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Arthur
Posted on Saturday, May 25, 2002 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have a 96 Disco and have an "Air gap too big" error for Right front ABS sensor. This coincidentally occurred after my local mechanic (not LR dealer) changed front pads and repacked and adjusted front bearings.

This sensor does not seem to seat as far down as the other side. The LR manual recommends replacing the bushing and seal anytime the sensor is removed, which I have done.

Has anyone actually replaced this part? The manual says to take off the swivel pin retaining bolts and remove the brake hose bracket, then remove the bushing (but not how to remove it). Can this be replaced without removing the upper swivel pin? If so, with what tool? Can the upper swivel pin be removed and properly replaced without tearing down the entire swivel housing?

Arthur
 

Arthur
Posted on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Still looking for a response to this. Anybody??
 

bender2033
Posted on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have a 1996 disco all i did was:

0) remove front wheel (this probably isnt necessary but its easier)

1) clean the top of the brake where the sensor goes in VERY well

2) pull the sensor out with vise grips

3) clean sensor

4) push sensor back in

After a few starts (approx 7-10) the ABS is now happy.
 

Arthur
Posted on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I've already done all those suggestions. Now I want to change the bushing and seal. Hasn't anyone ever done this before on their Disco???

Please, someone with direct experience answer
 

Randall Smith
Posted on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Arthur

I don't have ABS, but have swivel pins exper.

You should be able to do whatever is needed to the swivel pin without tearing down anthing else. I would assume that once the swivel pin is removed you can press or tap the bushings out of it. If you have oil in your swivels it will start leaking out after you loosen the upper swivel pin.

I would adjust the preload on the swivel pin while you're at it. If you adjust the preload while the swivel ball is on the truck(not on a work bench) it should be set at 10 to 15 pounds of resistance(fishermans scale will work). Remove shims under the pin to increase the swivel resistance.

I don't know how to adjust the sensor gap.

Randall
 

Arthur
Posted on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the input Randal. Although I don't know where to measure the preload I'm sure I'll find out. I've ordered the bushing and seal and I'm just waiting for them to arrive via UPS before begining my adventure.

If anybody else has any other input, please let me know.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Friday, May 31, 2002 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Arthur:
Sorry it took me so long to respond to your plea, however, I'm not sure that I have to say what you want to hear.

I have recently done the swivel pin assembly and ABS sensor, but not the ABS bushing. The part you won't like is that I don't seem to have a problem with locating the ABS sensors. I have had great luck with merely wiping it with a clean rag and driving it down into the bushing, almost all of the way. Don't bottom it out on the bushing. I have heard the correct spacing decribed as being the thickness of a screwdriver blade.

As for the swivel pin disassembly/assembly, you should be able to remove the ABS bushing without completely disassembling the swivel pin. If you do disassemble the entire swivel pin, be forewarned that there are larger shims with ears that go between the swivel pin and the outside of the housing and another set of shims that go down inside the bushing itself. In addition to the shims, there is a toroidal thrust bearing that is pretty darned critical. Unlike Randall, I have better luck doing this with the swivel housing on the bench with the stub axle end on the bench and the axle housing end facing me.

Now, for the last warning-when removing the top pin, be careful as your swivel housing will want to fall toward you! Make sure you support it carefully as it is a bad thing when it falls toward you!

I know I ran you around the barn with this one, but I hope it helps.

Now, for the bad news. I have successfully done this process, but not on my personal vehicle.
My truck does not communicate with its ABS ECU, hence, I have the eternal dash light. The good news, you get used to it after awhile. When I finally got my air bag light turned off, it confused me as I no longer had two lights lit!
If you are satisfied with the handling of your truck, I would not suggest rying to reset the preload unless you are willing to do both sides concurrently, otherwise, you are almost guaranteed to have a problem with one side pulling.

To set the preload, disconnect the tie rod end and place your fish scale in the hole where the tie rod end went. Pull on the scale, and measure how much force it takes to move the swivel ball after the initial force to start is overcome. I personally have set the preload by hand without the scale. My main goal in this is getting them the same on both sides. If you set the preload too loose, you will find that you have terrible vibrations and worse handling.

good luck,
Paul
 

Arthur
Posted on Friday, May 31, 2002 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Paul

Thanks very much for your note. As long as the ABS bushing comes out of the pin from the top, I should be all set. The manual seems to indicate that is the case, but what was confusing is that it tells you to remove he swivel pin retaining bolts (not the swivel pin itself) along with the brake hose and sensor seal. the next step is remove the bushing. Of course there is no specific picture or instructions on exactly how the bushing is removed. But hey, life is and adventure.

Hopfully changing the bushing will allow the sensor to come to the proper position so that I won't get the "air gap to big" error and the ABS will work correctly again. My wife has informed me that I have until winter to resolve the problem (she drives the Disco).

Anyway, thanks again for your comments.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Posted on Monday, June 03, 2002 - 07:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The top swivel pin has two bolts which retain it to the swivel housing. Removing the two bolts allows removal of the swivel pin.

If you really need it, I can digi pic the swivel ball laying on the floor of my garage and e-mail it to you. e-mail me off line at BTLRovers(at)hotmail.com-so far no spam to this address!

As for your wife's comments, I have been driving my Disco for better than a year with the ABS lights on and the truck drives fine (40K/year minimum, almost 100/day commuting)

Paul
 

hendrik
Posted on Monday, June 03, 2002 - 08:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi arthur,

is the problem solved ?
What confused me - the mechanic has repacked the wheelbearing, not ? Sounds unlikely that this did something to the swivel housing. Could the mechanic have pulled the sensor cable and pulled it out a little. Maybe the cable fractured and gives bad contact.
Just a thought ... from someone who changed the brake light swith because he could not imagine both bulbs being bad.
If the top swivel housing bushing is bad, wouldn´t that lead to a lot of play when poking the lifted wheel at its top??


Regards,
Hendrik

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