| Author |
Message |
    
Rob Liflander
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 08:53 pm: | 
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What kind of paint/coating would you put on a pair of Rock sliders?
What about that stuff they spray in pickup beds (Rhino-liner and the like)?
Today I took off my Rovertym sliders after 1 1/2 years of hard use (both from rock-bashing and kid-jumping). They are scraped, bashed and have some rust. Now I want to re-finish them with the most durable covering possible.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
- Rob |
Marc
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 09:05 pm: |
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Rob,
why not have them powdercoated?
-Marc |
Rob Liflander
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 09:10 pm: |
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Marc,
Sounds interesting. What kind of place would do that? Auto body shop?
Would that be tougher than Krylon paint or Rhino-liner?
- Rob |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 10:03 pm: |
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Rob,
Most aftermarket off-road parts like bumpers, sliders, etc. are powdercoated.
On something like a slider, even powdercoating will come off. That is probably why John uses (or used to use, I think he now powdercoats some stuff) some NAPA black paint on stuff. The idea is that it all will get scratched, so paint it originally with something that is very easy for somebody to touch up at home, which powdercoating is not.
Powdercoating is a baked on finish on freshly sandblasted metal.
Tom |
Palomino
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2002 - 11:46 pm: |
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I've tried several things on mine and it all scratches. I repainted my ARB brush bar with PlasticCoat spray on bed liner that I bought at discount auto and it seems to be the toughest and easiest way to protect this stuff. I will be using it on my Rock sliders as soon as I get a chance. The great thing about it is that it has a slight texture to it so if you do get scratch you can touch it up and you don't have to resand the bumper or slider.
I got it in the spray paint section at the auto store.
Also the texture gives you some grip so when you step in.
Not to mention that it should only take about 3 cans which should be around $21.
Rico |
Warren
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 01:26 am: |
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Some People find that powdercoating chips off from abuse, this is a sign of low quality powdercoats.
When re-powder coating do the following:
Have any welding or modifications desired to item whether its a bumper, slider roof rack etc.
Then Have the whole thing sandblasated with "STAR BLAST" (The finest grade of sand blasting material)
Then take it to a quality powdercoating facility.
The key here is to make sure they clean the piece before it is coated to prevent rusting then also make sure that they heat up the item before it is powdercoated making the powdercoat practically bake on to create a stronger bond with the metal. A Satin finish looks good and you can also choose from an aray of colors.
I did this to a Safari Gard Bumper that I bought used and it came out great. |
Phillip Perkinson (R0ver4x4)
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 09:35 am: |
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the Krylon touch |
Greg Davis
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 10:54 am: |
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Powdercoating is great stuff, but in a battle against rock, I think the rock will ultimately win. I've made my own bumpers and I paint them with a normal "rattle can". When they get scuffed or chipped, I simply respray. Keeps them looking new. If they were powdercoated and got chipped, you'd have a hard time matching them up. On sliders, the chance of getting chipped is VERY high. |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 11:02 am: |
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If you do powdercoat, be very sure to go from sandplast to powdercoat with little or no time in between. Just letting bare metal sit overnight causes a lot of microscopic rust to form. You won't be able to see it with the naked eye, but when your powdercoating comes off, you will see it for sure.
Tom |
Kyle Beckman (Kbeckman)
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 11:26 am: |
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I remember when I bought my sliders from RoverTym, John told me to just touch them up with Napa spray undercoating. I guess you get them re-powdercoated, and maintain them with the spray stuff. My $.02.
Kyle |
Greg Davis
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 03:52 pm: |
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Originally John's sliders came coated with the NAPA stuff. That's what mine have on them now. He's since changed, as it tends to rub off easily. Yes you can touch it up, but it also fades, as mine are a dark gray now. It would be very difficult to touch up powder coating and have it look decent. |
Palomino
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 05:42 pm: |
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The spray on truck bed liner that I have on my bumper hasn't faded at all and it is extremely durable. It also ads a texter that alows you to touch up w/o having to resand the whole thing for blending.
I will be going by the auto store tomorrow so I will look up to product code and #.
Rico |
Paul Long
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 09:07 pm: |
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I found an extremely hard black paint called Rust-Stop, mfg. by SEM available at auto paint stores. Comes in a gold quart can. This product is used on frames, dries hardest when applied thick with a brush. On the inside of a can lid where it dried, you can't scrape it off or dig into it without denting the lid. I use it to protect steam traction engines and steam locomotives that require the best protection available. The same company makes "Rust-mort" an acid based coating that turns rust into a solid black, extremely hard substance. It does not affect clean metal, but on rusty metal it completes the corrosion process and stops the rust. I also use the black rust-stop on backhoe bucket and front end loader bucket. Havn't worn it off yet, but I only use the machine for my personal "residential" home use... Harder than the original John Deere synthetic enamel. Marine epoxy paints are quite hard as well but much more costly. |
JRoc
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 10:18 pm: |
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Zero Rust
It comes in a spray can |
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