| Author |
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Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 11:31 am: | 
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Just ripped off the storage compartment on the inside of the rear door. Anyone have this happen? I'd like to either fix it, or put something there that will hold MORE STUFF! Any suggestions? |
John Kruger (Johnnyk)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 11:40 am: |
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I am working on building one, I will post the pictures when it is done....
John |
Clif Ashley (Cta586)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 12:48 pm: |
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There is a guy in our club that have the whole back door as tool storage. Clips were made for everything he wanted on there. He has his tire iron, basic wrenches, hammer, can of WD-40, roll of duct tape all attached to his back door. I don't know if that is what you are interested in, this method kind of limits what you can put on there. He just used those like tool-hanger garage clips. Just a thought. |
Greg Davis
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 01:53 pm: |
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Man, I hope he has his items secured better than just clips. The idea of those items being projected forward in an accident would really scare me. I've looked into using the rear door as well, but with compartments as opposed to items being out in the open. Still in the "If I just had a little more time..." stage, though. |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 02:07 pm: |
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Wouldn't this fall into the extra weight category on the door that we try to avoid? Same problems/issues as with a hi-lift, right?
Tom |
Greg Davis
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 02:11 pm: |
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Good point, Tom. With mine, I'm going to a swing away tire carrier soon, so I won't have ANY weight on my rear door, until I load it up with junk on the inside.  |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 02:38 pm: |
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we are talking about the inside of the door.... |
Greg Davis
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 03:44 pm: |
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Yes, the inside of the door, and...? Doesn't matter if it's inside the door or outside, the latch and hinges are still supporting the weight whether opened or closed. |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 03:47 pm: |
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well Greg, we aren't talking about putting a big tool box or an extra spare on the inside of the door. |
Greg Davis
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 03:56 pm: |
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I know, but Tom made the point that any added weight could be a problem. I was restating that. You put a nice tool set along with a few other things back there and you've just added additional weight to an area that has problems with weight to begin with. |
AnonymousFU
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 04:06 pm: |
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Anon.. be more specific in your question then. You DID ask "... or put something there that will hold MORE STUFF". |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 04:06 pm: |
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A decent set of tools easily weighs 60 lbs, which is about the weight of a hi-lift. Granted the weight is a little more centered on the door, but how much could that matter?
I am with Greg. If I ever modify my garage to have a taller opening, I would put my tire on the roof and have nothing on the back.
Better visibility, no door hinge problems, and no chance of catching the tire on a ledge. I also think it looks better to boot.
Tom |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 04:18 pm: |
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ok, more specific, 1) I asked for a FIX to a broken storage compartment, or 2) something to hold more stuff. More stuff doesn't mean 60lbs. of tools, I have a tool box for that. I meant that the storage compartment broke originally because I shove too much in it, i.e. tow strap, towels, first aid kit, etc. all consisting of about 10lbs. of weight. John, thanks for the input, I will look for the pics... |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 04:27 pm: |
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Anonymous, a discussion thread is a conversation. See two posts down from you from Clif, which prompted some other questions.
Don't get all pissy to the very group you are asking for help from.
Tom |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 04:37 pm: |
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Tom, you asked me to be more specific which is what I posted. "Pissy" is something that I couldn't be with fellow Rover brothers, nor is life long enough to get "pissy" on a message board. Sorry if you took it that way... |
Don
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 05:27 pm: |
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Unless you keep your rear door open most of the time, the weight won't be on the hinges, much, it will be resting on the bottom of the door frame. |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 05:58 pm: |
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when my door is open for extended periods of time (camping), I reinforce it up with a special-order "rear tailgate support device" |
Don
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 06:16 pm: |
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Is that also known as a two x four, blue? |
Blue (Bluegill)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 06:38 pm: |
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no, I'm not that fancy...any old stick will do
I'm one of those "within reach" kind of guys - if I can't solve the problem without leaving my seat, then fuck it |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 07:04 pm: |
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also there is a leverage issue with the hi-lift being so far away from where the door bolts.
i would think a modest tool crib on the back door in the neigborhood of 30 pounds wouldn't be bad, especially since i've replaced my steel with aluminum on the back.
rd |
BMac66
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 07:10 pm: |
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Mate, my storage bins did the same thing because one of the kids stood on them. You need to remove the big door handle, opener surround plate ( one screw and slide back abit ) then the trim panel ( carefull ).
The flimsy bins screw to the flimsy panel from behind with short screws and the plastic of the bin splits open - very light duty !!! My wife didn't want an alloy checker plate panel and bin in her baby so I just used longer screws to put the bin back on - oh yeah, and threatened to strangulate the next kid who stands on the f..king bin.
Bruce. |
Greg French
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 10:08 am: |
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Mine broke completely off. Every screw hole screwed. (Sounds dirty, huh?)
Anyway, I got a new one for $10.00. Real easy to change.
1. Remove sub grille.
2. Remove screws holding sub to door. (Be careful not to break wires)
3. Remove door handle plate. (Don't worry...door handle remains in tact)
4. Use a screwdriver and CAREFULLY pry each plastic retainer out of it's hole around the door liner.
Viola! Your door panel is removed and ready to install your new one.
I was thinking of backing it with sheet metal, and using longer, heavier duty bolts to hold it in place. I would drill through the actual storage area and go all the way into the door from the outside of the bin. Does this make sense?
If it breaks again, this is what I am going to do.
You could also seal it to the door with some sort of Silicon RTV or, or caulk, or something. Drill a hole in the bottom for drainage. |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 10:24 am: |
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Greg, the piece is only $10 from the dealer?? could we have found one of the only affordable replacement parts on a Disco??
Good idea on the sheet metal reinforcement, maybe I will give that a try, thanks. |
Greg French
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 10:42 am: |
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No, no, no! Not the Stealer...I found it on the "For Sale" BB, or maybe it was LRX.com
Find someone who is parting out a disco 1, then ask them how much for the part.
I had quotes all the way from $40.00 to $10.00 from different people.
I took the $10.00. |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 10:44 am: |
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ahhhh, I thought it was too good to be true. |
Greg French
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 11:02 am: |
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"Too good to be true?"
I see it as an advantage, since the nearest dealer is 2 hrs away from me.
I get it cheaper and delivered right to my front door!
Yippee for me! |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 11:08 am: |
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Try
www.servicetune.co.uk
They do a Disco Rear Door Cover in aluminium stuff.
Cost UK £36.75 plus postage packing.
Just a thought. |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 11:11 am: |
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"too good to be true" meaning that we actually found an affordable replacement part from the dealer. |
G. Gr�ner (Germán)
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 11:54 am: |
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Nobody tryed to adjust the position of the back door in the frame?
Can I adjust the hinges position inside of the door panel? Or they are welded to the door structure?
GG |
John Kruger (Johnnyk)
| | Posted on Monday, June 17, 2002 - 09:53 am: |
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The shell is done, I should have some pictures up by the end of the week.
John |
Jim M
| | Posted on Monday, June 17, 2002 - 07:52 pm: |
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Neighbor of mine replaced the often broken plastic box with 2 standard military issue ammo boxes (I think for M-16 rounds / magazines) that he bolted to the door. Sturdy, holds few choice tools and some recovery gear and has very secure lid closure. I picked up two from local swap meet / junk sale for $5 /each. I get install info from him and post it / email to you if interested... |
Matthew aragon
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 03:47 pm: |
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You could also build a pretty kick ass sub box with either 2-8in subs or something like that. Just a food for thought anyone want some kick ass plans for one e-mail me |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 05:22 pm: |
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Looking forward to seeing those pics John .... |
marty amedeo (Marty)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 06:22 pm: |
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Why not just replace the flimsy panel with a piece of 1/4" plywood and then paint it to match the interior. This will give you a firm base to mount additional storage boxes, or as Jim said, use military ammo boxes..............
I've done this, less the ammo boxes, and have pictures in my photo gallery which shows the interior with the modifications to the rear door. |
John Kruger (Johnnyk)
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 07:58 am: |
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Here is a picture of the shell prototype. I still need to build the inserts for holding stuff, and it will be powdercoated satin black.
It is a little heavy, so I plan to build another from lighter material.
John |
Greg Davis
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 09:12 am: |
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Damn, John. That's a serious storage box. Very nice workmanship. Does or will it have a lid?Keep us posted. |
John Kruger (Johnnyk)
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 10:15 am: |
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It will mount directly to the rear door, with a few new holes drilled into the door. It will open down, and be full of stuff. I am looking to build some dividers and possibly a lid, I just need to find the time.
I had some help building it, so I can't take all the credit...
John |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Friday, June 21, 2002 - 09:28 am: |
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John,
Does it fold out to 90 degrees from the door (like a little table) then has another lid? Great job with this, wanna sell it? |
John Kruger (Johnnyk)
| | Posted on Friday, June 21, 2002 - 10:07 am: |
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It will fold out to 90 degress, yes like a little table with a lid, actually it will have multiple layers for tools, recovery gear, spares or whatever.
It is 5 inches deep (overkill?) and I may also look to put a light into it. I needed to get rid of the rear speakers, they suck anyways, drill some holes to mount it and move my spare to the roof rack to relieve the door of some weight.
I would not sell this one, it is not finished and has a few issues. I have considered building them if there is enough interest, but first I need to complete this one.
John |
nadim
| | Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2002 - 08:42 am: |
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do not put too much weight on the rear door. the thing is, if you have weight on it, then you cannot keep it open, or it will be very dangerous...
keep things tied down in serious boxes to the floor. |
John Kruger (Johnnyk)
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 07:43 am: |
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The combined weight of this box, and all of the contents, is less than my spare tire. Moving the tire to the roof rack will more than handle the weight issues. I am also working on a 'special' support (a 2x4) for use when the door is open.
I do agree with Nadim, all things in the cargo space should be tied down, that is one of the reasons I wanted to get rid of the original cubby box on the back door. |
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