| Author |
Message |
    
Michael Cavender (Mike)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 11:11 am: | 
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Ok.. that last question Bombed !!
Who out there has high mileage on their Rover and... what kind of problems have you had.. ?
Anybody with a 150,000 miles ??
Or am I high with 90,000 ??
mike |
Jake Hartley (Jake)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 11:26 am: |
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Mike, don't want to burst that bubble but I have 250,000 on my 94. I am 3rd owner and as far as I know, there has not been any major problems with the mechanicals. It does not use oil and a recent compression test has all cylinders checking out ok. Problems? The steering box leaks a pig and the tcase and rear diff need seal attention also. It regularly makes trips from the Midwest to the Gulf Coast. The last PO maintained it superbly and I am carring on the tradition. No special oils, just regular lube and filter changes. Even with all this, no record setting here: I have seen posted that Kyle (I believe) knows a guy with a RR Classic that has over 330K. Keep driving it!!! |
Kyle
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 11:34 am: |
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145K , still going with some slight "Issues"
Kyle |
Michael Cavender (Mike)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 11:40 am: |
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Cool..
That's good to hear... I love my truck.. and I'm really proactive as far as maintenance.. I think my biggest fear is major electrical stuff that will require "dealer" support.. !!
mike |
Jake Hartley (Jake)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 11:56 am: |
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Get a shop manual and make friends with a reputable independant shop. Most shops can fix these puppies if you can't, they are no more complicated(maybe less so) than domestic iron. |
Kingfish (Kingfish)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 12:05 pm: |
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How should I know if you're high? If you have to ask strangers that question, you should go to re-hab. Take up Rover maintenance and drop the bong, ya pot head.  |
cartner
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 12:13 pm: |
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130K today, and just minor niggling electrical quirks. Nothing really serious. had a valve job under warranty before I got it. Mostly just maintenance and sometimes fuses. used of road just about weekly. |
Douglas Jones (Ozaukeedoug)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 12:45 pm: |
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172,000 miles, 3rd owner. I'm continually impressed with how overbuilt these things are. I'm just changing out the rear rotors for the first time. My '95 still has it's original muffler! How many modern vehicles can compete with that? |
SoCalJoe
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 01:44 pm: |
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I have 52,000 miles on my 98 Disco I......do you think I have much time left on it??
(kidding)
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94Rover
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 01:49 pm: |
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123,996/ 94RR Claissic SWB Only Owner-
Can you hear me now? |
Brad Bradford (Brad)
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 02:13 pm: |
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120k on mine, and a few problems
valve job, clutch, new cats, but other than that it runs like a top. I would like to mention that i am the second owner. |
JB
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 03:35 pm: |
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1990 RR 164k, no serious issues ever, just regular upkeep of fluids, hoses, belts and plug wires, plugs and rotor arm and cap and rebuilt the brakes( rotor and pads). Only problems have been trail breakage of axles, diffs, and cvs. No mechanical issues to speak of. A few Lucas issues here and there. Built like a tank. |
Mateo
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 06:12 pm: |
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98K on the clock. No serious problems. All Rovers leak. I've had the barrings repacked, new calipers, new roters. That's about it. Needs a new speed sensor I'm sure. All the rest of the no-wearables are original. |
Roger Fastring
| | Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 12:48 am: |
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106K, bought it at 100k four months ago. Love it, expect it to go forever. (with repairs, but forever) Fun to work on, I ditched my front wheel drive never turned a wrench except for changing maintenance items Nissan as I hated to work on it. 110% reliable, but FWD was tough to work on. The rover isnt 110% reliable, but its alot easier to work on. Wifes 97 Ford F250 (5.4 TRITON V8) has 140+k reliable miles, but take 8hrs to change the spark plugs (or $450 at dealer...).
Anyone with lots of miles with pre-96 running 87 Octane? (I'm wanting to retard the timing and switch to 87, would love some chatter on this...) |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 07:25 pm: |
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Totally fine to reset the timing and go to 87. Back it down 2 deg increments until , when going up hill, floored, no pinging. It won't be a Porsche, but 87 is fine at 6-7 deg. I run mid grade, 89, on my 95 4.2, 8.94 cr, no prob @ 10 deg
cheers-doug |
james
| | Posted on Friday, April 26, 2002 - 08:39 pm: |
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I have a 95 with 164,00 and am going to MOAB for 10 days and I KNOW that my car will make it, no problem. I replaced rear rotors,power steering pump, and as of today I add an RTE 2inch lift and that is all I have ever done besides routine stuff.
James |
cartner
| | Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2002 - 02:10 am: |
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Do I need a timing light to do that?
How long does it take to do? Can it be done in the time of an oil change? |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2002 - 07:14 pm: |
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Yes. Sears or any parts place.
3 leads on the light:
1: red-goes to power, batt post the best spot.
2: black-to ground-AC or PS is good ground;
3: the 'delicate jaw clip', goes to Spark-plug lead # 1 (driver side, most forward position)
Careful of the fan and belts, etc!
Engine idling, point/aim it downward to the crank pully and the 'pointer tab'. Will need to 'prep it before you begin:
clean the area of 'the pointer' and the 'marks' on pulley.
Use/have on hand:'Wite-out' or small dab white paint. Engine off, get under the front of truck, and mark the pulley timing mark, @ the 6 or 8 degree mark. They are all marked from factory, but you will have to 'highlight' it, so that it's visible using the lite, from above. The lamp will 'pulse';it's that pulse you will use to see what your timing is currently set to.
Pull the trigger to get the pulse-very important to be on cyl #1- aim lite to the pointer, get the correct angle by trial n error.
To change/adjust it, lossen the hard-to-reach bolt that locks the clamp, at the base of the distributor. Loosen a little, then move it SLOWLY with engine running, to get the degrees advance you seek. Then tighten. You're done. |
cartner
| | Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2002 - 02:42 am: |
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I talked to the mech today about this, when i got the oil changed. He said it could cause the valves to eventually burn out and didn't recommend doing it to run 87 or 89. I'm not sure HOW accurate that is, but that IS what he told me. Thoughts? |
Holger E Schaarschmidt (Creel)
| | Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2002 - 06:16 am: |
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My 1991 3dr 3.5l V8i Disco has covered in excess of 212,500 miles and is still running strong!!
I did however replaced all bearings and seals in the transfer case last week, gears were still in top order, last year I installed a R380 gearbox replacing the old LT77 after the LT77 had covered 188,000 miles, so all in all, I really cannot complain! |
Jo
| | Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2002 - 06:49 am: |
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430,000 kilometres on my 1992 200 Tdi,
one gearbox, one transfer box, loads of halfshafts, one head gasket, replaced pistons and seals in calipers front and back 2 weaks ago,replaced rear stub axle last weakend as seals were leaking, all suspension rubbers, rear A frame ball joint, new chrome swivels last year. Regular oil and filter changes. Not far to the half million mark |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2002 - 07:29 pm: |
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Cartner:
Not meaning to 'argue' with your wrench, but...
the valves do not care what the octane rating is, in any vehicle. Period.
The cylinders/walls, during compression and combustion, do care. The rod bearings really care, therefore the crankshaft really cares. Piston crowns, rings and ring-lands really care. Spark plugs do not care. As long as there is little or no pre-ignition,(the timing is 'relaxed') under load, then octane is sort of a non issue.
Also, depending upon the extent of modern electronics now routinely found in our vehicles, 'knock sensors' adjust for octane, automatically. Further, our compresson ratios are modest, our trucks being eng'rd for torque, not max power under high steady state throttle positions. Short duration, infrequent pinging(pre-ignition) is not a taxing issue on our robust little V-8's.
MAJOR closing remark: do you think you can get 3 different grades of fuel in Malaysia, Mozambique, Nepal, Tibet, The Canary islands, and outer Mongolia ?
We 'mericans are spoiled for choice, but there are many regions where the LR get what's on offer, and that doesn't include Union76 race fuel.
cheers- ol' mid-grade doug james, |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 09:27 am: |
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Yeah, but in Malaysia, Mozambique, Nepal, Tibet, The Canary islands, and outer Mongolia do you think that you'd be running a V8, or a diesel?? What % of all of the V8 Rovers are in North America??
Odds are, if you're not in the US, you're in a diesel.....
-L |
Moose
| | Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 11:24 am: |
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My 95 Disco 3.9 with 135k on it runs better than my 97 Disco 4.0 with 80k on it. Go figure. Only problem was a broken rocker shaft (@ 130K) and the minors (rocker cover gaskets, intake manifold).*Knock on wood*
Moose |
cartner
| | Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 11:45 am: |
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No offense taken, he was simply saying that he would only do it if we still had leaded gas because the lower octane level might not prevent burning the valves for a reaon I am not entirely familiar with. I'm all in favor of doing it, but I will talk to my other mech at home to get a final word as he's a Rover/ British car specialist and will know more then.
But I do also agree about the international question of whether you would have a V8i or a Diesel....regardless, thanks. |
JEspelien (Superj)
| | Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 12:35 pm: |
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The mechanic in question is correct in encouraging you to run premium fuel, if you have a 1996-1998 4.0 liter and the premium has Techron in its additive package. Chevron chemical's Techron used in various premium fuels has been PROVEN to help prevent the formation of carbon deposits in the ring groove and on the exhaust valve. Since 89 pump octane fuel is all that is needed to prevent detonation in most 4.0 liter GEMS engines you can also just add Techron to your 89. There is also lots of combustion research showing retarded timing on port fuel injected motors CONTRIBUTES to exhaust valve deposits by raising the exhaust temperature unnecessarily. Heck maybe retarding the timing and running 87 would be a good way to alleviate newer Rover envy if you have a 94-95 3.9 because then you too can drop $2000 on a valve job you didn't need. |
Jon Williams (Jonw)
| | Posted on Monday, April 29, 2002 - 01:14 pm: |
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Do Series Rovers count in this post? If so, 527,366 miles I've put on my '67 IIa. Bought it new way back then. Problems? Aside from a 2.25L Diesel that's shot...
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