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Crash (Crash)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 09:07 am: | 
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Well, as I posted earlier with the parts descriptions, I have now installed my actuator and it works beautifully. I have a couple of tidbits of further advice if anyone wants to do it this way.
The actuator has built in limit switches--In other words, it automatically shuts off at full extension and retraction. Its throw is 1-7/8"--this means that when you make the arm that comes off the CDL nut, the distance between the pivit centers (the center of the nut and the center of the hole that the arm will mount to) needs to be pretty damn close--I used 88mm--so that when the actutor extends/contracts, the nut is turned the appropriate amount (about 27.7 degrees). Double check this work before you do it yourself.
I used the 75lb actuator--I believe the 25lb would work (and work quicker since it is just a different gearing ratio)--it is a toss up on which one to use--
I did not use a timing relay--since the actuator has limit switches and you can hear it operating, I used a DPDT momentary switch to activate it. It is simple to operate and since it is momentary, you only have a hot contact to the actuator during operation.
For wiring, I ran a positive and negative wire from the battery (with in line fuse) up the A pillar, under the headliner, to the panel where the sunroof switches would be, if I had sunroofs. I also ran two wire from here to the actuator. All four wires exit the wiring bung behind the glovebox in the Passenger side (for LHD) firewall. Using the DPDT switch, you can have the polarity switched to the actuator depending on which way the switch is thrown.
I made out of bar stock the arm attached to the CDL bolt, and the extension from this arm to the actuator. The actuator is mounted on an "L" bracket and this bracket is attached to the sill by two rivnuts. I fashioned an attachment from the actuator to the bar extension using a copper pipe reducer and securing it with a couple ball pins so "IF" it should even fail, I can remove it in under a minute. Since the actuator is sealed and salt spray tested, I did not enclose it, but eventually I will make a rubber boot for it.
I went mudding yesterday and all worked perfectly. I have not wired in the bypass switch for faking out the computer, but I will when I get motivated. Should be easy.
The list of materials that I bought was the actuator ($160), a momentary switch ($3.95), and in-line fuse holder ($3),two rivnuts and an L bracket ($4), some barstock ($5), and some electrical split-cover tubing for the wiring ($2). You could probably go cheaper on the actuator, but I found this to be the best bang for the buck for a ultra-high quality unit.
I will post pictures in my folder momentarily (on the Disco2owners yahoo site--I will try and make a folder here later today)
Cheers,
C. Davis |
Roverine
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2002 - 02:24 pm: |
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Thanks for the detailed update. Will look for the pics over at the yahoo D2 owners site.
Kim |
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