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Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Senior Member
Username: Robbie

Post Number: 518
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 05:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi All,

I got a Garmin V for Christmas and I want to hardwire it to the truck. I have been surfing the web and have found the bare wire data/power cables for the gps, but no bare wires for just the power. Does it matter if I use the bare wire hookup for the power and just leave the bare data cables unhooked? Is there just a bare wire power cable? Or should I buy a cigarette lighter power cable and cut off the cig plug and bare the wires myself? Thanks for the help.

Also, would prefer if the gps would go off when the truck goes off (like it currently does with the cig plug). Where would it be best to connect to?
 

Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche)
Senior Member
Username: Jamooche

Post Number: 276
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rob,
I have the Garmin GPS V and I just bought the cig lighter / data cable too. I haven't done it for this cable yet, but I helped my friend cut the end off his XM radio cig lighter cable. Then just sepapate the ground wire from the power wire and wire them appropriately. We just pushed the power cable in with a fuse that only comes on with the ignition is on.

Jamil
 

Lance Doyle (Discokayaker)
New Member
Username: Discokayaker

Post Number: 15
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 06:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just hardwired mine a few weeks ago. You have the correct power cord. Just don't use the data wires. I tapped into a power source that powers off when I turn my key off but can't remembr off-hand which one.

Lance
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 1405
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 06:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Do not do what Jamil recommends - that is a great way to burn up fuse box and GPS!

Doesn't matter what cable you use, but wire it properly with its own power and ground, IMO unswitched power is better for a GPS so you have the option of keeping it powered while truck is off. Also - if memory serves, it takes like a 1 amp or 1/2 amp fuse - so obviously the GPS is VERY sensitive to overvoltage - another reason to take the time to wire it properly.

Bill
 

Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Senior Member
Username: Robbie

Post Number: 519
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

that is actually one thing i do not want to do is tap into the current fuse box again. i already have my aux lights and cb powered off the fuse box, and i hate that. i really want to figure out some way to have everything cleanly connected, either directly to the battery, or to a separate fuse box, wired especially for aux options. anyone have any idea on how to wire a new fuse box, that is switchable power?

i'm thinking of using something like painless wiring has: http://www.painlesswiring.com/fuseblock.htm
all the way down at the bottom of the page, one of the "CirKit Boss Circuit Isolating Auxiliary Fuse Block Kits." Probably the 7-CIRCUIT WEATHER RESISTANT FUSE BLOCK - the 3 constant/4 ignition, or the 7 ignition block. What wire/circuit do you think i could tap off for power of this? Is this just a dumb idea? Thanks for info so far.
 

Alan Bates (Alanb)
Senior Member
Username: Alanb

Post Number: 428
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I wired a three outlet cig lighter from radio shack directly to the battery, real easy, cheap, and no problems. I then run the power to my GPS with the cig lighter cable. I then have two more inputs for other junk. With the cig lighter power cable, you can move the GPS from car to car if you desire.

Get the lights and CB off the fuse box, as Bill mentioned you are asking for it, plus don't forget to use relays for the lights if you haven't done so.

Check these out:

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/audiopipe/

 

Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche)
Senior Member
Username: Jamooche

Post Number: 278
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2004 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bill...I agree that my way is totally wrong. However my friend with the XM has had it for 6 months with no problems in an Oldsmobile Aurora of all things.

But I do agree that if you are going wheeling into the wilderness it's best to have everything done safely and properly.
 

Walter Dent (Walter)
New Member
Username: Walter

Post Number: 35
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 06:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Fuses don't protect from over voltage, they protect wiring from over current. They do not always protect the device they are hooked to.
If there is any over voltage protection it would be in the cig- plug.
Before you wire anything directly to truck power make sure it does run on 12vdc and that the supplied plug does not reduce voltage. It sounds like from some of the posts here that this particular application is 12vdc.
Also if your truck has interior lights that fade off in stead of turning off be sure you don't use that circuit to power anything. Under voltage does just as much damage as over voltage.
 

Randy Maynard (Rans)
Senior Member
Username: Rans

Post Number: 742
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I used a cigartte lighter power cord and clipped the lighter plug off and ran to a 2.5 amp fuse in my auxillary fuse box. I couldn't find any literature on what fuse to use but after reading what Bill wrote I think I will get a 1 amp fuse. I ran the wire in the front of the dashboard at the window in that trough and down the side of the dash into the panel and out to my fuse box uner the hood that I installed for my auxillary lighting.
 

Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Senior Member
Username: Robbie

Post Number: 520
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

hey Rans, is that fuse box you installed constantly hot, or is it switchable via ignition?

i currently have a relay for my muchacho Hellas, and i have the switch powered out of the fuse box for the lights (cb has been powered that way for 4 years though) but like you said, i need to change it and wire it direct. But i have a real fear of leaving everything on, and coming out to a completely dead truck because my gps, cb and (not as likely) lights were left on (though i guess that is better than a burnt out truck). Does anyone have it setup so that your aux stuff shuts off with the truck, but is not biting power out of your fuse box? Is my dead battery fear unfounded? Eventually I expect to have a fridge as well, so if I am going to wire up switchable power source, might as well do it now (because i think i would want the fridge on switchable power as well).

i've seen the ee audiopipe dist blocks, and that is something like i would like to use, but again, with switchable power. i'm sure i'm probably just being paranoid.
 

Randy Maynard (Rans)
Senior Member
Username: Rans

Post Number: 746
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Constant Hot. I prefer to be able to work the lights/auxilary stuff even if the engine is off. Just requires being aware to turn them off when not needed rather than rely on the ignition. I particularly liek it out on the trail with the GPS so when you stop to talk or extract someone or whatever you don't HAVE to turn the GPS off. My CB is wired to switchable power though.
 

Robbie Donaldson (Robbie)
Senior Member
Username: Robbie

Post Number: 521
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2004 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i have my lights on constant hot, and i actually do plan to leave them constant hot, so i guess that is not a big deal. the gps, i have batteries in, plus a spare set, so that if i need it to work without truck on, I can, but would prefer it to go off, like it does currently, after 25 seconds of losing vehicle power (with the cig power). and cb, i seem to leave that on all the time, since it sits below eye level, and makes no sound unless there is constant chatter, easy to forget.
 

Donald McFarlane (Dsmcf)
Member
Username: Dsmcf

Post Number: 74
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

"I helped my friend cut the end off his XM radio cig lighter cable"

Beautiful. I can see a new line of jokes springing up...

"How many discowebbers does it take to cut the end off of an electrical cable assembly?"
 

Donald McFarlane (Dsmcf)
Member
Username: Dsmcf

Post Number: 75
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

(One to hold the wire, one for the cutters, one for moral support, three of four for general criticism, one to check against the service manual, one to relay progress back to the board, and one to take the requisite digital pictures for the tech section...)
 

Donald McFarlane (Dsmcf)
Member
Username: Dsmcf

Post Number: 76
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Do Snap-On make wirecutters?
 

Sean Roche (Crazy_fish)
New Member
Username: Crazy_fish

Post Number: 19
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Another thought is to connect all your toys to a constant 'hot" source using a relay ( and fuses ) and putting a switch on it.
So, you can always have power to the toys without the ignition on, but can turn them all off with a switch so you don't leave anything on accidentally.
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 1414
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jamil - just saw your reply today.

So, if it is "totally wrong" and not safe or proper - why do it at all?! Much less recommend it to people who are asking sincere questions.

You were told in no uncertain terms in this thread
about aux lighting that it was not only a stupid practice, but dangerous to just shove wires in the fusebox - yet you insist on recommending it again.
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If you want to screw up your truck - Fine - don't recommend that others do it when you know it's wrong

Bill
 

Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche)
Senior Member
Username: Jamooche

Post Number: 294
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bill,
I am glad you brought that to my attention again. I understood that the switch could blow out if there was no relay and the load is too high, but I did not see the ending post by Axel about the fire hazards of doing it that way. What I meant by "totally wrong" was that it was an unorthodox method of wiring, not necessairliy unsafe.

I really do apologize for giving the incorrect advice.

The strange thing is that I learned to do it that way from a friend who wires police car lights for vehicles in western MA. He said he does it all the time and there is nothing wrong with it. I was also told by a LR mechanic that it was not the best way, but safe for the low intensity lights I have.

But just now rereading that entire topic, I think I will go to my truck tonight and take those wires out and have them done properly.

Thanks for bringing it to my attention and sorry for the bad advice. I will try not to do it again.

Jamil
 

Craig Kobayashi (Koby)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Koby

Post Number: 961
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jamil-

By all means, do what you want with your own rig.

However, I'm concerned with your willingness to dispense unsound advice so freely on this board. Dispensing this bad advice is a liability not only to you but also dangerous for the dumb schmuck who may read your advice and (god forbid) think it's a good idea.

You have justified your actions by using a "but others have done it" argument. We all know this excuse holds as much water as a strainer.

Anyone who understands anything about wiring electrical accessories knows that fuses are rated to provide current up to a specific level. Adding accessories to a factory-fused circuit on the Discovery is just asking for trouble.

It's supremely important to understand the basics of electrical physics when wiring up CBs, GPSs, auxiliary lights, stereo units, etc. If you don't understand these basics, your run the risk of electrical and physical damage to your truck.

Identify the problems with the following common scenarios when wiring electrical accessories in the Disco:

  • Using a 20 gauge wire from a Hella relay to power a pair of Hella 4000s with 130W bulbs
  • Extending your GPS power cable using 20 gauge wire directly connected to the battery, sans fuse
  • Wiring a pair of 55W Hella 550s with a switch rated at 3A without using a relay.
  • Wiring your CB power cable to your headlamp fuse

If you can't name the hazards in the basic scenarios listed above have no business dispensing advice about wiring electrical accessories.



 

Jamil Abbasy (Jamooche)
Senior Member
Username: Jamooche

Post Number: 298
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I agree I have a lot to learn about electrical systems and I will not go posting again about things I am not familiar with.

About my justification, I was initially concerned about this way of wiring and that is why I checked it out with those 2 experts (one from the State and the LR mechanic). I have no intentions of harming my truck. Maybe it still doesn't hold water...should I have gotten a 3rd set of advice?

Yes, it was wrong advice, but I hope you can see that I only posted it since the 2 professionals told me it was safe. I'm a dental student, not a mechanic so I have to trust the advice given by these so called experts.

Jamil

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