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Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
Member
Username: Sillybus

Post Number: 212
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2003 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

When I purchased my D1 back in August, I made the purchase knowing full well that neither passenger window worked. It was fine, I got it for a song and a dance.

Now that the sun came out today after 9 weeks of rain, I want my windows fixed.

Since I didn't own it when they were operational, I have not one clue as to if they both went out at the same time. If they indeed went together, that would leave me to take a wild guess and say fuses or the "lock-out" switch.

These are the only electrical items not working (except for my screwed up auto-dimming rear-view).

Are the fuses listed in the owner's manual the only possible fuses? I ask this because there is a fuse panel under the hood too.

Any wild guesses before I pop the door panels off? If I have to go down that road, I have a circuit tester but other than household use, wouldn't know what to look for and where to probe.

Any input would be great.


Note: I saw the piece about the bad soldering job on the ECU behind the glove box. I am going to check that first. Anybody tell me how to see or test if a soldering connection is bad?
 

Toddrover (Toddrover)
New Member
Username: Toddrover

Post Number: 35
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2003 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If its both rear windows then its most likely the window ECU. Try the tech fix. Don't forget to disconnect the negative battery terminal or you may short the board out when pulling it out. A bad solder joint will look like there's a small burn or tiny perforation around the solder. The joint pictured in the tech section is the usual culprit. It is doubtful that it is the lockout switch - the ECU flaw is a very common electrical issue on D1's.

If you like, you can also check the window motors independently by unclipping the motor switch connector after removing the door panel and running a hot jumper wire direct from the battery into one of the terminals, and another wire from the other terminal to a good chassis ground. If nothing happens reverse the two wires - the window should go down. Reverse the wires again to put it back up. You can also determine the lockout switch functionality this way...

Good Luck!
 

Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
Member
Username: Sillybus

Post Number: 213
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2003 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Man that was too easy. Yes, it was the exact same spot on the ECU as in the tech article. Thanks for the extra info Todd. It really made the difference to a rookie under the hood. :-D

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