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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through August 18, 2003 » Is it the fuel pump or wires or what...must "flood" to start! « Previous Next »

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Mark Reeves (Mer)
New Member
Username: Mer

Post Number: 33
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Been having a problem getting my 95 D1 to start recently. I now have to pump the gas several times while cranking it and must have the pedal to the floor for it to start. Just fine up until 2-3 weeks ago when we got some real humid weather. I'm concerned that I will damage the starter, etc. if I continue on. Your thoughts appreciated!
 

Tony Zuniga (Tony23007)
Member
Username: Tony23007

Post Number: 156
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You probabaly have a bad fuel injector. I had the same problem and three of my injectors were leaking causing the engine to have too much gas for it to start, once the gas burned out or actually evaporated the engine started. It's easy to check the injectors but time consuming about three hour job. I can give you step by step insturctions if you want, just let me know! You can also take it to a shop and have them check that for you, it cost about $100 bucks to check and about $800 to fix (That's the price quoted to me for three injectors) I fixed mine for about $300 bucks!!! cost of parts
 

Joey (Joey4420)
Member
Username: Joey4420

Post Number: 152
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Tony,

Not that I have this problem yet, but I am a knowledge junkie. Can you send me the info on how to check and fix the injectors?

jshreve@zzzip.net

Thanks in advance,

Joey
 

Mark & Bev Preston (Markp)
Member
Username: Markp

Post Number: 221
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mark,

Is the start problem only when cold or all the time?

- Mark
 

john radzik (97m2000s95disco)
New Member
Username: 97m2000s95disco

Post Number: 9
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i have a 95 disco as well and have had the same problem lately. happens every other day. it's been fairly humid out where i am. i also noticed it started right around the time i ran low on fuel to the point the light came on. i ran some fuel cleaner through and the problem hasn't come back for a few days. i figured i dredged some setiment up from the bottom of the fuel tank.
 

Mark Reeves (Mer)
New Member
Username: Mer

Post Number: 34
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Happens at every start up now, not just cold. Have to really pump the pedal 2-3, then "floor" it before it will start. John, maybe I'll try the fuel cleaner thing...I have had it down to the "light" a couple of times over the 2-3 weeks.
 

Mark & Bev Preston (Markp)
Member
Username: Markp

Post Number: 222
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Run a can of BG44K through it and then change the fuel filter. If that doesn't help check the fuel pressure and pressure regulator.
 

Tony Zuniga (Tony23007)
Member
Username: Tony23007

Post Number: 162
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Joey and those guys that want to check the injectors,

1.)Remove the negative lead on the battery!
2.)Remove the coolant hoses and air hoses connected to the plenum chamber, you will loose some coolant but very little.
3.)Disconnect the IAC connector at the rear of the plenum.
4.)Remove the air intake duct.
5.)Unhook the Cruise Control linkage, the metal piece only, it pops out really easy without the use of any tools.
6.)Remove the six bolts holding the plenum chamber to the base plate. In the haynes manual it says to remove the entire throttle system, but this is not nessesary, just move it to the left side.(left side from the drivers side)
7.)Remove the six bolts holding the base plate (Unit with air pipes) from the motor. Move this to the right side (right side from the drivers side)
In the book it also says to remove the two connections to the base plate one is the connection to the charcoal cannister and the other one I don't know what it is, this is not nessesary also, just move the unit to the side with the connections still intact.
8.)You now have clear view of the fuel rail line, there are four nuts holding the unit in place, these nuts are easy to remove but being a British car they are attached to headless bolts wich in some instances are difficult to remove because in the nut and the screw spin at once. I had to use pliers to hold the screw in place as I turned the nut off. Once the four nuts are off the fuel rail should come out, it takes some jiggling but it comes out as a hole unit with all eight fuel injectors still attached.
9.)Now that the rail is out of the chamber make sure you cover the holes to keep any debris or dirt from going into each chamber. To test the injectors to see if they are leaking. Turn the ignition ON but DO NOT START THE CAR. When you ignition is in the ON position, fuel is pumped into the rail, if the injectors are leaking you will see gas drops flowing from the bad injectors!

If your are planning on doing this, at least have a couple of injectors ready to go into the system, the reason for it is that this is a lot of work, not hard just a lot of work, so if you do come to find out you have bad injectors you can replace them if you find that you don't have bad injectors then return the units where you bought them from for a refund!

Taking the injectors out is not hard, make sure that the engine is in the off position, let the pressure drop and begin removing the injector, there is a square pin holding hte unit in place, remove that with a screwdriver, then wiggle the injector out of its place. There will be a lot of gas in the rail even if you have let the pressure drop, have a rag or something ready to soak up the gas coming out of the fuel rail.

The replacement is the kicker, use a brand new o-ring or you might have gas leaks. Popping one of this things back into place is really tough, since the o-ring is new it takes a lot of patience to get them to go in, but they will go in eventually!

Anyway I hope this helps, if you are going to try this and run into a problem email me I can probably help you out.

Make sure you know how every piece came in and out and don't forget to test the new injectors after installation. Turn the key to the ON position and watch for leaks. Put everything back the way you found it and you should be fine.!!
 

Mark Reeves (Mer)
New Member
Username: Mer

Post Number: 35
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Great responses everyone and thanks! Just ran a bottle of fuel system cleaner through last night and its already starting much quicker. I guess I should change the fuel filter as well...difficut?
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 990
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 01:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

10 minutes
 

Chris Gregg (Tofergregg)
New Member
Username: Tofergregg

Post Number: 24
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 14, 2003 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I haven't been able to change my fuel filter...the lines are too rusted. I plan on putting teflon lubricant on it to soak, and I hope that will break the seal. Thanks!

-Chris

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