| Author |
Message |
    
Drew Morr (Morr)
| | Posted on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 01:52 pm: | 
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2 weeks ago my 95 D1 started to occationally run rough ( rough idle, popping sounds, difficult to accererate from stop) below 2000 RPM. Above 2000 RPM it ran smooth. A few days ago it became a common problem and it became even worse. I spoke with a mechanic and he suggested to start by replacing the fuel filter. Ok. I replaced it that evening and unfortunately it did not solve the problem. I ran it for a minute or so and turned it off. The next morning it wouldn't start. As I turned it over it was trying to start but it never did. I stop trying to crank it over once I saw a tremendous Puff of "smoke" come from the air filter!!!! Later that day I verified that the flow indicator on the filter was pointed the right way. All OK. Hmm. Defective filter? Doubt it...but I reinstalled the original filter anyway to see if at least it would start again....Nope...At this point when cranking the engine there is zero chance of starting. It's as if there was either no fuel or spark? at all..Hmm..Fuel Pump? With the ignition switch turned on I hear the fuel pump start and then stop. Sounds normal to me
Because I my limited mechanical knowledge thats where my fuel delivery diagnostics ended and I started looking elsewhere.
Spark: I have spark at Coil, Spark at Coil wire at the disributer cap (Ouch!.. Very goog spark!)
BUT NO spark at spark plug! The inside of the dist cap and rotor "looked" OK. I lightly filed the contact points on the cap and rotor and crossed my fingers ...Still no start.
Where do I go from here...Any idea guys??
I have also:
Replaced Spark plug wires
Checked for secure connections at coil, battery, airflow meter
Thanks in advance Drew |
Norm
| | Posted on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 09:06 pm: |
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I had this problem with my '95 some time ago. Sounds like your anti-theft system may have disabled the car, especially if the battery in your key fob is weak. Try turning the alarm off and on several times in rapid succession, either with the key fob or by locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key itself. If that doesn't work you may have to have your anti-theft system reprogrammed at the dealer.
Otherwise, sounds like a problem with the distributor cap and rotor, if not the distributor itself.
---Norm |
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 12:18 pm: |
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Not 100% sure, but if you're sure that you're getting spark I'd look to the fuel system. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. At ignition on, engine off you should be getting 34-37psi. With engine running you should be at ~30psi.
If the pressure is lower than 34 psi at ignition on, engine off most likely you have a bad fuel pump. |
Drew Morr (Morr)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 01:13 am: |
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Thanks for the info Norm (Correct with distributer prob) and Mike (pressure was good @38 PSI)
Fixed !
After $550.00 dollars at the local Rover Dealer
The main culprit - a 10 month old "non-Rover" rotor, 10 month old "non-Rover" NGK resistors, a cracked distributer cap (I didn't see a crack. Change motor oil beacuse of fuel contamination.
$200 diagnotics
$100 Plugs and install
$90 cap, rotor and adj.
$40 oil and filter
$30 pcv
$55 More checks and IACV adj.
$30 check and adjust throttle plate
the balance are misc. fee's
Basicly, it needed a tune-up according to the Dealer despite it having one from a general mechanic 10 months ago. Are D1 's typically this finnicky about after market parts?
What burns me the most is the fact that these items are things that I can do but didn't think to replace given the last tune up was less than a year ago.
But anyways...At least it's running
Drew |
bryan
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2002 - 02:53 am: |
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next time buy a beck arnley cap and rotor...less than $40 and a lifetime warranty. |
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