted 10 minutes and 30 seconds, that you would have spent waiting for the old oil to drain out of the pan....cost...nothing. If I'm right, it may cost you $1300 for a CV joint and $5000 for a new motor. | ||
| Robbie Donaldson (Robbie) Senior Member Username: Robbie Post Number: 375 Registered: 02-2002 |
hey Jason, are you saying "Oil will go in the filter when pouring" when you are pouring the new oil into the crank case? Cause if so, no it won't. I change my oil per Land Rover instructions just because it ain't much harder than doing it the quick way. Drain sump, refill with new oil, then remove old filter (new oil will not drain out), fill new filter with new oil and put on truck. If you do not fill the filter, could lead to loss of prime or oil starvation. | ||
| Dave Van Haren (Plain2000dii) New Member Username: Plain2000dii Post Number: 18 Registered: 05-2003 |
Robbies right on! On my 2000 D2 thats the way I change the oil, drain and refill, drop filter, prefill filter, install, run it a little, check level. I've heard that if you do the drain and filter at the same time you can lose the prime on the pump = very bad | ||
| nobody (Hywy61) New Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 18 Registered: 02-2003 |
ditto on the last two guys . That is exactly how it is stated in the manual and the way I do it - no problems - you can buy filters from a number of places - roverconnection.com sells them with the replacement washer. | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) New Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 4 Registered: 05-2003 |
You need a 1 1/8 wrench for the oil sump plug (97 disco) | ||
| Jason Pyles (Jpyles911) New Member Username: Jpyles911 Post Number: 3 Registered: 06-2003 |
Thanks to everyone for the responses! I saw a Fram oil filter at my local parts store. What length should I expect the filter to be? It's a 2000 DII. Also, does the dealer use synthetic oil? | ||
| Robbie Donaldson (Robbie) Senior Member Username: Robbie Post Number: 379 Registered: 02-2002 |
jason, people say that the frams are bad, but i use whatever is the cheapest on the shelf, lot of times that is a fram. think the one i have now is the fram extra-guard gobbeldy-gook - PH8A. but i also change my oil (and filter) religiously every 3k miles with mobil 1. | ||
| Dave Van Haren (Plain2000dii) New Member Username: Plain2000dii Post Number: 19 Registered: 05-2003 |
Jason, I won't use a Fram filter they are the junkiest of the junk. Try Wix or even the OEM filters. The dealer doesn't use synthetic unless you ask, so if you didn't ask you didn't get it. I use Mobil 1 in all my cars and extend the changes to roughly 5000 miles. | ||
| Jason Pyles (Jpyles911) New Member Username: Jpyles911 Post Number: 4 Registered: 06-2003 |
Well, I just finished. Picked up a NAPA Gold filter ($6) based on responses from the board (thanks!). Hardest part was avoiding the oil stream when the plug and filter came off.  Thanks for the help! | ||
| Max Thomason (Lrmax) Member Username: Lrmax Post Number: 172 Registered: 11-2002 |
What year disco? If it is an earlier model, then the oil drain plug is on the side of the oil pan. Watch out! The oil will spew straight out and go everywhere! (I screwed that up in a heartbeat). Also, these engines like to have their oil changed every 3,000 miles. If you go look at the ECR website, they have a whole can of beans on the subject. I echo earlier statements of prefilling the oil filter. It gets oil to the engine quicker which is good. I guess while your under there, just do a general check. You'll probably see the power steering system leaks (its ok). Go ahead and check the PS fluid level also (heck check the Transmission too and tires including the spare). Max T. Make sure EVERYTHING is ok |
