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David Trammell (Discoconvert)
New Member
Username: Discoconvert

Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm making myself a set of rock sliders for my 99 D1 and was wondering if it is safe to tack weld pieces while they are bolted to the sills. I don't want to harm any electronics.
 

Joe Blanchard (Joeblanch)
Member
Username: Joeblanch

Post Number: 45
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 06:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You can never be to safe when welding on a vehicle. There are safety precautions you can take for each type of welding you do. IE.. disconnect ground to battery, make sure the equipment is a proper distance and properly grounded, everyone has some procedures they have been taught or learned. I know some who don't follow any.. although this is not the route I would take.
I am assuming you are bolting the slider to the sill. Then you want to tack weld the support from the slider to the frame? I don't have enough experience with welding sliders to tell you what the best course would be. I thought most of them were bolt-on. I guess some welds could be beneficial, just be careful when welding to the frame. Maybe someone who has built their own could give some advise.
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 852
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 09:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

When I'm having things welded to the truck - I always disconnect the negative battery cable and also disconnect the ECU - might be overkill, but I've never had any problems.

Bill
 

Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle)
Moderator
Username: Kyle

Post Number: 398
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 08:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Keep the ground close to the work and you will be fine...

Kyle
"Blow me"
 

marc olivares (Pugs)
Member
Username: Pugs

Post Number: 101
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

it's not necessary to disconnect battery etc...
but like kyle suggests, keep the ground close to where you are actually welding. and keep tacks welds small to avoid burn marks on your paint.
marc
 

Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Nosivad_bor

Post Number: 679
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2003 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

dont let the spatter hit the glass of the car or it will melt into it an look like bird shit.... right kyle.

rd
 

Nathan Hindman (Nathanh)
Member
Username: Nathanh

Post Number: 73
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2003 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Culled from a recent Difflock.com article on welding:

However, you also need to protect your vehicle since all and any electronic devices within it can be damaged during welding. Such devices include the alternator, car alarm, CD player, Radio, Air bag system, Engine management system and the multitude of sensors that feed them.

These are at risk not from the normal voltage and current given out by a welder during use, but instead from the very large voltage spike that occurs unavoidably when the arc is switched off.

This spike occurs because the high current path through the welding cables, the weld pool and the arc itself will set up a significant electromagnetic field around itself. When this field collapses very suddenly as the Arc is switched off it will induce a voltage pulse in nearby electrical circuits even if they are electrically isolated from the actual welding current path.

The size of this pulse is determined by a whole host of factors but long connecting cables are particularly good at suffering from this induction effect, hence the need to disconnect them from sensitive circuits.

The welder's transformer itself also generates a big spike as its electromagnetic field collapses when the arc is switched off. This is directly carried into the component being welded and so distributed to anything connected to it.

Some mechanics disconnect the battery during welding in the mistaken belief this will protect those sensitive systems on the vehicle from voltage spikes. Others think that positioning the welding earth clamp near to the weld will offer protection.

In fact neither of these methods makes any difference to the voltage spikes ability to cause irreparable damage. The only way to guarantee protection is therefore one of three ways in order of effectiveness:

1. Remove the object to be welded from the vehicle and weld it before refitting it.
2. Fit a surge protection device such as those available from our online store.
3. Disconnect all sensitive equipment from long connecting cables.

Having said all this, welding a vehicle without taking such precautions doesn't mean it will always be damaged.

It does however mean you are risking damage and given the cost of replacing components such as the alternator, car alarm, CD player, Radio, Air bag system, Engine management system you have to ask yourself whether it’s a risk that is really worth taking.

Good luck,
Nathan Hindman
http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com
 

Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle)
Moderator
Username: Kyle

Post Number: 399
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, July 17, 2003 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

And technically Lightening can come inside this building and hit me at my desk. But it hasnt happened yet.. :-) And I have been welding on cars for a very long time.......

Kyle
"Blow me"
 

thom mathie (Muskyman)
Senior Member
Username: Muskyman

Post Number: 311
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 12:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yes and no

for most welding situations Kyle's advice is dead on. just make sure the ground is close by as far as a complete circuit goes.

but :-)I do have a chassic building friend that when doing work uses a huge 220 three phaze tig unit on a roll around cart. and he warns guys that all the chips be out of a car when he is doing major chassis work because the welder sitting under the lift getting turned on and off all day for days on end can zap a chip blank.

but then again he is the same guy that talks of load induced changes in thrust angle and I know everyones views on that subject:-)

 

Nathan Hindman (Nathanh)
Member
Username: Nathanh

Post Number: 75
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Kyle,

I agree, the likelyhood of frying your electrical stuff is low. But why take a chance if you can avoid it?

I've been welding on vintage Mustangs since before I could drive, so this ain't my first trip to the rodeo either. I've always done was disconnect the battery and grounding close to the work area and never fried anything. I just recently read that while researching a new welder (my garage got robbed blind a couple of years ago) and thought it was interesting. Like I said, why take a chance if you can avoid it?

Thanks,
Nathan Hindman
http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com
 

Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle)
Moderator
Username: Kyle

Post Number: 401
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well , simply because you cant avoid it. Unless you have a jig you are stuck to doing it on the truck.
What the hell you gonna fry in an old Horse ? Good god I cant count the number of old horses that have run through the garage at the house for ground ups , and I cant remember one thing that ever got fried.
I hear what you are saying and I still cringe each time I am working on someone elses truck wondering what kind of good shit I am going to have to buy afterwards , but its not like I am going to remove every single device from it before striking an arch...

Kyle
"Blow me"
 

Leo (Leo_hallak)
Member
Username: Leo_hallak

Post Number: 99
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hey Kyle while you are answering welding questions. :-) On a set of QT diffential guards you tack on the tabs on the front set. I am going to use my stick welder and I was wondering what rod you would use?

Thanks
-Leo
 

Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle)
Moderator
Username: Kyle

Post Number: 403
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I wouldnt use the stick welder.... :-) Outside of that its just tacks. Any mild Rod should do...I have never been a big stick weld guy , I only use them when I have no other choice...lol

Kyle

"Blow me"
 

Leo (Leo_hallak)
Member
Username: Leo_hallak

Post Number: 100
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

All I have is stick a the moment. :-( trust me its not my first choice.. Thanks just making sure you didnt think it would make that much difference to use a little more nickel in the rod.

-leo
 

thom mathie (Muskyman)
Senior Member
Username: Muskyman

Post Number: 312
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

6013 works for all welding positions, "its a good thing" :-) when stick welding a broken truck back togather or tacking in strange positions
 

Kai Dussling (Kai)
Member
Username: Kai

Post Number: 74
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Monday, July 21, 2003 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

"2. Fit a surge protection device such as those available from our online store."

Wouldn't you know there would be a profit in there somewhere!

aahhhhh..... corporate America!

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