Hello! Just got my new 1996 Discovery! Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2002 Archives - Technical » Discovery » Hello! Just got my new 1996 Discovery! « Previous Next »

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
  ClosedClosed: New threads not accepted on this page        

Author Message
 

bender2033
Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2002 - 01:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hello all! I have been wanting a Rover for many many years and today I picked up a used 1996 Discovery with 81k on the odo for $11k. Only problem is that in the few days between the test drive and delivery the owner's manual has gone on holiday. Now I have no idea about what type of fluids (oil, transmission, diff) to buy!

Would someone kindly post capacities and types of fluids needed? I want to change all that I can.

- Engine Oil

- Transmission Fluid

- Front and Rear Differential

- Center Differential

What else do you guys think I should check/change?

Maybe flush the radiator?

Flush the brake fluid?

Thanks!

-bender2033
 

tom fioretti
Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2002 - 07:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi. This info straight from my 1996 owner's manual..

- Engine Oil : 6.95 us qt w/filter change

- Transmission Fluid : Auto trans : 9.5 us qt
Man trans : 2.8 us qt

- Front and Rear Differential : 1.8 us qt each

- Center Differential : 2.4 us qt

- Cooling System : 12.0 us qt

- Fuel Tank : 23.4 us gal

- Firing Order : 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2

- Spark Plug gap : 0.033 to 0.038

- Spark Plug type : Champion RN11YCC

-Ignition Timing : 5 degrees BTDC plus or minus 1 degree with vacuum pipe disconnected

- Idle speed (in neutral with A/C off) : 700 RPM plus or minus 28 RPM

- Tire pressure for 235/70 R16 radial : 26 psi front, 34 psi rear

- Brake Fludid : complies with FMVSS 116 DOT4


Good luck !
 

Milan
Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2002 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You can use motor oil in the engine (5-30/40/50W or 10-30/40/50/60W)

Auto tranny takes ATF Dexron IID or M2C 33 (F or D)
Power steering ATF Dexron IID or M2C 33 (F or D)
t-case 80 or 90W gear oil
diffs 80 or 90W gear oil
 

Anonymous
Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2002 - 06:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Don't forget to check the swivel joints! 80 or 90w gear oil.
 

bender2033
Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 12:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the GREAT info!!

-bender2033
 

Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

For brake fluid, use Castrol GTLMA. It has been said that the seals in the Rover are natural rubber and the GTLMA is friendly to the seals.
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike,

Not that LMA is bad to use, but the rubber-seal-thing applies to old Series Land Rovers.... FWIW.....


-L
 

Greg French
Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 10:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You can find owners manuals and repair guides on ebay all the time. I suggest picking up one of each.
 

bender2033
Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just got an official LR Disco manual from 4x4connection for $75. Whoot!

THanks guys!

-bender
 

doug james (Dgj95lwb)
Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 03:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

On your trans ATF, the Dexron II (referred in manuals, etc) has been superceded by Dexron III. Works perfect; also use it in power steering, which you should flush as well.

Also: remove and relace the sump gasket. Main reason: to clean the oil pick-up tube. There are posts in the archive describing engine failure from clogged pick-up screens,

FYI...change the thermostat at time of coolant flush. doug james.
 

anon
Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Doug,

the screen that you are refering to is in the oil pan??
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 04:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you drop the oil-pan, you'll see a pipe sticking down, that has a flying-saucer-shaped opening at the bottom... that's your oil pick-up tube. In the mouth of the tube, in the "flying saucer", there is a mesh screen. It gets coated w/ sludge, and clogs up.

-L
 

anon
Posted on Friday, May 10, 2002 - 04:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

great info, thanks. DISCO WEB ROCKS!
 

bender2033
Posted on Saturday, May 11, 2002 - 01:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hells yea! I second that anon!
 

Rob Ellins
Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2002 - 06:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just purchased a '96 SE7 myself, $11k - 84k on clock, now approaching 90k. Great vehicles in my opinion - oodles of character. Get your manual from 4x4 connection, Haynes is good too at $24.95.

Only thing odd on mine was that when replacing the front shocks I noticed the coil springs were different makes/?!! Probably explains why the front right is 3/4" lower than the left. Had to put it back together w/o replacing the springs cuz need it for work this week. I think I'll invest in an OME kit or similar and do the whole thing right.

Oh, and the ABS light comes on once in a while - typical I guess from reading this column - probably best to disconnect the bloody thing.
 

p m
Posted on Sunday, May 19, 2002 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rob,

the right front spring is supposed to be shorter than the left (on the NAS models). Moreover, OME spring kits also come with different right and left springs, unless you buy a matched set from ExpeditionExchange or elsewhere.

peter
 

bender2033
Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rob: The fox for the ABS seems to be re-seating the sensors at the wheel. Im gonna try it this weekend.
 

Rob Ellins
Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Peter,

Thanks - you are right, weird but true, my local dealer said the same thing. New front shocks certainly smoothed out the jiggles though!

On the ABS thing, I think I will try same re the sensors. Usually the light will come on after a good jolt at the front, sensor is probably loose or similar.
 

nick
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 01:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

what kind of front shocks did you install?
 

trevorgriffiths
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Another common ABS related fault is a worn out stub axle bearing . This bearing supports the CV joint, and when it wears out, it allows the CV joint too much radial play. This in turn knocks the abs sensor back and voila, ABS light on again! The bearing is cheap but not easy to access. You also shouild replace the hub seal, stub axle seal, drive member gasket and stub axle gasket during this repair.
The symptoms to look for when the bearing has gone bad, are fairly obvious. When applying the brake pedal at lower speeds, the ABS can be felt to come into play even on a straight dry road.
I have fixed a half dozen Rovers with this repair.
I hope this helps.
Trevor
 

bender2033
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Trevor,

I am planning some major maintence soon, new brakes etc, maybe this would be a good time for the stub axle bearing fix. I will have to check my manual for details since this is all new to me.

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration