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Message |
    
Frode H�bertz Haaland (Discofrode)
| | Posted on Monday, June 17, 2002 - 03:27 am: | 
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How do you adjust the tracking of the front wheels after replacing bent track-rod? I will mark with a pen on the ball-joints to get in the visinity of correct tracking, but I don't know if the new rod is same length as old... How do you check?
Frode |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 01:54 pm: |
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The manual says to set it at 33 3/8" center to center for the cross tube.... I've done this three times now and it never comes out right.
Depending upon whether you are adjusting the cross tube or the track rod, it will be different.
For the cross tube (the front one), assemble it like the old one came out (count number of turns to remove and reinstall in like fashion) and reassemble the tube. If the steering wheel is horizontal when the wheels are straight, stop. If not, turn the tube to adjust. I have found that a single turn of the cross tube equals about 15-20' of steering wheel motion.
If you are working on the track rod (the one behind the front axle), it is somewhat more complicated, but not bad.
Again, assemble the rod as described above and install. Jack the vehicle up so that the front wheels are free. Make a vertical mark (tire crayon, or like) on the face of each tire, along with a corresponding mark on the sidewall of the tire-you now have a vertical mark on the face of the tire, and a horizontal (radial) mark on the sidewall. Turn each tire so that the mark on the sidewall is level with the face mark facing toward the front of the vehicle. Measure the distance between the two marks on the face of the tire. Now, turn the tires so that the sidewall mark is level, but the face mark is facing the rear of the truck, again, level both tires. Measure the distance between the two face marks. The desired relationship is for the front marks to be ~1 m/m wider than the rear marks to establsh the correct "Toe-Out". Do not exceed 3 m/m of toe-out.
Hope this helps.
Paul |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 02:18 pm: |
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To Paul....
are you certain the wheels need 'jacking up' to set the toe-in? I think the vehicle needs to be on its wheels! |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 03:49 pm: |
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First off, why would anyone pay any attention to someone who posts anonymously? Personally, I would discount anything said by someone who won't stand behind it. Only the police pay attention to anonymous informants.
With the vehicle on its wheels, how can you adjust the relationship of the wheels with the weight of the vehicle working against you? Also, how do you rotate the wheels to align the marks? I'd hate to try to move the vehicle back and forth to get the marks horizontal! When alignment shops do this, they have the benefit of turntables mounted on bearings and protractors mounted on those turntables.
For that matter, it would be much easier to do it without the wheels mounted, however, you'd have to do the trigonometry to compensate for the smaller diameter of the rotors versus the tires.
I would expect the rod ends to strip out before you moved the wheels. You have 5,000 pounds bearing on a small patch of rubber, resisting your efforts. OK, maybe only half of the 2800 pounds of front wheel weight.
Given the fixed nature of the steering supports on our vehicles, I would not expect a noticeable amount of deflection from jacked to on the ground.
Paul |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 04:17 pm: |
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Frode,
I think I can shorten that for you a bit 
you want 1/8" toe OUT
with the track rod loose (ie: turning easily) - measure width on rear of tires (under truck facing the rear) - then take a measurement 180 degrees around in front of tires using same locators on tread pattern you did on the back - adjust track rod until you get 1/8" toe out (ie: measurement in front being 1/8" more than that in back side of tires)
Finally - if steering wheel is then off center - adjust with the drag link.
Bill |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 04:25 pm: |
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Thanx Bill!
Being something of a perfectionist and having spent far too much time writing SOPs for the labs I've run, I get a little carried away, especially when explaining things to folks via e-mail.
Peace,
Paul |
Jo Matthews
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 06:25 pm: |
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The easiest way to set your tracking is with a piece of string. Run a length of string around your disco so that it passes directly over the centre of all four wheel flanges. You will then notice that it is touching the front and rear edges of the back wheels. Move to the front wheels and then adjust your track rod untill you have about a 1/8 of an inch distance between the back of the front wheel and the piece of string. Simple. Maybe that sounds confusing but sit down and think about it and everything will become clear. Goodluck ! |
Dee
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 18, 2002 - 06:40 pm: |
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I have heard of that method a while back. ill give that a try next time |
Mr UK
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2002 - 06:24 pm: |
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Paul your talking a load of crap! I certainly would not let you near my wheels! I drive with my wheels on the road and thats how the toe-in is checked.
Jo uses string! What rubbish. Your tyres will scrub away within hours of useage.
Toe-in can be done with a light sensor across the front wheels but best done by measurment ... with the wheels firmly on the floor!
Thank god I've been a mechanic for the past 25years. |
Dee
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2002 - 06:56 pm: |
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Jo M,
I tried the string yesterday for shits and gigles to much play in it for me to be comfortable with.
Not stealing your idea Mr UK but your light sensor got me thinking
I have been wanting a more accurate home tool for toe adjustments and I have never looked into buying one. Awhile back I picked up 4 laser pen lights for the Dog, another story. tonight ill get 2 pieces of flat bar 2 1/2 feet. Ill cut to the dia of the front tires.
I need to figure a way to mount the flat bar centered and level on the front tires. I was thinking a strap around the cir of the tire but i would need to lock the tire once the bar is level?
To hold the pens Ill weld a small tube on the ends of the flat stock so the pens can slide down and be somewhat accurate. If done correctly i belive it should give me some fairly close ref points to measure.
Any ideas????
Why? too cheep to pay to have it done |
Mr UK
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 03:57 am: |
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How I measure toe-in.
1. A piece of timber 2 inch by 1 inch [50mmx25mm] and length slightly shorter than the distance between the front wheels.
2. Use 2 lengths of steel [approx 20mm x 5mm] which are longer than the distance from the floor to the centre of wheel height. The steel becomes used as two pointers that can be positioned against the wheel rim at centre height.
3. Use large clips [UK .. bullnose clips] and clip each steel towards each end of the timber.
4. From under the car [on its wheels] and between the front wheels, set the ends of the steels to the rims at the front of the wheels. Set pointers at the wheel rim at axle height. You probably need to reposition the bullnose clips to accurately position the ends of the steel pointers.
5. Without disturbing the distance between the 'pointers', remove and carefully reposition the steel to the rear of the front wheels. The difference [ + or -] registers the difference and hence toe-in/toe-out.
It does take care when repositioning the timber and you will probably need a ruler to measure any gap between pointer and wheel rim.
If you can't understand the set-up please post a response and I will take a few digital pics and post them on this board. [Please explain how to post pictures!]
Finally. I have set toe-in/out using the above and find the method is very accurate. |
Axel Haakonsen (Axel)
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 07:15 am: |
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"Finally. I have set toe-in/out using the above and find the method is very accurate. "
I am sure it is. But you can accomplish the same thing with a tape measure as described by Bill, as long as you have a second person helping you. (Unless you have very long arms, of course )
The procedure for posting pictures are described under formatting on the left. Picture size is limited to 50k each. |
Mr UK
| | Posted on Thursday, June 20, 2002 - 05:12 pm: |
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You can use a tape measure but it stretches or curves in length. It will not be accurate to one/two millimetres. A rigid system is needed ie. as above.
PS.. thanks for method of posting photos. |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Friday, June 21, 2002 - 12:55 pm: |
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Hmmmm - never had my tape measure stretch yet!
Bill |
Mr UK
| | Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2002 - 05:57 am: |
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Hi Bill,
Or tape measures are made in Asia! |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Saturday, June 22, 2002 - 08:51 pm: |
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Solution, take it to a tire shop and get them to align the wheels, it'll be done right, quick and at little cost.
sorry this is my 2cents worth |
Scott (Scott_Bowden)
| | Posted on Monday, June 24, 2002 - 08:42 am: |
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Harbor Frieght Tools has a toe in/out gauge for about $10-15.
You put it behind the front tires and set it, then check in front of the tires. It has a spring loaded arm on a scale.
Very easy to use. |
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