| Author |
Message |
    
big daddy
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 01:59 pm: | 
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So.......installing a suspension lift....say about 2" or so.....
All this requires is replacing the shocks and springs with longer ones?? That's it? Obviously if you go with a BIG lift there are other factors involved, but for maybe a 2" lift to get larger tires, is this all that needs to be done?
Seems SUPER easy and could save some big bucks if you just knocked it out over a weekend. Regular tools and the purchase of a spring compressor. Right? |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 02:04 pm: |
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yep - knock it out in a few hours.
but rent a spring compressor, if you even end up needing it |
Garrett #2
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 02:04 pm: |
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Yep!! It is that easy. I just did it 2 weeks ago and had no problems. You don't even need to buy the spring compressor! I just checked it out from Autozone for a couple of days. They have a "lend a tool" program anyone can use. It's great! Go for it. Good Luck |
gp (Garrett)
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 02:13 pm: |
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yeah Pep Boys is the same way. $20 deposit is all it takes. |
p m
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 02:46 pm: |
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big daddy,
get a couple of 900lb-rated ratchet straps. handier and cheaper than spring compressor. BTW, i have a spring compressor that i would be happy to part with.
peter |
big daddy
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 03:42 pm: |
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On that note..........
Since it's sooooo dam easy to do.....let me hear what you all think is the best kit to get. I KNOW I'm going with Bilstien shocks, no DOUBT. Which springs are the best for a comfy on road ride and durable offroad? I want about 2".
Do I need ANYTHING else besides springs and shocks? This seems to easy to be true. THANKS |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 03:49 pm: |
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Big Daddy,
Welcome to the world of "maybe".
Some folks do a 2 or 3 inch and get no vibrations at all. Others (albeit few) do a 1 inch lift and get driveline vibrations. Generally, you can do a 2" lift and be fine. What else do you have on your truck? Bumpers, sliders, etc.? I don't think any of the OME's will give you a 2" lift. RoverTym will after they settle, but for a while you will be at > 2" lift. I suggest you consider the RoverTym springs or OME springs. To find out about the RoverTym's with what you are trying to do, go to http://www.rovertym.com and contact John Bradley-Smith. To find out about the OME's, you should contact either Ho or John at http://www.expeditionexchange.com.
Tom |
Tate (Tate)
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 04:26 pm: |
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Something else to keep in mind: you can get vibes at stock height if your u-joints in the driveshafts are bad. I did. So if you do a 2 inch lift and get vibes, new u-joints and some grease might be a good idea before you go spending gobs of money on new driveshafts. Of course, if that still doesn't fix it you've got an extra set of ujoints :-) |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 04:44 pm: |
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I'm about 2-2.5" over stock with OME HD springs & shocks. Everthing's fine, except for the rotoflex, which has now become a temporary item in my driveline. Just blew another roto a couple weeks ago. I also have a chirping u-joint which will exlplode sooner or later...
you sure about Bilsteins? Stroll over to EE and have a look at their selection of OME springs & shocks. I was going to go Bilstein on my wife's Explorer, but ended up going with OME, and the ride is pretty sweet. |
p m
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 04:55 pm: |
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OME HD (751f/762r - JL correct me if i'm wrong) will give you about 1.75-2.25" of lift, front and rear. Your chances of getting vibrations are about 1/3. Ride with Bilstein shocks - fairly stiff but very controllable, with stockers - smoother by far but more lean from wind gusts and such. I don't know of Bilstein shocks matching longer OME springs - EE has some proper-length OME shocks. I personally found OME shocks too soft for the Disco, but these may not have been the right ones.
peter |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 05:12 pm: |
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I run the Rover Tym springs in rear with stock shocks (still). I also moved my rear springs to the front-classic Cheap Bastard (eh, Perrone?). I did have to trim a little to fit the 235/85/16 tires, but it was well worth it.
I know Peter suggests the ratchet straps, but I strongly suggest the McPherson strut style spring compressors. When you get to the front springs, keep your fingers out from between the two compressors-you could easily lose a finger if the spring bounds under compression.
Expect to have to replace your front U-joints at the very least. The angle on the front is much more extreme than the rear. If your front driveshaft has not been regularly greased, expect to have a hellish time separating the two pieces-a press helps immensely. The roto-flex if it has more than a few thousand miles will need replacement shortly after the lift. I have seen one that destroyed itself in just a few thousand miles and that was a new Rotojunk.
This is one of those jobs that is only exceeded by the brake jobs in simplicity and utility.
And-these trucks look bitchin' up a few inches.
Do I think two inches is enough-hell no! Maybe next year, longer shocks (about time), longer brake lines and bump stops too. But, then I'll need 35" tires and 30 spline lockers... Dual shock mounts...
And, a hummer to pull the trailer:-).
Yee Ha!
Paul |
Ron Ward (Ronward)
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 09:03 pm: |
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RTE 2" HD front and rear (RR4 and RR1) with 10mm spring spacers front (15mm on front passenger side) and 1" RTE spring spacers in the rear. I run 235 85 MTs and have never even come close to rubbing at full articulation. I run stock replacement Bilstein shocks and stock brake lines, radius arms and trailing arms.
Oh, and no vibrations at all!!!
Ron Ward |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 09:12 pm: |
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Ron:
Where did you get your spring spacers? How much?
Thanks,
Mike B. |
muskyman
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2002 - 09:36 pm: |
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I'm always amazed at what a bad wrap Roto-flexes get.
the problem is they arent meant to run at an angle
has anyone thought of keeping the roto-flex and going to a cv with the roto-flex as the lift height increases?
back when I was autocrossing a bmw 3 series I tried replacing a rotoflex in the bmw with a solid u-joint thinking the drivline would "feel tighter" blew the getreg 5 speed that weekend,
thought it was a fluke. then I blew another 2 weeks later.
went back to the roto flex
IMHO roto-flexes absorb shock. i'd think it also may save front axle cv's or center-diffs from unneeded abuse in rovers.a schock load will continue through the drivline till its absorbed or disapated.
Big Daddy,
I love my bilsteins in my rover dont let these guys change your mind the work well! |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 12:45 pm: |
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Musky - agreed on the rotoflex issue. You can easily see the painfull angle they run at after a lift. Interesting thought with the CV/roto setup...I'll have to address my shafts sooner or later and will have to research options (other than simply swapping roto for a u-joint). My rotos fry after a little off-road use, particularly after I spend some time creeping around in 4Low. All I know is that I don't want any more dead rotos bouncing around the room - replaced it last night and now it's all smooth as glass again on the highway... |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 01:05 pm: |
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When I saw the title of this discussion, I thought it was about getting a massage from (fill in fantasy name here).
Rats. |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 01:29 pm: |
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I asked Bill at Great Basin about doing a double carden shaft with the roto a while ago. He checked with his drive shaft guy and said that he could make it, but he couldn't balance it or something. I don't remember exactly how the conversation went, but there was some problem. I just converted to a u-joint, although I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to do a double carden shaft with the rote. The conversion was so cheap and easy I just went with the u-joint, and it's always easier not to reinvent the wheel.
Matt |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 01:37 pm: |
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he could make it, but he couldn't balance it
hmmmmm |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 01:44 pm: |
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I thought about having him make it anyway and getting it balanced at my local drive shaft shop, but decided not to deal with it. By don't take my word for it, call Bill since things might have changed and this was a while ago so I might be a little fuzzy.
Matt |
Ron Ward (Ronward)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 03:23 pm: |
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Mike B.
The 10mm and 5mm spring spacers are ARB products I got from 4by4connection.com I think. Check EE as they may have them too. The 1" spacers came from Rovertym. The ARB nylon spacers are about $5 or $8 each and the RTE 1" spacers that replace the stock spring perches were $150.
Ron W |
Mike B.
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 10:01 pm: |
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Ron:
Thanks for the reply. I have the RTE 2" springs and I'm not sitting level anymore. I guess need to call John at Rovertym to pick his brain.
Thanks,
Mike B. |
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