| Author | Message | ||
     Marlon Familton (Marlon) New Member Username: Marlon Post Number: 2 Registered: 11-2003 |
I've changed brake rotors in my Porsche and Audi. How hard can the Disco be? Nonetheless I have always found tips from other's experiences very helpful. The posting at http://www.expeditionexchange.com/disco2brakes/ for changing brake pads is awesome, but I couldn't locate one for changing the rotors also. Anyone know where I can find a similar posting about changing the rotors? Thanks! | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 224 Registered: 11-2002 |
Doing the rotors is pretty easy. The only unique tool you need is the 2 1/16" socket for the hub nuts. Otherwise, it's basic hand tools (17mm socket, 13mm 12-pt socket for caliper bolts, snap ring pliers, few other common tools). You'll need new hub seals and a bearing repack should be done since you'll have it all apart. A new lock washer for the hub nuts, one per wheel, is also necessary. Search archives for more. But this is a very easy job if you've done it on other vehicles before, so long as no bearings are welded to the spindle (as I just had happen).  joe | ||
| andrew adia (Drew) Member Username: Drew Post Number: 46 Registered: 03-2003 |
Marlon, As Joe says it is a pretty easy job. It may be helpful to buy the rotor kit from DAP or EE. The kit comes with all the hardware you need; brake pad hub seals lock washers and anything else that is needed. If you are changing the rears don't forget to take out the ABS exciter ring on the inside of the rotor and install it on the new rear rotors. Drew | ||
| Jake Hartley (Jake) Member Username: Jake Post Number: 226 Registered: 03-2002 |
Marlon: Do a Google search for Spanish Trail Rover Club, Perrone Ford has a step by step in the tech section for doing this job. | ||
| todd slater (Toddslater) Senior Member Username: Toddslater Post Number: 350 Registered: 08-2002 |
Joe and Drew's advice would be useful if you had a D1...your profile states that you have an 01 D2. Follow the EE advice. Only thing to add is once you have the calipers off, all you need to do is remove the single set screw and remove the rotor from the hub. I've used a rubber mallet to persuade mine off....others have used bigger hammers. | ||
| Kahbahzahkee (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 619 Registered: 02-2002 |
The set screw is a #4 Pozidriv screw. It may or may not need to be removed using an impact driver depending on dirt or corrosion binding the set screw in place. Read the following post and filter through the bullshit there to read John Lee's posts if you really want to learn more about the use of impact drivers to do the Disco2 brake rotor job correctly. ../17/31894.html> | ||
| Marlon Familton (Marlon) New Member Username: Marlon Post Number: 3 Registered: 11-2003 |
Thanks for all the help! Your replies to my post have been extremely helpful. Other then some minor lingering questions below, I feel it's all over 'cept the cussing. Lingering questions: 1. I ordered Mintex pads, but see the OEM's come with new "bolts." I've seen references to getting new cotter pins or a "pin kit." Are the cotter pins the "bolts" referred to in the EE article on chaning pads? 2. Should I just buy new "set screws" and plan to replace them? 3. Brake Bleeding: when I did my Porsche's rotors, since it has 4 piston calipers, I had to open the bleed screws before retracting the brake pistons, otherwise I'd have never moved them. The EE article doesn't mention any of that, but rather just carefully monitoring the fluid level. Is this the case? Or am I going to have to do a bleed no matter what? Thanks again for all the help. Incidently, Dealer Estimate for full pads and changing rear rotors (only needs rear rotors): $900. Parts from Motorcars Ltd: $171 including shipping. Feeling of self accomplishment: priceless. Okay, I watch too much TV... | ||
| Brent (Silly_me) Member Username: Silly_me Post Number: 97 Registered: 07-2003 |
I bet the bolts they are referring to are the caliper bolts. I have never replaced mine, but instead use some thread locker on them. Never had a problem. As far as brake bleeding, on any of my cars I've never had to do that to retract the pistons. Just watch the fluid level as you do so. FWIW I usually do one brake at a time and have never had a problem with the fluid level rising too dramatically. Naturally if you did all four at the same time you would have a problem. | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 71 Registered: 02-2003 |
Ditto what Brent stated. I have never had to bleed while retracting the pistons. Just place a rag around the brake fluid container(can't think of the proper term) so it doesn't spill. Doing one at a time shouldn't be a problem - mine has never overflowed. don't know what you are paying for those but I buy from Atlantic British - Ferodo - they come with the caliper bolts - i always replace them jsut to be safe. I pay around $200 - for all four wheels. AB is overpriced in my opinion but considering the dealer wants $485 to change the pads ...... How often do you guys replace the brake fluid? sg - 00' DII | ||
| Kahbahzahkee (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 624 Registered: 02-2002 |
1) The "bolts" referred to on EE's site are the bolts that thread into the caliper guide pins. I'm not sure what the cotter pins are, but the "pin kit" refers to the caliper guide pins I mentioned above. The bolts referred to in the EE writeup are #3 in the following pic:  And are indicated by the yellow arrows in this pic:  I installed new caliper guide pin bolts when I installed my aftermarket shoes. 2) This is the rotor set screw:  Just reuse it, as it doesn't bear much of a load, so you should be safe. 3) Just monitor brake fluid level. It's that simple if you're careful with retracting the caliper piston. Of course, this information only applies for D2 rotor installs. Your profile indicates you own a 2001 D2, so you should be fine if this is the Disco you're referring to in this post. | ||
| Dean Chrismon (Chrismonda) Member Username: Chrismonda Post Number: 124 Registered: 12-2002 |
I have a 1998 Series 1 what is the difference between the brake systems and can someone give some diagrams of how to change the pads. | ||
| Brent (Silly_me) Member Username: Silly_me Post Number: 98 Registered: 07-2003 |
>>>I'm not sure what the cotter pins are<<< http://www.allproducts.com.tw/manufacture7/yungking/pin.jpg They are essentially the only thing holding your wheels on  | ||
| Marlon Familton (Marlon) New Member Username: Marlon Post Number: 4 Registered: 11-2003 |
Geeze.. talk about a detailed reply. This is great stuff, thanks! I know what cotter pins are, but haven't seen one in any diagrams or articles saying I'll need to mess with them on my D2. I just didn't know if I should have some on hand. I'm usually the one who gets the car all apart and then has to run to the parts store 4-5 times when the wife has the other car. Just tyring to plan ahead for a change. | ||
| Gerardo Garza (Gerry) (Mapmaker97) New Member Username: Mapmaker97 Post Number: 31 Registered: 06-2003 |
Marlon, How many miles do you have on your 01? Mine has around 39500, but I don't plan on changing my rotors just yet. Are yours severely worn from 4-wheeling? Gerry | ||
| Marlon Familton (Marlon) New Member Username: Marlon Post Number: 5 Registered: 11-2003 |
30,300 miles on the clock. (Actually the wife's toy). We bought it new... I think we drove it through a mud puddle once, but nothing off road. Took it in for the 30k last week and the dealer told me it needs brake pads and that the rear rotors needed replacing. I have the millimeter measurements (would have to post them tomorrow..) I guess I should double check their measurements before I disassemble.. but really don't have any reason to think they're jerking me around. Though I was certainly surprised that they said it needed rotors.. pads, I could see.. rotors? As we're taking off for a long trip at the end of the month, so I didn't want to take any chances.. |
