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Kingfish (Kingfish)
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 08:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

On a 95 Discovery, drivers side? Should I order new studs and bolts? Should I expect to break any rusted bolts? I only have standard tools, no impact wrench.
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

if your studs/bolts are rusty, then soak em with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Some break, some don't. Mine didn't and it was a 10 minute job. If you break one, no big deal. If you break two (on one manifold), you have to deal with it. Otherwise, it's just a simple unbolt, replace gasket, rebolt job.
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Does anyone know what size and thread those damn studs are? I want to source some quality ones.

-P
 

Joe
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

With respect to replacing this gasket, is it hugely important to pay attention to how tightly you secure down the bolts in fear of overtightening and crushing the gasket? And, do you need to lay down some liquid gasket as well? Or just clean the surface, lay down the new gasket, replace manifold and tighten until bolts are snug and truck is quiet?
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

When I did mine, I didn't clean up any surfaces or use any liquid at all. In hindsight, I'd probably do it differently now, but be careful what liquid you put there. Those exhaust flanges get pretty hot and you want to make sure that nothing starts burning up there.

I just tightened the nuts snug plus half a turn. Anything more might have caused a problem, and the studs didn't look in the best of shape either. The truck was quite for several months, but I've noticed it getting louder again.

Effin Land Rovers..

-P
 

JB
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You can also buy a bolt cutter. You can use this anytime you fear breaking the studs when twisting rusty nuts ( that's rusty nuts not rusty's nuts ;) . Just buy replacement nuts for your studs.

JB
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Clean? :) I just slipped the new one in there & hand-torqued a little past "tight". About every 3 months I tighten them down again since they resonate loose and also back out from the hot/cold cycles. This beast sounds like a powerstroke diesel after last week...maybe I'll back em out and put hot-locktite in there.
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 06:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Blue,

I think the hottest of the common loctite lets go about 450F, so I am not sure if you'll need something more exotic. I'd look into a stover nut. Kinda like a Nyloc but without the nylon insert, so it's all metal and doesn't back off.

-P
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

just what I need - more exotic $tuff on my Rover. Wrenching every now and then is no biggie....
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 10:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Use the bolt kits as used on the DII's This is now a normal dealer upgrade if they do a D1.

The bolts are longer and have spacers that keep the heads away from the manifold and supposedly absorb some hot/cold flow that loosen up the original configuration.

Can't speak on this first hand, but I do know a friends shop does this on all D1's now without any future problems.

Bill
 

Blue (Bluegill)
Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2002 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

interesting, thanks Bill

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