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Mel A. (Krawlrovr)
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Has anybody removed both front and rear sway bars on a stock sprung Discovery 1? Has anything been terribly effected? Does the car lean a lot during corners? I would think that it wouldn't do much, since our cars are so heavy.
 

abby (Abby)
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

dear mel,

try and see for youself. it's hard to say that it leans a LOT or a LITTLE. i personally think it leans a LITTLE, but some that drive more aggressively might say it leans a LOT.

abby
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mel, I drive a DSII but when I first got it I removed the sways and the additional lean is very noticeable. Now I have RTE springs and the lean is not near as severe. I personally wouldn't remove them unless you are going to replace your springs with stiffer units.
 

Glenn Guinto (Glenn)
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mel,

I have a 99D1 with HD springs all around paired with the stock shocks for now. I took off the rear sway bar but left the front to see how it would feel like. I won't lie to you, during the first few days it was scary in the freeway at 65 + mph. But after a while, it felt "normal" again. So I thought it was gone but last month, my wife took her turn on the wheel on our way back from Maine and she was very uncomfortable with it. So I guess the sway didn't actually go away, I just got used to it. So I'd say do it and see for yourself.

To quote jedi master "HO":

"Just do it!"


-glenn
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg D.,

Did you ever extend the brake lines and replace the woodheads yet? I'm still looking for a set of abs connectors to extend my brake lines.

Greg P.
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yes. All that was done soon after the springs went in. Running Rancho's (Gasp!) front and rear along with RTE extended brake lines, and of course, extended ABS/ETC lines.
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

which ranchos did u go with? 9010 in front and 9005 in rear on mine, but I still have the sways attached. I need to get in gear with my abs/brake line extension.
 

Ron Ward (Ronward)
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 03:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I run RTE HD springs (2") with some spacers in the rear of my 1997 D1. No sway bars. I think it rides fine, a little lean in the turns, but this isn't a NASCAR setup afterall. Funny, the tech that last worked on the truck said he nearly doodoo'd his pants when he was test driving it afterwards. He was all, "man you should get those sway bars back on there, that thing is scary!!" lol

Ron Ward
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg D.,

It's okay to say "Running Rancho's (Gasp!)"...... Rancho's are Great..... Just ask Ho, he'll tell you that he runs them on his truck he just paints them yellow so his friends don't give him a hard time.
 

Mel A. (Krawlrovr)
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the replies. I took my rear sway bar off earlier today (not to hard to do) then drove around. The word that describes the handling is "different." It is something that I can get used to. The sway isn't that bad, but the jerking around of the body after a turn is horrible. I had a friend in the car, and he almost crapped his pants when I turned. My brother and dad also didn't like the handling. I think that I'll go for some sway bar disconnects to please everybody. That way I get the best of both worlds.
 

muskyman
Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 11:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

for the 18 or so bucks it costs to make awsome ones the disconects would seam pretty much a no brainer
 

Anonymous
Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 01:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Till you have to lay on your back every time you go wheeling.
 

Mike B.
Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg Davis:

Did you make your own ABS extentions or did you purchase them somewhere?

Thanks,
Mike B.
 

muskyman
Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 08:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

"Till you have to lay on your back every time you go wheeling"

anon...if you dont want to get dirty go find a new hobby....really man its wheeling
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg P., my Rancho P/N's are 9185 front and 9005 rear. John no longer supplies the above P/N for the front since he now makes an adapter to allow an eye mount for the lower front mount. My shocks came with the cross-bolt, but the holes had to be enlarged.

Mike B. I purchased the male and female connectors from a wrecked DSII. Each came with about 4" of wire still attached. I then soldered each male to each female, creating an extension that was then just plugged into my existing lines. That way I did not have to cut the factory wires. Total cost was $100.00.
 

RVR OVR (Tom)
Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Anon is probably one of those idiots who hits the trails in Khakis and an $80 Land Rover polo and bush-hat combo.

Tom
 

Andy
Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

It may be me, but when I use my CB sway bar disconnects, I do it on pavement before the trail head. Doesn't seem real smart to disconnect the sway bars in the middle of a trail, besides the flater the ground, the easier they are to use. I think you can wash mud out of those polo shirts.
Andy
 

JRoc
Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Somebody was selling disconnects, anyone know who it was? He fabbed them up himself and they were really reasonably priced.
 

RVR OVR (Tom)
Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Maybe Michael Ku?

Or try these if you want rust-proof stainless steel ones where the bushings stay put...

http://www.discoweb.org/disconnects/index.htm

Tom
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Do the quick disconnects cause any additional noise? On my DII, I had a loose ball joint bolt yesterday and it was so noisey it sounded like the damn truck was coming apart. On a DII, I can't imagine how you could get this tight enough with just pins. What are people experiencing with DII's and disconnects as I would like to keep the option on mine.

Thanks
Greg
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 09:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg, when I was running my disconnects they did make a little noise, but you mostly heard them on head-on bumps where both wheels contacted, like going up the entrance to my driveway (it's on a slope). With my lift (4.5"), I really can't tell much of a difference with my sways on or off. There is a VERY slight difference, but not enough for me to warrant constantly connecting/disconnecting. I guess for a sway bar to be effect with my amount of lift it would have to be alot stiffer than the factory one.
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg D., What setting do you run your ranchos on since you took the sways off? I still want to take mine off, but I haven't extended my brake/abs lines yet. Also, I'm being told by my LR dealer that PA law requires sway bars...... so, don't know if that is a big deal, other than at inspection time, or not.
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 09:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well, my situation is a little different. Up front, all is normal and I have mine set on two I beleive (I like a Caddy-like ride). In the rear I have custom upper and lower mounts. My shocks are angled forward at a 45degree angle. This increases the available travel to a 2:1 ratio. That is for every 2" of axle movement, you only get 1" of travel at the shock. This comes at a price, however. Because of the angle, the shocks only work at a 70% efficiency rate. I run mine at 4, which would be 2.8 for you (4 X.70). Five makes them feel just a little stiff to me, but remeber, I tend to prefer a "squishy" ride as opposed to a firm ride.
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You have medium rear springs right? I have the HD RTE's all the way around, and mine rides okay with all set on 3, but it is still a pretty stiff ride. I need to get some more weight, but I bought the springs now with the intention of adding the roof rack, sliders, rear bumper, winch, etc...

Kind of like riding on a 2x4 bolted to the axles right now.... :)
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yes, I have the 189# front and 285# rears. I tried the 300# rears, but they were a little too stiff for me. Who knows, once I get my carrier mounted with my tire, 2 fuel cans, and jack mounted I may need to go back to the 300# rears.
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Ah... I have 225 front and 300 rear... probably explains it.. I bought mine like I mentioned with the intention of adding lots of weight over time, and wanting to still be able to pull a trailer with that added weight. I should probably just air down a few pounds on the tires to compensate for now. I'm running my goodyear mtr's at the stock recomended psi posted on the door with is pretty high in the rear.
 

Greg P. (Gparrish)
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Have you decided how you are going to attach your swing away carrier yet? I've been trying to invision what you are doing, but can't seem to come up with the attachment points. I'm sure you will need to attach to the bumper, the door, and the upper rear side of the truck, right? Just curious if you've got an idea yet, and if it will use the existing mount and bumper only or a 3 point mount with new positions....
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The carrier will mount at one point on the lower corner of my rear bumper. It will also have a second mount on the door, but that will be for locating only (so it opens with the door). All the weight will be borne by the bumper mount. It will use a large machined bushing and hinge pin (early Ford kingpin) to swivel on.
 

Greg French
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

This may be a dumb question, but does disconnecting the sways reakky make that much of a difference off road?
What are the advantages?
 

RVR OVR (Tom)
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

This is generally speaking, as this is covered in many debates.

More articulation = more chance of your tires being in contact with the grokund or something on it. If the tires are on the ground rather than in the air, they can provide movement of the vehicle.

Also, more articulation can/may assist in keeping the body of the truck level rather than moving side to side in angles equal with the axles.

Tom
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Friday, June 14, 2002 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

ALOT more wheel travel. When I first got Winston, I went to see John at RTE so he could make the DSII sliders. While there we put Winston on the forklift (no comments about the Forklift Kyle). With the sway bars disconnected, I got alomost 6" of additional travel up front and about 3"-4" additional in the rear. Makes a really big difference. After that, the shocks and bushings are the biggest limiting factor.
 

Greg French
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Ok...so you get more travel. This is a good thing. Is there anything I should look out for when they are disconnected other than the body sway?
I mean, could disconnecting them cause any problems like too much travel and my driveshaft falls out or my breakline pulls off or something?
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well, I wouldn't worry about the driveline, but you do need to be weary of your brake and ABS/ETC lines. Check them out in controlled conditions before you go 'wheeling. I'd hate for you to rip one (or more) of them out!
 

John Averett
Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 02:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Greg D,
What if you disconnected your abs system all together. Would you just cut the abs line above the bushing so it would still be plugged in? The only effect this should have on the truck is no abs, correct.
Thanks, John
 

Greg Davis
Posted on Friday, June 21, 2002 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

John, you could disconnect the lines. You'll loose ABS, ETC, and your HDC. For some those things aren't crucial, for others they're very nice features to have off-road. If you do disconnect them, you need a way to seal off the ends. Otherwise you'll get dirt, mud, etc in your connectors and the system won't function when reconnected. You still need extended brake lines, so why not go ahead and do it correctly. Disconnecting those lines each time would be a pain, and if you ever forgot, it could be a very expensive mistake.

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