Help! With removal of tower shock nut.

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Author Message   James Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 01:11 am:    I'm changing to a RTE 2inch lift. I have removed my front shock with tower. I cannot get the MoFo nut of the top of the shock while it is still in the tower. I can't find any lit on this so I assume that I'm just missing a simple solution. I'm going to MOAB for 10 days is less than a week. Please, any advice?   Joe Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 03:28 am:    James- I don't know of a 'simple' soln. I ended up taking my trusty dremel with cut-off tool to the nut. Make a groove in one side of the six-sided nut in a direction parallel to the long axis of the shock. Once down to the threads, insert a flat-head screwdriver into the groove and twist. This ought to loosen the nut enough to be able to remove it with a wrench. If you learn of a simpler method, let us all know for future ref. -Joe   Darren Waller (Darren) Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 07:06 am:    Just replaced a front shocker last week. Had the same problem. No ammount of cursing would make it move. Luckiley I had access to air tools and the rattle guns they use to get wheel nuts off worked. Maybe a trip to the local mechanic with shocker tower in hand could be the answer.?   PerroneFord Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 10:29 am:    This is why you loosen that nut with the tower still on the truck... More than likely, Loctite was used to keep that nut from backing off. Common loctite breaks down at 300F. High temp red loctite breaks down at 450F. Good luck, -P   Joe Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 01:02 pm:    Perrone- Tried removing the nut prior to removing the turret (was actually trying to avoid removing the turret all together) but the shock would just spin and spin with every turn of the nut. Please explain to me how the mere attachment of the turret to the frame allows for easier removal of the upper shock nut. -Joe   Ho Chung (Ho) Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 01:14 pm:    is this the stock shock? doens't it have part of the shock body that you can access with a pipe wrench?   PerroneFord Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 01:17 pm:    Must depend on the shock. On my shocks, the lower shock nut under the axle, spins the bottom portion of the shock. However, when the shock is bolted in, loosening the top shock bolt doesn't spin anything. Did you try loosening the top shock nut before removing the bottom one? -P   alhang Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 01:42 pm:    other than cutting it off, try clamping the tip of the bolt in a big stationary vise. The tip should be flattened without threads and the vise will prevent rotation. a wrench should take it off easily, if not you can always cut it off. -al   Kevin D Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 01:58 pm:    Lisle Shock Absorber Tools: http://www.lislecorp.com/tools/catalog/suspens/sus1.htm 32900 SHOCK REMOVAL TOOL Remove Threaded Stem Shocks in a Fraction of Flat-Rate Time. Breaks the stem below the top shock nut. Breaker adapters for 3/8" - 16, 3/8" - 24 and M-10 x 1.5mm stems, fit most applications. Skin-packed. Shipping wt. 1 lb. 7 oz. Dealer Price $36.25 20390 20400 SHOCK ABSORBER TOOLS For Removing and Installing Shock Nuts. Two tools to fit most all shock nuts. 20400 fits most domestic models and some Ford OEM shock nuts. 20390 is made for Ford OEM shock nuts. 20390 Shock Absorber Tool for Ford. Skin-packed. Shipping wt. 7 oz. Dealer Price $10.95 20400 Universal Shock Absorber Tool. Skin-packed. Shipping wt. 5 oz. Dealer Price $10.95 Buy them online: http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=2065 http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=2067   Anonymous Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 05:00 pm:    Just lifted my '97, and THE most frustrating part was getting those damn things off of the shock. After trying everything that everyone here has suggested (other than cutting them off with the Dremel), I pulled out my plumbers torch. By simply heating the nut, it freed it from the shock. Be careful not to melt the nylock in the nut, that will create even more problems. Hope this helps...   PerroneFord Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 09:46 pm:    I could have sworn I said heat application with my very first post... Oh well.. -P   Anonymous Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 11:45 pm:    Somebody give Perrone a cookie and a pat on the back. get over it P-   PerroneFord Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 12:01 am:    No sweat... Just interesting that Anons don't read the given responses before they post. -P   Anonymous Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 02:49 am:    I have had this problem before with one of the nylocs on my shock. I found that heat works REALLY well when trying to free it....   Anonymous Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 09:39 am:    VERY sorry Perrone, I guess this Anon couldn't figure out the temp breakdown specifications of loctite meant that you used a torch. Just trying to help, I'll check with you prior to posting in the future...   Anonymous Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 09:45 am:    If you dont have a torch, just put it in the microvave for 3min on high.   PerroneFord Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 10:51 am:    Yea.. Microwave.. that's it... Other anon.. cool out man, it's Friday. Let's enjoy it. And a question for you. There are 3 ways I've seen to add heat to one of these things. A butane or other type of torch, a hi-temp soldering iron, and a air-blown heat gun. Which do you prefer? I'm somewhat inclined not to use the torch simply because open flames around a truck can be pretty dangerous... Thoughts? -P   Anonymous Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 11:43 am:    no sweat Perrone, I actually used my wife's curling iron and hair dryer, the combination of both got the shock mount to around 300 degrees, and the damn nut spun right off! ...actually the shock tower was out of the truck, so I just torched it.   PerroneFord Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 12:05 pm:    Curling Iron!?!? Did she know about this! I was thinking of getting a heat gun and soldering iron. Both would have other benefits for electrical work. Just looking for an excuse to buy more tools... -P   Pale Face Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 12:23 pm:    Yesterday afternoon, I rubbed my shock tower nut with one of those native american string-around-the-stick things they used to use to make fire with. After a little smoke and funny smells, worked like a charm. Then in happiness, I danced around my garage giving thanks to the ancestors.   Anonymous Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 12:49 pm:    When I heat my nuts up, I like to use hand friction. It gets them off. Perrone, you must be scared with a soldering iron. Ouch!   Anonymous Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 03:01 pm:    uh, that last post was not from "other Anon"   PerroneFord Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 03:08 pm:    Ahh.. Pearls of wisdom fro, Anon... AKA Ben Jurquenov   Andy Nix (Andy) Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 03:42 pm:    take a high speed grinder to the side of the bolt. I used a band saw to cut the side of the bolt off when I did my lift..big pain in the ass. Still Jerkin' Off   Dee Cantrell (Disco_Dad) Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 04:33 pm:    Andy, How did your lift work out for you?