| Author |
Message |
    
Larry Grubbs (Larryg)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 09:33 pm: | 
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I need some help setting the Wheel Bearing preload. If it matters, it is for a 1990 Range Rover. I know there is an easier way than the way the dealer recommends. I also bet someone has written this up in a document. Let me have it!
[email protected]
Larry |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 09:41 pm: |
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http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Tech/Maintain/Wheel_Bearing_Replacement/wheel_bearing_replacement.html
-P |
Larry Grubbs (Larryg)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 10:04 pm: |
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Great document, I thought you might have something. I'll give the preload a try. But I do have a side note about pressing out the bearing races:
To remove old Bearing Races use a brass punch and a hammer. Beat the piss out of it trying not to damage the hub. It can be done. not only will this save you a few dollars, but you don't have to risk dirtying up the wives car and getting your ass kicked.
Once you get one out, or have a new one. Take the new bearing race and grind/sand (Use Demel Mototool) the outside of the bearing race down where the race slides in and out of the hub with a fair amount of ease. Now you have a tool for inserting new bearing races once you have removed the old ones.
If you don't want to do this then don't, but it works.
Larry |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 10:09 pm: |
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I've tried doing it the old fashioned way. In fact, I had a guy stop by when I first did my wheelbearings who had done it that way for 20 years. I had no success and neither did he. The local shop charges me $10 to press out and press in bearings. I just pay the money. It's a once every 30-60k mile job. I don't mind eating $40.
-P |
Larry Grubbs (Larryg)
| | Posted on Thursday, May 02, 2002 - 10:25 pm: |
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Fair Enough!
Larry |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 12:06 pm: |
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Given the way the bearings obscure each other in the hub, I would really like to see the tool they use to press the first race out. Once the first one is out, it would be easy. I would not be surprised to find that the shop to which you take your hubs to used an impact chisel to get the first one out and maybe a hydraulic press to remove the remaining race.
Having a press and recently done this job, I'm not sure that it wasn't easier to use a hammer.
As for using the brass punch, the races are in way too tightly to use a brass punch without destroying your punch. Use a steel punch and be very careful-very careful.
Peace,
Paul |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 12:09 pm: |
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D'Oh, the only real way to set bearing preload is using a dial indicator and measure the actual runout.
EVERY other means is a compromise. As Lord Kelvin put it best "you cannot know until you can measure" or some such.
Go buy a $35 indicator and a $35 magnetic mount and MEASURE your preload.
Peace,
paul |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 12:11 pm: |
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I think they have a Bigger Phuckin Hammer than I do!
-P |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 12:22 pm: |
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Paul -please don't take this as an personal attack, but
dial indicator for wheel bearing preload ? - that's a wee bit extreme. These things are done thousands of times every day, everywhere and sure, they're probably not set to the 6th decimal place, but really don't need to be. Based on the number of variables of all the other related components, and then how the trucks are used, it seems a bit silly. Most folks who do these all the time go by feel gained from experience, and admittedly the average weekend mechanic doesn't have that to rely on, but frankly once it has been explained or shown once, it's not all that much to look/feel for.
I think someone who is inexperienced with using dial indicators would have a MUCH higher chance of using that improperly, than just doing it by hand in the first place.
My nickels worth.....
Bill |
Larry Grubbs (Larryg)
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 12:27 pm: |
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Paul,
I have used a brass punch several times. It works great. Granted it is a relatively large punch. But nevertheless it is brass.
Larry |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 01:36 pm: |
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OK, I use a steel punch and a dial indicator.
Lost a diff once because I didn't set the pinion engagement or preload correctly. Wiped out a set of wheel bearings once too. I try to hold myself to a single momentary stupid attack per function:-)!
If I'm working on my truck, I might do things differently. If I'm working on other's trucks (which is happening more and more), or trying to advise someone (trying to be as helpful as everyone was to me before I felt as comfortable with these trucks), I wish to use the method that will result in the fewest liability insurance claims.
Peace,
Paul |
Milan
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 02:15 pm: |
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I'm with Bill on this one. I don't even know how one would use a dial indicator to measure a wheel bearing preload. Could somebody enlighten me?
I think preload can be measured by a torque wrench not dial indicator. I can see using the dial on measuring backlash or runout on things. |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2002 - 02:46 pm: |
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Paul - no hard feelings or anything.... I just feel that precision measuring tools are not quite as easy to use accurately as one might think. I see from another post that you're neck deep in ISO, etc - BTDT - wrote/implemented/audited/administered an 9002 program (yes it does suck!) and one part of that was R&R studies for my guys in using simple equipment like dial & electronic calipers/durometers/mic's, etc and you'd think that guys who use these daily (myself included) would do it with some repeatable accuracy and also be achieve similar measurements to one another - but it ain't so! R&R value variances in the 10-15th percentile are generally acceptable, but initially we were getting 40-60% ranges! - And this is with folks generally experienced in the use of such tools. After plenty of training, the results did drop to an acceptable level.
Anyhoo - the point of all that crap is that someone inexperienced or a first time user would not have very accurate or useable results with precision equipment.
Have fun with your program (yes, that is a smart ass comment  good luck)
Bill |
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