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Kristopher March (Apexdisco)
Senior Member
Username: Apexdisco

Post Number: 271
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I purchased an extra light switch for my truck. The switch I got from AB is identical to the rear fog light switch on the dash. I plan to use this next to the front fog light switch.

There are five electrical connections on this new switch. I have three coming in from my Hella lights. I have no idea how to go about wiring this thing up.

My initial thoughts were to solder a wire to each connection post on the switch. This would allow me to test the connections on each wire more easily. I would have to narrow down which three posts I need.

Does anyone have a better understanding of this?

Please help.
 

john east (Jeast)
New Member
Username: Jeast

Post Number: 13
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 09:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

http://www.discoweb.org/lights/2.jpg
I found this while digging. Someone else told me trial and error. If you have success please let me know. I want to wire mine to a factory switch also.
 

Bill Mallin (Billmallin)
Member
Username: Billmallin

Post Number: 144
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

After posting this thread: ../17/39874.html>
I found out that the non-clicking switch is a huge pain the ass to make work.

Buy either a rear wiper switch or a cruise control switch and use it. You can pop off the cover from the switch you bought and use it on the clicker switch.

Click switch available here:
https://www.expeditionexchange.com/genuine/ (7th thing down)

Good luck.
 

Kristopher March (Apexdisco)
Senior Member
Username: Apexdisco

Post Number: 273
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Cool, Bill - thanks!

This should get me going on this project. I'll have some time this weekend. I still want to make the non-click switch work for now. Plus I'm a cheap-ass so I don't want to pay for another one.

John - I'll be sure to post once I get it working. Thanks for the link.
 

Bill Mallin (Billmallin)
Member
Username: Billmallin

Post Number: 145
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yea... if you get it to work, let us know; I tried and no luck. The clicker was my solution.
 

Craig Kobayashi (Koby)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Koby

Post Number: 1046
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Kristopher-

You'll probably spend more money trying to get the factory fog-light wiring to work with your Hellas.

Which Hella lamps are you using?

If you're using anything >100W bulb I would not use the factory fog-light wiring as the wiring is not sufficient to carry the amperage a 100W lamp requires.
 

Bill Mallin (Billmallin)
Member
Username: Billmallin

Post Number: 146
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Excellent point. I used the factory wiring to power the relay. I used 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relay to the lights.
 

Kristopher March (Apexdisco)
Senior Member
Username: Apexdisco

Post Number: 274
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, February 09, 2004 - 11:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I plan to use the wiring and harness that came with the Hella lights (FF1000's).

if that doesn't work, i've been thinking about just drilling a small hole and placing the switch under the steering wheel.

I'll let you all know how it goes.
 

Gary Grey (All4s)
New Member
Username: All4s

Post Number: 20
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 - 02:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

just did the same thing tonight its not so bad chaps first pull the fog lamp switch out out the dash a slight up down and out motion should do the trick then you will see 4 wires in two groups of two, the group on the left wire one is hot all the time .The last wire is the swiched/latched power to the light in the switch all i did was cut and splice one wire to #4 this is the "coil" wire on the relay so now when my switch light comes on (when I press the button ) my hellas are on


PS wire #4 is the red/orange one if you are not sure use a test light to conferm before you start cutting stuff . If you guys need more help email me .
have fun
gary
afirover@yahoo.com
 

Jamie (Rover_puppy)
Senior Member
Username: Rover_puppy

Post Number: 858
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

www.expeditionexchange.com/hella/indexmain.htm
 

michael harrington (Mike97d1)
New Member
Username: Mike97d1

Post Number: 28
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2004 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i just wired my hella 500 using a factory switch.everything works,but the illumination is not correct.the little light on the switch is always on. i heard you have to go into the switch itself, but i'm not sure...
 

Corey (Discobro)
Senior Member
Username: Discobro

Post Number: 350
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Monday, February 16, 2004 - 03:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just happen to outline my experience with this. Here is a cut and paste....

Wiring Hella lights using factory Land Rover fog lamp switch ("clicker") and wires and relay provided by Hella.

These instructions outline the wiring of Hella 500's using a 30 amp relay (provided with the Hella lights - also available at Radio Shack) and the wiring harness provided by Hella. The LR installed into is a 96 Discovery I. I purchased the factory fog lamp switch from Atlantic British.

Step 1: Mount the relay
First find a location that will work well to mount the relay. Ideally it should be near the opening in the firewall and should mount directly to the firewall inside the engine compartment. In the 96 D1, there is an ideal place to mount it on the drivers side fender between the ABS pump and air filter. There is a prethreaded hole in the fender that takes a machine bolt. You will most likely need to make the hole in the relay mounting tab larger to accommodate the bolt, but it will save you from drilling holes in your rig.

Step 2: Install the fog lamp switch
First pull the plastic switch housing straight out from the dash (it has one dummy switch and the cruise master switch). When I installed my switch I couldn't find a harness that would plug into the back of it so I made my own "harness". Actually I just cut away the plastic part that surrounds the pins on the back side of the switch and soldered and shrink wrapped the wires. Nothing will bump loose that way.

Wiring the switch is pretty simple. You will notice small numbers on the pins on the switch. Pin #1 wire is connected to "Cigar Lighter" fuse in the main fuse box. I used a fuse clip on the wire that just clips around the 2 prong fuse and plugs in. Safe and easy and available at Radio Shack. I used the Cigar Lighter fuse so if I forget to turn the fog lights off, when I turn off the ignition the lights will turn off automatically. Pin #2 wire connects to the CC master switch Pin #2 wire. This is just for the dash illumination so you can see the switch at night (kind of important :-) ). Pin #3 is not used. Pin #4 wire is the relay wire that will feed through the firewall. I used the grommet hole that the vacuum hose feeds through. Connect this wire to the relay (next step). Pin #5 wire is connected to the CC master switch ground wire.

Step 3: Connecting the relay
I am assuming that all of the wires are ready to be connected to the relay at this point. If you have not wired anything else here is a quick rundown:
1. Run the power 12v wire (red) from the fuse box near the battery. Take off the cover on the fuse box and use a small screwdriver to pop up the facia over the fuses. Here you will see a bolt that you can connect the eye connector to. This way the contacts will not corrode like it would connected directly to the battery (and it looks better :-) ). I used a flex tube to protect the wire and ran it the same route as the SRS cable (yellow) on the back of the firewall. The inline fuse should have a 30 amp fuse, no smaller.
2. Run your light wires near the relay and find a suitable grounding spot for the shared ground wire.
3. The ground wire can be connected to any existing or suitable ground. There is one next to the air filter behind the bottle jack mounted inside the fender on the 96.

Now you should have 4 wires to connect to the 4 post 30 amp relay. (1) Lights (2 lead wires spliced together); (2) Ground; (3) 12v battery; (4) Switch. Now just connect to relay (I will use the numbers corresponding to the numbers above): (1) to post 87; (2) to post 86; (3) to post 30; and (4) to post 85. (the post numbers and imprinted on the bottom of the relay)

Now turn on your ignition and punch the switch... let there be light!

Enjoy your new lights!
- Corey (Discobro)
 

Kristopher March (Apexdisco)
Senior Member
Username: Apexdisco

Post Number: 299
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, February 17, 2004 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Corey!

I'm gonna give it a shot this thursday.

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