| Author |
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Jeremy (Highmile)
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 02:10 pm: | 
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How difficult is replacing the rotors on a '96 Discovery? I know the brake pads are an easy DIY job, but are the rotors as easy of a job? Is there any place that shows the steps to replacing the rotors? I have the Haynes Manual, but I have not looked there as of yet to see if it is illustrated there. Thanks for the input!
Jeremy |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 02:51 pm: |
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Rotors are more involved, but certainly within the range of a DIY mechanic.
Go here:
http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Tech/Maintain/Wheel_Bearing_Replacement/wheel_bearing_replacement.html
Just follow the instructions to get the hub off then unbolt the rotor on the back. Then refit everything. Be careful and keep everything clean. Use lots of shop towels to keep dirt away from the bearings and such inside.
The first one might take you two hours, but eventually you can get down to an hour a rotor or less.
Good luck,
-P |
Jon Williams (Jonw)
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 03:01 pm: |
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Then the Haynes Manual will be enough explanation. Basically, you pull the hub, unbolt the rotor from the hub, replace with new rotor, and refit the hub.
Don't be fooled about needing a hub nut socket. The nuts are not on there very tightly to begin with, and you won't need to re-tighten them to much more than hand-tightness. The only time one's helpful is when you're seating your bearings. Otherwise, a decent set of water pump pliers will do you just fine. You'll need new hub seals and lockwashers to coplete the job. Some will argue that you can reuse the lockwasher; if you don't totally mangle the thing straightening it out for removal, then by all means, reuse. Rovers North sells a kit that has everything you'll need for a decent price (per hub, of course). And pick-up a tube of Hylomar sealant (AutoZone, Advance, etc. - Permatex makes it). You can use it alone to seal the drive flange, or supplant the gasket. And you'll need some fresh 90W for the rear axle, which you'll need to drain to work on the rear hubs (well okay, you don't have to drain it, but it sure saves making a mess). Other than that, it's really straight-forward. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 03:08 pm: |
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Jon gives some good pointers but there's a few things he didn't say.
When you re-install the hub, you need to preload the bearings. This is pretty hard to do with "water-pump" pliers. And if you don't have a set of those already, buying the hub nut socket is probably cheaper (although not as versatile).
2. Take your time with the lockwashers. I ordered spares when I started doing this job 3 years ago. I still have them all. Don't get yourself into a hurry and this will go quite smoothly.
3. You don't need new hub seals. Just be gentle with everything and nothing will get disturbed.
4. You don't need to replace any 90wt oil. This is a good time to do it, but it's not necessary, and you shouldn't get enough to fill a paper towel. The secret is to only jack one side of the axle at a time. All the oil runs to the other side. and keeps things nice an neat while you work.
Enjoy!
(and Jon, I'm not slamming you. That was good advice you gave. I just tend to recommend that first-timers do it by the book).
-P |
Jeremy (Highmile)
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 03:31 pm: |
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Thanks for the info! This should be a big help. |
Jon Williams (Jonw)
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 04:16 pm: |
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Don�t worry, no offense taken, Perrone  Yeah, I kinda gave the "done it so much I�m tired of it" directions.
I agree, if your hub seals and such are in good condition, you don�t need to replace them. However, on most Rovers I�ve worked on I�ve found that they start to lose their pliability post-90,000 miles, and replacing them if you work with them around that mileage ensures you won�t run into any problems later-on.
I read your website and your procedure for preloading bearings. Sounds like what I�ve always done, so it�s good to see somebody has that posted on the internet. I always use the correct hub nut socket when I do work on other people�s Rovers, but just foolin� around on my own trucks I�ve achieved satisfactory preload on the bearings tightening with a pair of pump pliers. But, I guess if Jeremy has neither pump pliers nor a Rover hub socket, definitely go ahead and get the correct socket. Unfortunately I�ve already sold the spare socket I had. Jeremy, you could order one from Nathan Crabtree for a decent price, as I don�t think you�ll have much luck getting a 2-1/16" socket from a toolmaker in the US, and places like Rovers North and AB tend to over-value their sockets, which should really cost no more than about $2 or $3. Snap-On may make a 2-1/16" socket, but most everybody else only has 2", then 2-1/8", 2-3/16", 2-1/4", etc.
What to do with the axle oil depends on the axle, I guess. Some trucks I�ve worked on have had oil come pouring out when the axle was pulled; others haven�t - even when jacked only on the side I was working. Jeremy, you'll know very quickly what you have |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 04:45 pm: |
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Cool Jon,
The only time I've ever had oil come pouring out of an axle was when it was contaminated with water and the level was VERY high. Other than that, lifting the truck on one side a couple inches was enough to not have much oil come out. The front is a little different because of the oil in the swivel housings.
As for hub seals, I agree if you've got a high mileage truck, you may need to replace seals, but like you, I did some assuming here. I would have suspected that a truck at 90k would have seen a rotor replacement and likely a wheel bearing replacement in the past. If not, the seals will need to be replaced. I use the older RTC3511 seal as it locks out more dirt and water than the "new and improved" LR seal.
-P |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 06:51 pm: |
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Just attempted to do my rear rotors/pads/bearings and took everything but the rotors that Nathan sent were the wrong fit for a 97 disco with 60K. I did end up replacing the bearing/pads which was extremely easy using Perrone's site (although would be nice if you also had pics of disco instead of a RR since some things are different). Just had some f/u questions
1) The bearing looked good but I bought a new one anyway, if the racing wasn't scored is it ok to put the new bearing in with the old racing?
2)I accidentaly took apart the caliper, do the brake lines also need to bleed them?
Thanks MB |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 07:00 pm: |
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I will gladly include a picture of a Disco if someone provides me with the diagrams. Since I own a RR and a RR Manual, I used what I had.
Placing a new bearing in an old race is not smart. The bearings and the race wear together even if no pattern is evident. This is why things get sloppier. If you put an unworn bearing in an old race, the surfaces won't mate exactly and the load bearing of the bearings won't be up to spec. It may still fall within tolerances, but it won't be as good as a new race.
I have done it both ways, but I do the races whenever I can.
-P |
JB
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 07:32 pm: |
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"I have done it both ways, but I do the races whenever I can " -P
I always knew you were a swinger baby!!! But really - if you love ice-cream, the flavor shouldn't matter...
Just kidding ya P.!!!!!!!
I just got back from the NASCAR race at Talladega - I didn't see ANY unimogs or LR's ( go figure) but I saw more than one American made pick-up truck. My Rangie was spat upon, assaulted with beer cans and had the air let out of a tire ( guess the YeeHaw hadn't reached the tool making phase/stage or he might have used a tool and slashed it instead)
JB |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 07:35 pm: |
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Dang!
Sorry to hear about your truck. Maybe you should have put a Ford badge on it. I bet it would have been safe if you put one of those "3" stickers on it.
-P |
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