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Jack (Olered)
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I would like to change the spark plugs and wires to a better grade. I've read several posts on Dweb about different kinds of plugs and wires. Two questions:
What are the best/everyone like?
Is it as easy as remove and replace with new?

I know, I know...novice question. Learning is living!
 

p m
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

MSD Super 8.5mm wires and Champion Truck 4405 plugs...
(however, people here like Magnecor and Bosch Platinum...)

peter
 

Joe Musmacker (Socaljoe)
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I agree on the wires.

I put in Bosch Platinum +2 ( the plus 4's were SUPER expensive) and haven't seen any HUGE difference. Maybe an overkill, who knows....I feel better knowing my truck is living with some of the best life has to offer. I spoil ALL my bitches that way :)
 

p m
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

you won't see much difference from either, unless the original items were FUd badly.

peter
 

Jack (Olered)
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

So, the word so far is to either go with the Bosch P or stay with the recommended Rover plugs?
How about changing the plugs?
Unscrew
Remove
Screw new ones in
Replace wire
Require special tools?
Learning the mechanic thing. Just don't want to get into a situation requiring a tow or something like that.
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

No special tools. You may want to put some quality anti-seize on the plug threads during installation.

You may also want to pick up a universal joint for your ratchet to make getting onto those awkward spots just a little easier.

-P
 

Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

just make sure you remember (mark down or do them individually) the order the wires connect to the distributor (or whatever it is called in GEMS system trucks).
 

Jack (Olered)
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Cool. Thanks for the help. I will mark them.
 

Matt M
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just a couple of points to add - If you only do one plug and lead at a time, you won't have any problems remembering the order and it'll save you time marking them all, and any potential confusion.

You will need a either a deep socket, or 'spark plug socket' - they've got a bit of rubber in the bottom of the socket to grip the plug so you can extract it easily from the block.

Shouldn't take you long, I did mine recently, 'bout 15 mins-ish.

Matt
 

Anonymous
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jump right in! This vehicle(95)is as easy a plug change as I've owned in years!

I got the cap and rotor button too while doing the wires. By the way, special order bosch wires from Autozone were $44. Ordered similar wires from Brit Pac for $25 and returned the others. Who said specilaty houses are always higher?
 

Matt M
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

P.S. make sure when you're putting the new plugs in that you 'hand thread' them initially (for a couple of turns) they should screw in easily - doing it this way will prevent you from cross threading them.

You'll find the plugs are very easy to access in the Disco, so you won't find any problems getting your hands in there.

Matt
 

Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I run the Magnecor 8 mm wires and I have been very happy with them. As for plugs, I have used Champion and NGK in the Rover, I was pleased with both.

Matt
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Also -put some dielectric grease inside the boots - helps to remove them later.

Bill
 

JMcD
Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You might want to consider checking the Gap before you put 'em in, get a cheap gap tool at parts place and check the plugs before you install.
 

Kingfish (Kingfish)
Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yea, don't forget to check the gap. Off the top of my head, I think it's supposed to be .9mm Can somebody else verify that please?
 

M. K. Watson (Lrover94)
Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

you might want to put a small dab of anti-sieze on those threads. it has been argured (in here of all places could you ever imagine an arguement in HERE) that it is required due to the block being ALUMINIUM and the plugs are STEEL. if the plugs arent changed or atleast removed often they could develop some electro-chemical reaction leading to the a galling of the threads. who knows but made me worry enuff to go out and take the plugs out that i just put in and massage some anti-sieze on them.
imho
mike w
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

This galvanic corrosion is widely known and will happen between steel and aluminum. Toss in a little moisture and some heat, and some electricity, and you have all the makings of a disaster. There is more than one kind of anti-seize so be aware. Nickel based is about as good as it gets on a DIY budget, but if you've got the money, that silver based stuff is what NASA uses.

The Nickel based stuff has the added benefit of being able to withstand temps from 2200F-2600F depending on the manufacturer. If you need more info just ask.

Remember, don't install dry fasteners on your truck. Anti-seize, loctite, teflon putty, or oil. Something should be on all fasteners depending on application.

-P
 

JB
Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 06:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

check the plugs a week after you put them in to make sure they are still tight. put some dieletic grease on all boots and the rotor cap lip too.

JB
 

Anonymous
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I checked the Gap and they had no clue about spark plugs. Had an Orange Julius and went home.

Biff
 

p m
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Remember, don't install dry fasteners on your truck. Anti-seize, loctite, teflon putty, or oil. Something should be on all fasteners depending on
application.


what do i put on the head bolts?

peter
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 01:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Not sure what the manual calls for, but on other engines, Red hi-temp loctite is used. That's Loctite 262.

-P
 

Greg P
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Perrone,

Are you really suggesting that jack should Loctite his spark plugs in. Loctite is a thread locking compound not an anti-seize. The purpose of anti-seize is to make future removal of the plugs easier not harder.

Greg
 

Greg P
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The following quote is from Loctite's web site:

LOCTITE 262 - HIGH STRENGTH (B-AL-TH-10) Loctite 262 helps you permanently anchor studs, cylindrical parts, bearings and bushings. Replace shaft ...

Notice the word "permanently"?

Is this really what Jack should use on his spark plugs Perrone? Some of you people need to actually learn something about what you are talking about before giving out so much advice.

Greg P
 

Dee
Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2002 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

PM look on the CD LOL
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2002 - 11:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg,

My comment was to p.m. who asked what he should use on "head bolts". I replied Loctite 262. When the question was asked about spark plugs notice that I said anti-seize should be used. I'm not sure how you got confused between the two responses.

-P
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2002 - 11:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg,

You'll also note that I have the loctite applications guide on the Spanish Trail page in the section on threaded fasteners, and use all of their primary threadlocking products in the correct places on my truck. You need to calm down a bit about who needs to learn what.. Maybe start by reading the entier thread instead of offering knee-jerk reactions.

-P
 

Greg P
Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2002 - 11:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Perrone,

I completely missed the Head Bolt question somehow. Damn! And I had so much fun posting that knee-jerk reaction too.
I stand corrected and properly chastised. Please accept my apology.
Greg P
 

PerroneFord
Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2002 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Not a prob! I was probably a little harsh anyways..

How the hell did you miss that though! :)

-P
 

Holger E Schaarschmidt (Creel)
Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 03:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have in my 91 3.5l V8i Bosch Super4's spark plugs with Magnecor 8mm diamater spark plug leads.(blue in colour)
Great combo, the spark plugs have been in over 12 months and are still good!

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