| Author |
Message |
    
Joanna St. George (Joanna)
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 01:27 pm: | 
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I am changing my brake pads tomorrow and was wondering if there are any "special" tools I need in order to do that. Also, can I just cut my air dam off? It annoys the crap out of me. |
Eric N (Grnrvr)
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 01:52 pm: |
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Nothing special needed.. Just be careful when taking the cotter pins out as you will want to reuse them.. As for the air damn you can unbolt the lower center section and then take a dremel tool and cut the bumper end caps along the line that you can sort of see when looking at them.. I'm not sure if I'm going wheeling tomorrow or pulling my pads out as well and replacing them with organic ones. I just can't take the squeaking that mine are making any longer. |
Brian Jackson (Nerover)
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 01:59 pm: |
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Nothing really special, but you may need a c-clamp or channel locks to compress the pistons back to fit the new pads...
brian |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 02:11 pm: |
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To compress the pistons, I just reached in there with my fingers and used steady pressure to get them back in... After awhile, if your fingers hurt, you can use the handle of any coated pliers down inside the opening, and use it as a lever to push it back in. Also, might open the brake fluid reservoir's cap while you compress the pistons...
Pads alone is REAL easy... rotors, a little more involved, but not hard either.
Good luck!
-L |
Disco Dad
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 02:20 pm: |
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Leslie,
Its better to open the bleed screw when compressing the piston so as not to push the sediments (Gunk) back up into the system. |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 02:38 pm: |
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True true! I have to admit, this was the first time I'd dealt w/ disc brakes, when I changed mine... it was a learning process.
Learnin' all the time!
-L |
Wendell Cotton
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 02:47 pm: |
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Disco Dad is right. It is better to open the bleed screw when compressing the cylinder. There is all kinds of nasty stuff in there. Just tighten them back up before releasing thepressure on the tool you were using to compress the piston.
I can't remember why right now, but this is almost mandatory on ABS equiped vehicles. Probably to keep sediment out of the ABS controls.
-Wendell Cotton |
John Lee
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 03:42 pm: |
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Joanna,
If you're using Genuine Land Rover or Lockheed brake pads, they should come with new pins. |
Eric N (Grnrvr)
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 03:46 pm: |
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Depends John.. I have gotten pads from the dealer and they didn't come with anything but the pads.. They were the Lockheed ones as well and I hate them.. The squeak too much and I'm tired of putting anti seize on them every week to shut them up.. If I wanted the pins I had to order a different brake kit or just the pins by themselves. |
farrdg
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 05:10 pm: |
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You should open the bleed screw/nipple on the caliper just a little bit as you compress the cylinder to keep from pushing any sediment back into the ABS unit. The sediment particles can damage the ABS unit. Attach a clear plastic hose to the caliper bleed nipple and place it in a jar of clean fluid, this will help in keeping air out of the system. Good luck, I just did mine.
Dale |
Ron
| | Posted on Friday, February 22, 2002 - 10:08 pm: |
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Technically you don't have to open the bleed screw and for someone who is just changing bads I would say this is a potentially bad idea unless you are comfortable bleeding them. I would recommend bleeding the brakes at least every two years as LMA goes bad.
Ron |
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