| Author |
Message |
    
Brad (Brad_N)
| | Posted on Friday, May 17, 2002 - 06:50 pm: | 
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My 96 disco (4.0) stopped working today.
This is what happened. I drove down the road about 1 mile, afdter placing the car in reverse, it stalled out. I did not hear hte fuel pump start when I turned ont eh key. I usally hear a humming sound form the fuel tank. I waited for a few minutes & tried again. I hear the pump start. car started but died after a few seconds. I have not heard the pump start ever since. I picked up a relay from Rovers North just in case it was that. (it was a small square one that goes under the passenger side kick plate). I ckecked the voltage at the pump it was at most 5 volts. RN said it should be 12v.
What could be the cause of the low voltage. I bet if it has 12 volts the car would start. am I wrong??
Where do I go from here? Could it be the relay module under the bonnet? How can I check to see if that is still good?
Thanks
Brad |
jp
| | Posted on Saturday, May 18, 2002 - 06:12 am: |
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Check the volts at the relay socket if they are low, there is a problem before the relay, If they are 12V coming in, there is a bad connection between the relay output and the pump. There is a common history of bad connections in a wiring connector near the tank - see if you can follow the wire from the tank connector towards the front - (I think it runs down the RH chassis rail) looking for a joint of some sort. You can test volts along the wire with a pin through the casing, if you jumper the pump relay socket so the pumps runs continuously (30->87 should do it). As soon as you find 12V, you know there is a problem rearwards of that point.
Is you 5V measured at the tank connector, with it pulled off the tank?
jp |
Brad (Brad_N)
| | Posted on Saturday, May 18, 2002 - 07:34 am: |
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I have check the volts at the relay and I have 12v. Also I have check the volts at the pump withteh wires connected and not conected. Both are reading about 5v. I also traced the wires from the pump to the first connector and also have 5v there. I am going to trace the wires all the back to teh front if need be. Could the main relay be bad thus not providing enough volts to teh pump?
thanks
brad |
Buddy
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 12:33 pm: |
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The only thing bad is your typing. |
isaac
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 02:27 pm: |
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whoa there! - this is sounding familiar. make sure you have the right lead! I thought I was only getting around 4 volts to my fuel pump, when I discovered that I was in fact measuring a hot fuel-level sender wire, instead of the actual pump lead.
you should only see 12v's for 1 second after turning the ignition on. Measure at the fuse-box first, to make sure you are getting the righ voltage from the box, and then from the rear.
good luck,
isaac / seattle / 91 RR "Gatsby" |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Monday, May 20, 2002 - 04:54 pm: |
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Be careful with piercing the insulation to do your testing. There was an anecdote of somebody finding (after paying a few truck payments in dealer labor) that the points where the insulation had presumably been pierced for testing had corroded badly and made things worse.
Paul |
Brad (Brad_N)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 09:27 pm: |
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It ended up being the MFU located next to the washer fluid tank.
And to the guy who commented on my spelling, "BITE ME" |
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