| Author |
Message |
    
RonLF
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 08:04 am: | 
|
I am looking for a left hand metric nut. It is a 18mm - 1.5 pitch. No hardware store or Wholesaler has any. Any help would be great. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 09:46 am: |
|
Ron, what is your application?
Paul |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 09:47 am: |
|
maryland metric will have what you need...
http://mdmetric.com/ |
RonLF
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 11:22 am: |
|
Paul,
I am making a heavy-duty Tie-rod for the Disc and need it as a "jam nut" to lock the tie-rod end from moving. |
John
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 11:27 am: |
|
If you are using LR'er std. tie rod ends thats not the correct thread size... |
RonLF
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 11:39 am: |
|
What is the correct size for stock rover ends?
I ordered the ends for roverconnection.com and this is the nut size that fits the right hand tie-rod end. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 11:55 am: |
|
18mm???? You're sizing the nut by the size across the flats.. this is incorrect when you start buying hardware. you need the diameter of rod and it's thread pitch.
Since I had a spare LH tie rod in the garage I just checked. Neither thread (the rod end and the ball joint end) are metric. Or so sayeth my dial caliper and thread pitch gauge.
-P |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 12:05 pm: |
|
11/16 X 16.
I have both taps to prove it. As for the lock nuts, you will have to make your own as I am doing the same thing but have not found these nuts to be readily available.
What are you making your tie rods from?
Paul |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 12:07 pm: |
|
Perrone:
What are you doing home? Shouldn't you be at work?
Also, do you trust that beat up caliper that that cheap SOB friend of yours sent you? Tee Hee Hee
Peace,
Paul |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 12:18 pm: |
|
I'm sick. Heavily medicated today, and proably tomorrow. Slept about 3 hours last night while I could actually breathe..
And that $150 dial gauge that cheap SOB sent me has proven to be accurate within 2 tenths which is close enough for my uses.
-P |
RonLF
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 02:27 pm: |
|
No, that 18mm is not across the flats, its is the actual metric call-out & it fits the threaded end well. I am now going the try and find a 11/16-16 nut. If that does work i well buy some taps. Thanks for the help. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 03:49 pm: |
|
Ron:
Good luck finding either a nut or a tap. The thread pitch is far from standard. I found a tap, but paid a king's ransom for it. In fact, I contemplated using a boring bar to thread the ID of my inserts.
No wonder products are so expensive, given the R&D expenditures just for tooling to try something.
What materials of construction are you going to use?
Paul |
Robert Mann (Oldscout)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 11, 2002 - 04:53 pm: |
|
Why not buy a tapered reamer and ream the knuckle/pitman arm for a standard 1.5"per foot TRE. A Moog ES150L and ES150R TRE has a 3/4-16 thread and it would be a breeze to make drag link and the tie rod for these TREs. Replacement cost for these 3/4 ton mothers is $15.17 each! |
Ron
| | Posted on Friday, April 12, 2002 - 01:47 am: |
|
LR ends are only 14.50
why tap?
Sleeve or leave
Ron |
RonLF
| | Posted on Friday, April 12, 2002 - 08:55 am: |
|
Paul,
I am planning on using 1.25 dia or 1.5 dia schedule 40 A53 pipe.
Do you have any other ideas for mat'l? |
Robert Mann (Oldscout)
| | Posted on Friday, April 12, 2002 - 09:51 am: |
|
Ron but there whimpy! and Sleeves are weak! |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, April 12, 2002 - 09:53 am: |
|
Yes. Although I do compliment you on recognizing the strength advantage to a tube over solid bar stock like most of the other aftermarket folks use.
At the risk of being accused of whoring, mine will be made of 1 inch O. D. 4130 Cr-Mo tubing with solid inserts welded onto each end, with provisions for both jam nuts and safety wire. By utilizing the solid inserts, I can get much greater thickness around the critical threaded stud of the ball joint. The factory has 3/16" wall around the threads, but mine have 5/16" wall around the threads and, a slightly greater wall thickness and outside diameter than stock. I also have a steering dampener relocation bracket made from billet 6061 T-6 that accomodates the larger tube diameter.
I have little to no faith in the factory tie rods, in spite of their record (many seem to have problems with bending). Again, at the risk of being flamed, I find it to be of great interest that most of the trucks that are brought into my day-job factory for bench-marking have solid tubes with jam nuts and heim joints. Both the X-Terra and the Toyota trucks use the heim joint ends with jam nuts.
As for Robert's suggestion of tapering the knuckles, I am equally curious of replacing the tie rod ends completely with Heim joints. Adam Way has done this successfully with the Dana 44 install he did on his Range Rover and I think it looks very nice and if it performs nearly as well, it will be my future direction-granted, Heim joints bring with them some baggage, such as being prone to dirt fouling and accelerated failure rates as a result of dirt. But, we should be cleaning our trucks on a regular basis anyway. Then again, I seriously doubt the added expense and difficulty in maintaining the heim joints will compensate for the relatively low cost of aftermarket ball joints. Not to mention the look of utter confusion should someone sell a truck with modified steering knuckles and the new owner tries to put stock ball joints on the truck and finds the tapered ball joints fall out of the now parallel wall knuckle, or one with a non-LR taper.
Peace,
Paul |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Friday, April 12, 2002 - 10:41 am: |
|
RonLF - call John at Rovertym - he can supply you with SS jam nuts in RH and LH thread for 11/16 x 16 tpi - same ones he sends with his track rods and drag links.
Bill |
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page